ZMANALEX

to the forum.

I will take that as a polite no then:

Banana arm ball joints perhaps if you fitted the bushings to the old arms. Also, perhaps worn drop links. Could be numerous things but very easy to check.

Just unclips: Complete mirrors or just the mirror glass are in stock and good to go same/next day: just drop me a PM if I can help further.

Choice of brand new or preowned in stock and good to go same/next day. Just drop me a PM if I can help further.

Providing the fit is good on both then the choice would be purely personal. With the fibreglass, you would have the choice of paint finish, however nothing beats a good carbon weave IMHO. Fibreglass is usually cheaper however you would also have to factor in the prep. and painting cost.

to the forum.

Go to an alignment specialist and ask them to check over your complete suspension, steering, hubs and bearings etc.and only then. get a 4 wheel alignment done. Best avoid the fast fit tyre guys and go to a specialist who understands geometry set ups. Sounds like a lot of expensive guess work has been going on.. Where are you based?

to the forum.

Manual transmission cars with the older style three-finger Long or Borg & Beck clutch pressure plate designs, apply increasing pressure as the clutch pedal is pushed to the floor. This produces maximum forward thrust on the crankshaft while attempting to start the engine. Diaphragm pressure plates go “over centre” at full release which applies only limited forward thrust. So the technique for a car equipped with a Long or Borg & Beck clutch is merely to start the engine in neutral. This eliminates potentially excessive wear on the thrust bearing. However, the modern diaphragm type clutches which are in the 350Z do not have this issue so it is quite safe to start the engine with the clutch pedal depressed without worrying about wear on the crank half moon bearings. However, I accept that if you have no safety concerns, then I see no reason why not to carry out this mod, I get your point, but I doubt if you would experience less wear on the thrust washers with the switch being fully active than without, but whatever you are comfortable with. Good luck with your build.

Nah! you can get an early 09 plate for 35k, so perhaps double: By the time that you progress from 350 to 370 they will be even cheaper.

Cayman, good shout if you want to move to the dark side.

If you prefer to stay with Nissan then the natural progression appears to be 350 - 370 - GTR R-35 but you may have to expand the range North for the latter.

There is no extra load or premature wear on the clutch release bearing when having to press the clutch to engage the starter. There is also no forced or splash feed lubrication as the bearing is self lubricating. The OEM Koyo clutch release bearing will out last most clutch kits. The bearing only turns once the pedal is depressed, so in theory the bearing will turn slower with the switch fully working as opposed to turning faster with the switch by passed. So the choice of this mod is fully with the operator as it will not be detrimental to any other perceived mechanical issues. It is purely a safety feature which most modern manufacturers deem advantages for the safe operation of vehicle start up. I agree that start up on a ramp is a PITA, however safety again comes into the equation as it will not be the first time that I have seen a car shoot forward or even off a flat bed ramp due the technician starting the car whilst standing outside the car and not noticing that the car was in gear.

The clue is in the switch description which is "Clutch Safety Switch" However, as you are aware, providing the car is in Neutral then there should be no adverse effects. But, many cars have multiple drivers so I would consider a fully working clutch safety switch imperative and that is the advise I give to others when asked.

I always advise customers and forum members to leave the clutch pedal start, to work the way it is meant to from the factory. However the one exception to this is when the clutch start switch fails and the bypass is required as a temporary measure to get the car started.

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Parts in your links are correct. I sell the above exact same Exedy clutch kit and LUK DMF fly as a kit for £495.00

Match the fronts with the rears (Eagle F1) and then swop to the Michelin once they are all done.

to the forum Alan.

They are noisier than stock and the coolant effect is less due mainly to the construction of the fan shroud, however they do what it says on the tin and is a cost effective replacement, but is not an upgrade.

This cover was removed in 2005 from a car that I was dismantling, so HR covers were not invented back then. just another of life's many mysteries.

PM received and replied to:

Definitely came off a 2003 car with a single throttle body in 2005, before the dual throttle bodies were even thought of. Also, perfect fit on a VQ35DE engine. Out of curiosity I will try it on an HR when I am in the shop tomorrow.