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About oilman

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  1. We can’t wait to get our cars out, are you ready for this summer too?


    That important oil change just before the blue skies and dry weekends!

    Now for a limited time only, Opie Oils are running 20% OFF Castrol Edge Titanium 5w-30 LL with code EDGE20.




    Stock up now with this amazing offer at: https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-713-castrol-edge-titanium-5w-30-ll-fst-fully-synthetic-car-engine-oil.aspx?

    We looking forward to seeing you on the website soon,



  2. Hi There are a fair few I can add to that list. Engine http://www.opieoils....-653-5w-30.aspx Fuchs Pro S, Motul 300V and Red Line are the best options, followed by the Castrol Edge, Mobil ESP, Millers EE and XF, Fuchs GT1 and Shell Helix Ultra Extra. The Motul Eco-Energy, Mobil Super 3000, Shell Helix HX7 AF/AG and Fuchs XTR are good cheaper alternatives. If modified, you might need a 5w-40, but let me know the details. Oil Filters http://www.opieoils....er-2348400.aspx http://www.opieoils....lternative.aspx http://www.opieoils....oil-filter.aspx Gearbox Really, just this http://www.opieoils....4-gear-oil.aspx But, a lot of people have used 75w-80 and 75w-90 oils without issues, it depends on the driving style and climate. Diff The best option is a synthetic 75w-90, like the Silkolene Syn 5, Millers CRX NT LS, Motul Gear 300LS, Red Line 75w-90 GL5 or Gulf Competition LS. A SAE90 or 80w-90 mineral oil such as Motul 90PA, Fuchs Race Gear 90LS or Gulf Gear LS 80w-90 is a good, cheaper alternative. http://www.opieoils....-slip-diff.aspx Coolant Motul Inugel Optimal, Fuchs Fricofin Long Life and Millers Alpine Red are good options. http://www.opieoils....antifreeze.aspx Brakes/Clutch The best fluids for the brakes and clutch are the Castrol SRF, Motul RBF660 and Gulf RF1000. The Motul RBF600, Gulf RF800, Millers 300 Plus and Fuchs Pro Race are close to those, but don't have quite as high boiling points. Realistically, they are overkill for road use.The next step down (in performance terms), but still an upgrade over standard are the Gulf Racing 5.1, Motul DOT 5.1 and Castrol React Performance. Any of the other DOT4 fluids we have are fine to use as a standard choice. http://www.opieoils....utch-fluid.aspx Power Steering You need an ATF and due to the required specs I would go for either the Motul Multi ATF, Fuchs ATF4400, Gulf Multi Vehicle ATF, Castrol ATF Multi Vehicle or Millers Millermatic ATF SPIII. http://www.opieoils....c-442-atfs.aspx Cheers Tim
  3. The Advantages of Synthetic Oils over Mineral oils Extended oil drain periods Better wear protection and therefore extended engine life Most synthetics give better MPG They flow better when cold and are more thermally stable when hot Surface-active meaning a thin layer of oil on the surfaces at all times (in ester based oils) How Synthetic oils Achieve these Benefits Stable Basestocks Synthetic oils are designed from pure, uniform synthetic basestocks, they contain no contaminants or unstable molecules which are prone to thermal and oxidative break down. Because of their uniform molecular structure, synthetic lubricants operate with less internal and external friction than petroleum oils which have a non-uniform molecular structure. The result is better heat control, and less heat means less stress to the lubricant. Higher Percentage of Basestock Synthetic oils contain a higher percentage of lubricant basestock than petroleum oils do. This is because multi-viscosity oils need a great deal of pour point depressant and viscosity improvers to operate as a multigrade. The basestocks actually do most of the lubricating. More basestocks mean a longer oil life. Additives Used Up More Slowly Petroleum basestocks are much more prone to oxidation than synthetic oils. Oxidation inhibitors are needed in greater quantities in petroleum oils as they are used up more quickly. Synthetic oils do oxidize, but at a much slower rate therefore oxidation inhibiting additives are used up more slowly. Synthetic oils provide for better ring seal than petroleum oils do. This minimizes blow-by and reduces contamination by combustion by-products. As a result, corrosion inhibiting additives have less work to do and will last much longer in a synthetic oil. Excellent Heat Tolerance Synthetics are simply more tolerant to extreme heat than petroleum oils are. When heat builds up within an engine, petroleum oils quickly begin to burn off. They are more volatile. The lighter molecules within petroleum oils turn to gas and what's left are the large molecules that are harder to pump. Synthetics have far more resistance as they are more thermally stable to begin with and can take higher temperatures for longer periods without losing viscosity. Heat Reduction One of the major factors affecting engine life is component wear and/or failure, which is often the result of high temperature operation. The uniformly smooth molecular structure of synthetic oils gives them a much lower coefficient friction (they slip more easily over one another causing less friction) than petroleum oils. Less friction means less heat and heat is a major contributor to engine component wear and failure, synthetic oils significantly reduce these two detrimental effects. Since each molecule in a synthetic oil is of uniform size, each is equally likely to touch a component surface at any given time, thus moving a certain amount of heat into the oil stream and away from the component. This makes synthetic oils far superior heat transfer agents than conventional petroleum oils. Greater Film Strength Petroleum motor oils have very low film strength in comparison to synthetics. The film strength of a lubricant refers to it's ability to maintain a film of lubricant between two objects when extreme pressure and heat are applied. Synthetic oils will typically have a film strength of 5 to 10 times higher than petroleum oils of comparable viscosity. Even though heavier weight oils typically have higher film strength than lighter weight oils, an sae 30 or 40 synthetic will typically have a higher film strength than an sae 50 or sae 60 petroleum oil. A lighter grade synthetic can still maintain proper lubricity and reduce the chance