Jeff E

Thanks for your replies and now have an one that works with my 350Z. My earlier post of complete electric failure was down to a problem I believe /hope with the "main +ve fusible fuse link" which I have replaced. See you Tube for details.

I had similar problem but mine showed engine light and ESP/Skid icon. Test with friends meter showed crankshaft sensor which I changed. Sensor from e Bay was £35 not £100+ from Nissan. I had not noticed a particular problem but once fitted start up was quicker and smoother

thanks Rod. Based in Woodbridge Suffolk. Used to know your part of the world well. Lived Hadleigh then Latchingdon and worked for Mobil at Coryton. I shall buy the unit you have as it works with IOS not just Android. I have now made progress on my total electric but intermittent electric failure. You Tube to the rescue. It's a problem with the " main+ve battery fusible fuse link " unit. Common Nissan problem with older cars. Replacement ordered. Jeff

All the links from earlier posts to e Bay/ Amazon for OBD scanners that work come up " we have looked everywhere but can't find" or if the scanner comes up " currently unavailable ". Can someone advise me of one that works for the 350Z which is current. Trying to solve problem in my earlier post, Complete Electrical Failure

Has anyone experienced this. After 80 miles around Brands Hatch so car pretty hot ,I went to refuel, then car would not start. Nothing, no ignition lights . Checked battery connectors all ok. Tried jump start, nothing , no ignition lights all completely dead. After 15 minutes standing it fired up. Returned to circuit, 1 mile , switched off, would not restart, as before nothing. Boot lid wierdly self locked. Disconnected battery, reboot ?? After 15 minutes started. Set off home but after 60 miles as cruising along suddenly no power. Engine running but wouldn't go above 1800 rpm. Luckily got to a layby, engine running and all warning lights had come on, ABS, ECU, Traction control etc. Then it stopped and would not start. During 2 hour wait for breakdown, kept trying it, nothing. Break down chaps battery booster and it fired up. Showing 14+volts charging . He brought me home and car started. Car started this morning but to 2-3 minutes for it to show 14V+. Breakdown chap said when lights all came on usually alternator not charging but it is. Also did not tell him about my earlier problems Any ideas as daren't risk using until get sorted

Thanks , car is all standard

Has anyone experienced this. After 80 miles around Brands Hatch so car pretty hot ,I went to refuel, then car would not start. Nothing, no ignition lights . Checked battery connectors all ok. Tried jump start, nothing , no ignition lights all completely dead. After 15 minutes standing it fired up. Returned to circuit, 1 mile , switched off, would not restart, as before nothing. Boot lid wierdly self locked. Disconnected battery, reboot ?? After 15 minutes started. Set off home but after 60 miles as cruising along suddenly no power. Engine running but wouldn't go above 1800 rpm. Luckily got to a layby, engine running and all warning lights had come on, ABS, ECU, Traction control etc. Then it stopped and would not start. During 2 hour wait for breakdown, kept trying it, nothing. Break down chaps battery booster and it fired up. Showing 14+volts charging . He brought me home and car started. Car started this morning but to 2-3 minutes for it to show 14V+. Breakdown chap said when lights all came on usually alternator not charging but it is. Also did not tell him about my earlier problems Any ideas as daren't risk using until get sorted

Many Thanks ZMan, you are such as source of help for us 350Z owners. Jeff

The front Y pipe on my 2005 convertible needs replacing. Exhaust companies cannot locate a source. Ones on internet only fit coupes. They look the same as mine. What is the difference ? If just fixing brackets maybe can get fixed. If different connections then a problem. My car's exhaust is standard so no point in fitting high performance section. Any info. suggestions Jeff E

And these people take their cars on the road. God help us. If there is a case for making car maintenance by qualified mechanics compulsory, this has to be it.

I am unfortunately incapable of using the Search to find info. on the forum so please bear with me. At a track day event, after my first stint, when I restarted the car ( bit reluctant but assumed because it was hot ) the engine warning light came on and also the ESP and skid light. Coincidence or linked ? I have checked the brake fluid level, max., the brake lights work and the wheel nuts are all tight. Wheels and tyres are standard size but tyres worn and will need changing soon The car runs normally but does not start as quickly as it used to. Chap on US forum had the same happen after a track day but did not explain why or provide a solution to the problem. I completed my track evening and did not have an off which suggests the ESP/ Traction control is working !! Has it happened to any one else or suggestions for a cure. ? I have a Haynes manual but can find nothing about ESP etc.Is there anything in there ? Hoping a friend will come up with engine codes from his Torque Pro. Jeff E

Agree with Ekona's verdict. I just did the slave cylinder and it has been fine since. If you plan to do it yourself do not let the system drain when you take off the slave cylinder like I did. Nip the flexible at the bottom. There are loads of examples on here and US sites of owners spending days to get the system bled. I ended up having to pumping fluid back up through the slave cylinder whilst having a slow flow of fluid from the master so that there were no bubbles when connected the pipe to the master. Difficult to explain but requires infinite dexterity and patience. Never again.

If you search Top Gear when they have had to buy old cars they have dyno'd some of them and losses were mostly high.

Like Johnnyboy I am confused. Mine boiled during last hot Sunday. Neither fan working. Connected battery directly to fan motor terminals. Drivers side both terminals worked. Near side only one worked. Replaced nearside motor and now, on the car, nearside comes on but not drivers side. Put AC on and still only nearside works. Should OEM's both come on together ? Do I have a separate problem with drivers side fan ,(relay ?) because it works when direct to battery. HELP !

Late arrival to this thread. My car boiled up on Sunday crawling into the Helmingham Hall classic car show. Check at home and fans not working. Direct feed to fan motors and drivers side worked on both terminals but passenger side on only one of terminals worked.. Luckily sourced second hand fan locally put back together and passenger side fan works correctly, starts slow speed then up to full speed but drivers side does nothing. As a mentioned in Julie's earlier post what stops fan working if it works when connected to battery? Could it be the relay ?