leonk

As above, though if it's any consolation my son managed to set fire to his grandad's shed one Christmas. Back to the carpet, if it's really wet and it's got to the underlay is it worth lifting or getting someone to lift it so it can dry out properly?

Cut out the rusted piece, blast area to bare metal, spray with zinc weld through primer, weld in repair and paint. Then, and this is the important bit, bladder the inside with Dinitrol, Dynax or similar hoping it will seep into the tight gap between the inner and outer wing. The problem with welding a new bit in, is that the heat burns off any protective coating between the two panels. Added to this, welded steel seems to rust faster. Someone technical will tell me why hopefully. Hope that all makes sense. If you own an old JAAAAAG you have to become an expert at keeping the "patina" at bay. There are some pics in the build thread of me cutting out and repairing a rear arch section. I'd post pics but my photobucket account has been taken over by dawned ads and pop ups!

E type Jaguar, tripled in value over the last 4 years, or halved if you pull it apart and haven't got a clue how to put it back together!

Unless it involves a mountain.... Sorry Dan, couldn't resist, meant in jest, forgive me.

HAPPY BIRTHDAY!!!! Have a great day Chris. There, there, you take no notice of those nasty "ancient" comments. Has your bus pass arrived?

The problem is caused by moisture getting into the seam where it is spot welded. It is the joint between the outer and inner wheel arch. You could spray a really good penetrative cavity wax in if you remove the boot trim to gain access. Something from Dinitrol, Dynax or 3m with rust prevention properties. This will help stop moisture getting at it. Condensation is the enemy, especially given the humidity is in the high 80s at the moment. All the best sorting it.

She's not under the patio Graham? Only kidding, really glad you seem to be sorting things out amicably and get to keep the car.

It's more likely the windscreen has been replaced at some point and they've scratched through the paint getting the adhesive off, leaving bare metal. The rubber trim covers this and is fitted when they fit the screen. Probably not what you want to hear but to fix the rust properly and re paint, is a screen out job.

Is it part of the radiator support panel?

Just so I understand, we are comparing a 19 year old Slovakia model you've met on the Internet with Tracey from accounts that you got off with at the Christmas do?

"Not the monster I was planning on but it will have to do " I give up. that'll teach me trying to edit it on my phone! It keeps coming up not allowed to use that image extension

And that's why I rigged up a TV in the garage! Cheers.

Might be a bit of a distance for Elsa to travel for 2 hours work at $10 per hour. Edit. Given that the mods have deleted the spam posts cluttering up Keyser's excellent thread that preceded this, the above makes no sense at all Before you ask who on earth is " Elsa"? ............ You'll never know.

I miss being able to spray stuff in the garage now the shell is back. Fortunately the guys at the bodyshop I used were kind enough to let me use one of their booths. I took the parts, materials and my own gun. While it was really kind of them, I did feel a bit in the way and if I'm honest under pressure to do a decent job incase they took the p!ss. There is then the hassle of waiting while it baked and hardened, and worry of chipping something transporting it home.

So sorry to hear this and hope all goes well. Wishing Caroline a speedy recovery. If it's any consolation one of our subcontractors had what sounds like a similar operation and is now back at work fighting fit. All the best.

And I know it sounds obvious, but good lighting, it's no good if you can't see what you're doing. Heating as well, I've got a couple of quartz halogen panel heaters. I warm the garage up first with a gas heater/blower but turn it off while I'm painting so I've not got bits blowing on the panels. Get a big tarpaulin from Toolstation etc. only a tenner, and use that as a backdrop behind what you are spraying so paint doesn't go everywhere. You can also use it for testing the gun on while you set it up prior to painting the item.

As above, I started off with a cheap gun and compressor and lots of practice priming the e type panels with epoxy primer. Primer is pretty forgiving to learn with. For top coat the art is keeping a wet edge so it doesn't go on dry or with lots of over spray. Complex stuff like wheels can be a bit tricky. Get a good filter and moisture separator for the compressor otherwise you will end up with moisture going through your gun and paint. Make sure the compressor is big enough to supply enough air for the gun and isn't constantly running to keep up. I find a gravity fed gun much easier to work with and the better ones you can change the size of the pot or even use disposable pots ( my favourite) I'm lucky enough to have a decent gun and compressor now and I certainly notice the difference with the gun. Prep and cleanliness is everything. Buy a load of gun wash thinners and strip the gun down and clean it properly after use. Get a good respirator suitable for the type of paint you are using. 2 pack paint contents nasty isocyanates. Proper graduated mixing plastic pots are quite useful as are the free stirrers McDonald's and Costa kindly supply in vast quantities for free. Oh and get yourself a big box of disposable gloves. Have fun.

+1, looking good. Is that a bit of barrier rash on the n/s front wing since your last outing?

Happy Birthday! Have a great time.

Wow, sorry to hear this Graham. As said, hoping everything works out for you.

Its Red Paint dummy And now for the sensible reply.... I believe it is Candy Apple Red. There was a Mclaren at the paint shop that colour, veeeery nice! Looks good Buster.

That's it. Hitch Hiking through Russia and down through Syria.... No time to think about your ex or depression, just staying alive! Seriously, keep busy and all the best.

Plenty of opinions on here, don't you worry!

It's very unusual, indeed totally unheard of for old Jaaaaaags to suffer from rust so difficult to advise. If I had a rust problem with a different car, I'd probably use Dinitrol or a 3m product. If you can't stretch to £30 then slap a load of old engine oil under there and then watch it drip all over your drive. What's left will then act as sticky fly paper for road muck.

My son used to do this on a ktm 250, he used to have a great time with a decent bunch of various age guys. He joined a local club but alas clubbing of a different variety seems to have taken over recently.