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Tricky-Ricky

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About Tricky-Ricky

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    Z Veteran
  • Birthday October 2

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    Norfolk

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  1. Starting after sitting over winter

    So was there a problem and how was it fixed or did you just fit a new battery? it helps others if you can give us fix for the problem then others searching for the same kind of problem know what to try.
  2. Adjusting Clutch Pedal

    I have allways tried to have the clutch and brake pedals level if posible, but this cant allwaysbe done on all cars, some clutch pedals have a hight adjusting bolt some dont, and some use the brake light switch to achive it like the Z, but the actual clutch engaugement point is only adjustted by the clutch master cylinder to pedal adjustment bolt/nuts, and over doing the adjujstment, either way, will result in a flaky feeling pedale because of the clutch pedlehelper spriing, this can cause the pedle to feel like its sticking, however this can also be atrubuted to a bad master cylinder an is dificult to diagnose unless you have exsperience. Further to this the Z clutch is quite heavy, and will feel even heavier as the clutch plate friction material wears, and some come to grief by simply adjusting the pedal hight in the mistaken belief that it will make the clutch feel lighter, the main reason for the Z clutch being heavy is down to Nisan not getting the fulcrum position correct, this can be corrected if you know how, I did a write up on it some time ago, but would have to search for it.
  3. Starting issues and self healing?

    Have you tried a known good fully charged battery on it? sounds like it time to let a specialist look at it.
  4. Starting issues and self healing?

    Its easy to test an alternator, first check the engine off voltage with a multimeter, the voltage should be around 12,00 to 12,8v if the battery is good if any lower then it's getting near replacement, then with the engine running the voltage should read 13.8 to 14, 8 depending on electrical load, anything lower or higher and you looking at a new alternator.
  5. Starting issues and self healing?

    Sounds ECU related, although I would check that the power distribution unit has not gotten wet from a leak in the scuttle, which is a known problem with some Zs.
  6. clutch slipping only in reverse gear

    Never heard of that one, are you sure you're smelling the clutch friction material? as it sounds to me like there is a problem with reverse gear in the box.
  7. Engine Torque Dampener

    Interestingly no feedback from the OP, that video just sums up the general consensus, vibration, I certainly have never noticed any change in "getting the power down" from fitting one, and fail to see just how this could happen, other than bolting the motor to the chassis directly, and then it would be tenths of a second and totally unnoticeable, mind you it is a US review.
  8. Starting after sitting over winter

    I would just pull the EFI fuse and turn it over without starting untill you see some oil pressure, then start normally.
  9. Peak Hp/Torque and Stress on the motor

    That's odd! I have always been under the opposite impression, as per graph?
  10. VQ35DE Rev-up - Engine Ticking Noise

    Just for reference, I ran my VQ on 10w40, the actual difference in viscosity is minimal and won't make any difference other than adding a few lbs to the oil pressure, I would agree that changing to other makes or types of oil IE semi or fully synthetic cam make a difference to the sound of the motor. However excessive follower clearance can cause the noise, as can a restriction in oil flow to the cams, and another often mistaken tic noise can be attributed to the fuel pulsation damper.
  11. Starting issues and self healing?

    Sorry! quoted the wrong post, seems the OP is happy that it's fixed, although all rather confusing with details.
  12. Remap/exhaust question

    Re fitting the original cats won't make a big difference, however for MOTs it could result in the AFRs going a bit rich and pushing the limits of failure.
  13. Peak Hp/Torque and Stress on the motor

    Makes no sense to me, not sure about his maths, but to me, the motor pushing more power at lower RPM would be the less stressed due to the fact that the faster the moving parts are, the more stress they generate, both dynamically and harmonically, regardless of BHP or torque.
  14. Change of Air Intake on FI Zed

    Unless it's making a vast difference to the amount of airflow the turbo can draw IE current air box very restrictive, it shouldn't make any real difference
  15. Oil catch can reccommendations

    Fitting a catch can to the low load/idle side of the PCV system is the best option as this breathes the most oil vapour, the high load side does not, so a can is not really necessary. You need a sealed can with an inlet and outlet, and preferably internally baffled, with a sealed drain plug, as this will be under vacuum all the time so will cause running issues if there is an air leak.
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