of metal to metal contact. This means that you can use oils that provide far better fuel efficiency and cold weather protection without sacrificing engine protection under high temperature, high load conditions. Obviously, this is a big plus, because you can greatly reduce both cold temperature start-up wear and high temperature/high load engine wear using a low viscosity oil. Engine Deposit Reduction Petroleum oils tend to leave sludge, varnish and deposits behind after thermal and oxidative break down. They're better than they used to be, but it still occurs. Deposit build-up leads to a significant reduction in engine performance and engine life as well as increasing the chance of costly repairs. Synthetic oils have far superior thermal and oxidative stability and they leave engines virtually varnish, deposit and sludge-free. Better Cold Temperature Fluidity Synthetic oils do not contain the paraffins or other waxes which dramatically thicken petroleum oils during cold weather. As a result, they tend to flow much better during cold temperature starts and begin lubricating an engine almost immediately. This leads to significant engine wear reduction, and, therefore, longer engine life. Improved Fuel Economy Because of their uniform molecular structure, synthetic oils are tremendous friction reducers. Less friction leads to increased fuel economy and improved engine performance. This means that more energy released from the combustion process can be transferred directly to the wheels due to the lower friction. Acceleration is more responsive and more powerful, using less fuel in the process. In a petroleum oil, lighter molecules tend to boil off easily, leaving behind much heavier molecules which are difficult to pump. The engine loses more energy pumping these heavy molecules than if it were pumping lighter ones. Since synthetic oils have more uniform molecules, fewer of these molecules tend to boil off and when they do, the molecules which are left are of the same size and pumpability is not affected. Synthetics are better and in many ways, they are basically better by design as they are created by chemists in laboratories for a specific purpose, rather than being modified from something that came out of the ground to be as good as they can for a purpose. Cheers Tim
  4. Win a GoPro Hero 3 Black Edition worth £360 @ Opie Oils Enter our May competition here > > > > This competition is free to enter, no purchase necessary and will close on Midday Friday 31st May. One lucky winner will be contacted soon after! ... and don't forget we're doing a different competition each month so once you've entered the competition you may want to bookmark the page. Good luck to you all! - The team at Opie Oils P.S - If you're looking for a bargain then don't forget to check out our Current Offers Here > > > > >
  5. That Shell oil is okay and if it's not using any, then I'd stick with a 5w-30. There are some better oils than the Shell, the Redline, Motul 300V and Fuchs Pro S are top end ester based oils. http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-653-5w-30.aspx?pagenum=2 Cheers Tim
  6. Really extreme track with a massively modified car? Otherwise a 10w-50 would be fine.
  7. Semi synthetics are totally mineral based, therefore all the molecules are randomly sized and when the oil gets hot, the smaller molecules will evaporate and burn off. That is usually a large part of the oil consumption. It also means the remaining molecules are not an even mix of sizes and will not have all the properties that the oil did to start with. Synthetics are mad of uniformly sized particles and they are much less likely to evaporate and burn when hot, meaning the consumption is reduced and the oil properties remain the same for much longer. Give a 5w-30 synthetic a go next time, it doesn't need to be overly expensive (just buy when it's on offer), something like Motul X-Max or Gulf XLE and see how it goes. http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-653-5w-30.aspx Cheers Tim
  8. To be honest first service is fine, engines these days are built with such fine tolerances that the run in process is virtually non existent compared to what it used to be. Americans have a mentality of chaning oil every 50ft, so dont pay too much attention to it. America generally runs on the principle of use crap oil and change it often and if you look at the big lumbering lower power gas guzzling v8's they have used for so many years its not really a problem. 9,000 miles is fine for the oil as long as you dont take for ever to get to first service. Cheers Guy
  9. Handbooks give the minimum requirements, the least you can get away with using, so if the car is somewhere random in the world that has no top quality oils, it tells you what you can get away with using. Also, why would nissan want to recommend an oil that gives far better protection and therefore makes the engine last longer? 9000 miles is quite a long time for a mineral oil to last, especially with a track day thrown in as track use is the quickest way to break an oil down. By the time you've reached 9k, the oil is going to have lost most of it's properties. I've just had a quick look on Pistonheads and it seems that a 6-7 year old 350Z is about £10k and a new engine is £2-3k off Ebay. Isn't it best to spend a few quid extra at service time and look after the car a bit better if you want to hold on to the car a while? Especially if you use it for track days or hard use in general. We've got 15% extra off if you use the code MAYOFFER when you order at the moment, making a decent oil even cheaper
  10. In a standard to lightly modified 350Z? Then no, 10w-40 isn't really right. 5w-30 for standard or a little upgraded and 5w-40 for fairly heavy modifications or a lot of track time.
  11. 5w-30 or 5w-40 synthetic, most popular is 5w-40 as you have more choice. The best and most popular are the ester based synthetics, have a look at 5w-40 and 5w-30 ones here http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-953-ester-synthetic.aspx Cheers Guy
  12. Indeed you can. All oils will mix. Mixing good quality with poor is not good as it negates the performance of the good stuff though. Should be on 5w-40 or 5w-30 really though. Cheers Guy





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