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Tricky-Ricky

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About Tricky-Ricky

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    Z Veteran
  • Birthday October 2

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    Norfolk

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  1. Random Power Loss

    Could be a faulty yaw sensor playing up and causing the slip control to go a bit mental.
  2. PCV Delete

    I would advise having a vacuum source on the full throttle/high load side simply because it aids ring seal at high load, but its not going to do any harm if you vent to atmosphere, preferably by way of a catch can, but some use just a filter, however, I would advise caution doing this as you may fall foul of the new MOT laws that state any oil leaks/weeps will be an instant failure.
  3. PCV Delete

    Actually it is beneficial to keep a vacuum from the intake whether N/A or bosted, as it helps ring seal and helps prevent oil seal weep, the PVC system is no solely an emissions tool as most seem to believe, some engine types do produce some small amount of positive pressure due to the receptive movement, so expelling this and creating a small amount of vacuum on those that don't is a good thing. Eliminating the oil mist with a baffeled can is good but keeping the lot attached to a vacumsource is also good, nothing wrong with eliminating the low side of the PCV especially when going boosted, allthough not nessacery, but at least keep one side subject to vacume.
  4. PCV Delete

    My apologies fellas, not thinking straight, was thinking LHD which i was driving a couple of weeks ago, i will go back and amend my previous post so as not to confuse further.
  5. PCV Delete

    No, as the one-way valve will prevent any positive pressure going back into the crankcase, but it may be prudent to replace said valve just in case it's a bit weak, and obviously, the high load side breather needs blocking or relocating for the same reason otherwise you would be pressurising the crankcase.
  6. PCV Delete

    Yes it is, my mistake, i will go back and edit my previous post.
  7. PCV Delete

    The PCV system on the Z like many cars is in two stages, the first idle and low load consists of a hose from the drivers side cam cover to the plenum with a non-return valve, and since the VQ motor breathes quite a lot of oil vapor at idle and low load due to high intake vacuum, which results in oil pooling in the lower part of the plenum, this is the one to add a catch can to, but it must be a sealed unit otherwise any air leaks will cause un metered air to be drawn into the engine and weaken the mixture, The second part is on the passenger side cam cover, which is the high load side and is not subject to high vacuum, and a hose runs from the cam cover to a point on the plastic intake which is often removed when a pop-charger or different intake pipe is fitted, this is only under suction when there is enough velocity in the intake to put t under vacuum, so the pipe can just be reconnected to keep a mild vacuum on the crankcase if you want to utilise this, or run to an open catch can or even just air a filter to avoid minimal oil mist. Edited to correct my **** up.
  8. Why oh why do people do this...delete all content and not provide what the solution to the problem was! make forum searches a joke, and even worse he is a forum events organiser!
  9. Just got Stage 3 from Abbey

    34 wheel BHP from intakes only....even if it is USBHP.....
  10. Smoke on startup

    Could well just be down to it's making a bit more oil mist due to wear and because these engines create a lot of oil mist anyway with the std breather setup, the oil pools in the lower runners of the plenum and on the first start and subsequent blip of the throttle the oil gets drawn into the cylinders and burnt. A cure for this is to fit a sealed catch can to the idle/low load side of the PCV system, this will help eliminate the oil pooling by the oil mist settling out in the catch can instead of the plenum. Of course, if it is the valve stem seals this won't help, but its far easier than renewing the valve seals.
  11. Clutch feels "weird" when pushing the car..

    If only people would update these threads, it would make searching worthwhile! But anyway I would also suggest checking the clutch release bearing, could be dry or failing, these can give very odd effects at high rpm/load.
  12. Just got Stage 3 from Abbey

    The old adage lead a horse to water and blinkers comes to mind.
  13. If one lambda sensor has failed the ECUs response would be to run that bank rich by default, which would explain the sooty plugs on one bank, and could explain the hot compression as it could also cause slight bore wash thus reducing compressing on that side, however i am not sure that could also account for the smoke, a failed PCV one way valve would also usually result in the idle being high due to extra unmetered air, but it would also cause a weak mixture for the same reason.
  14. Just got Stage 3 from Abbey

    I think if you had taken the hands-on approach rather than reading the hype on various products, you may have saved yourself some money. If you had bought yourself a cheap digital electronic Temperature gauge and installed it at various parts of the intake, you would have been able to prove to yourself just what difference adding all that insulation made. I have done this on several different cars so I have experience in what works and what doesn't, so sorry to preach but sometimes you see people spend money on mods that are often a waste of time, but as they say, you have to break a few eggs to make an omelette. If you are really hung up on intake temps, why don't you just add a water injection system, this will both cool the intake and charge cool at the same time.
  15. Just got Stage 3 from Abbey

    I think your getting way too hung up over 5-10BHP which in reality you will likely never really notice, if wrapping your intake makes you feel better great! but heat soak cant really be avoided, just reduced. There will be a maximum and an average under bonnet temp that is pretty much unavoidable, during normal running, but temps will climb under both high load and low speed or stop, The air speed in your intake will be pretty cool due to the boundary layer effect and the position of you intake, which should have access to outside air, under normal running IE at speed, The boundary layer effect means that despite the intake pipe temps on the outside, the inside airflow will always be cooler due to the layer of virtually static air that acts like an inner insulation between the moving air and and pipe walls no matter what the material, so as long as the airflow speed within the pipe is high enough, the moving air will pick up very little heat. So as said before once you're in low moving traffic or stationary this is when the boundary layer effect is overcome and the airflow inside the pipes start to heat up due to the breakdown of the boundary layer, more noticeable on FI cars because of the hot air producing less boost due to hot air being less dense.
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