JoKeR Posted April 13, 2014 Share Posted April 13, 2014 So thought I would attempt red praying my wiper blades. So I took them off. Sanded them down as best I could with the sand paper I had on a Sunday after 4pm :-( Primed (clearly didn't prepare them properly) And sprayed Matt black (can see the uneven surface underneath) So my question is.... Can this be redone so it leaves no sign of rust or bad paint work. If so what sort of sandpaper would be best as the original paint job is flaking off! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bounty Bar Kid Posted April 14, 2014 Share Posted April 14, 2014 Start with 280 then work your way up to 1400??? If 280 isn't enough then try lower. It needs to looks right at this stage not be covered up with paint later. Paint is not makeup. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paddy78 Posted April 14, 2014 Share Posted April 14, 2014 Mine are looking pretty similar to that and need doing soon. As BBK says, the paint finish will only be as good / bad as the prep work. sand them down again until the wipers are smooth and free of the corrosion. Only start painting when you are 100% satisfied with the prep. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoKeR Posted April 14, 2014 Author Share Posted April 14, 2014 Cheers people I'll give it a go ill pick up some sand paper today and propa go to town on it haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samsniss350z Posted April 15, 2014 Share Posted April 15, 2014 Mine have gone scabby in exactly the same place so this weekend they'll be coming off to be thoroughly prepped and painted, just not quite sure what colour yet though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren350 Posted April 15, 2014 Share Posted April 15, 2014 I think they look ok haha Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HAMLNJ Posted April 15, 2014 Share Posted April 15, 2014 I spend some time sanding mine, I'd start again and go through all the grades Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoKeR Posted April 16, 2014 Author Share Posted April 16, 2014 Yh I done them again but I get too impatient when waiting for the paint to dry and pick it up an ruin it lol! Took about 4-5 hours but they are done now and looking "alright" but I'm not doing it again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoKeR Posted April 16, 2014 Author Share Posted April 16, 2014 I think they look ok haha Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk I'm way too fussy haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryanmackk Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 Looks good mate, just leave it. Once they are on the car, you'll forget all about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMballistic Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 Looks good mate, just leave it. Once they are on the car, you'll forget all about it. This thread was over a year ago so I hope he's forgotten about it or got them done properly by now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spatt Posted April 24, 2015 Share Posted April 24, 2015 I remember when i joined the Forum and i used to do this all the time haha.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AliveBoy Posted April 24, 2015 Share Posted April 24, 2015 just out of interest as I'm sure this is a common issue, does anyone know the price of replacements? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stutopia Posted April 24, 2015 Share Posted April 24, 2015 just out of interest as I'm sure this is a common issue, does anyone know the price of replacements? I did enquire at my local nissan steeler before painting mine, I can't remember the exact price but it was 3 figures and enough to persuade me hammerite was the way forward 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glrnet Posted April 24, 2015 Share Posted April 24, 2015 just out of interest as I'm sure this is a common issue, does anyone know the price of replacements? I did enquire at my local nissan steeler before painting mine, I can't remember the exact price but it was 3 figures and enough to persuade me hammerite was the way forward Did mine as well, took some effort but worth it imo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted April 24, 2015 Share Posted April 24, 2015 Looks good mate, just leave it. Once they are on the car, you'll forget all about it. This thread was over a year ago so I hope he's forgotten about it or got them done properly by now. He is probably in the process of re doing them then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMballistic Posted April 24, 2015 Share Posted April 24, 2015 ^^ Taking his time then Ricky. I find the best way to tackle something like this is firstly with a small wire brush on my trusty Dremel... Get's rid of the worst of the rust for you then with ease. Then it's just a case (as BBK stated) of going through various sand paper grades from rough (280/320) to fine (800/1000/1200) for a really smooth finish. Then wash, prime, final coat, done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoKeR Posted April 24, 2015 Author Share Posted April 24, 2015 Sanded them down with wet/dry paper getting finer in grit. Then metal primer and sprayed black! Look good now sorry I forgot to post up that I done it lol it was ages ago. But yes you can fix them up and they look brand new.... p.s. I'm not still doing them haha That's what she 'Zed' :-/ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
veilside z Posted April 24, 2015 Share Posted April 24, 2015 Easier to sand back using Wet or Dry paper than actual sandpaper. I always prIme with Acid etch primer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisB Posted April 24, 2015 Share Posted April 24, 2015 Yep - Dremel, etch-weld primer, Hammerite, hang from tree to dry. Try not to drop it wet or put finger prints in it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rock_Steady Posted May 6, 2015 Share Posted May 6, 2015 is it really necessary to go through ALL the grades Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martybhoy Posted May 6, 2015 Share Posted May 6, 2015 I recently sprayed mine. I just sanded mine back with a medium and fine block. Surface came up ok then applied black paint to the troubled area. For me it's a short term fix but it's barely noticeable unless you had to point it out so I wasn't too bothered about a top job. Yours look good though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilogikal1 Posted May 6, 2015 Share Posted May 6, 2015 is it really necessary to go through ALL the grades It depends how good you want the finish, how heavy handed you are with the previous grade and how bad it is in the first place. You don't have to go through any of the grades if you're only interested in making it all the same colour again. But it is best to, to achieve the best finish though. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-Bradders- Posted May 6, 2015 Share Posted May 6, 2015 is it really necessary to go through ALL the grades It is yes, as from experience, if use say 280, sure it looks and feels smooth but then once you apply the paint, you can see all the fine scratches in the paintwork and regret not doing it properly the first time.. story of my life. lol 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rock_Steady Posted May 6, 2015 Share Posted May 6, 2015 yes of course, just using 280 and then spray is going to give you a rough finish, just wondered if you can go 280 then 600, then 1200 and possibly 1500 then spray to get the same finish? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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