ZMANALEX

NOW SOLD.

NOW SOLD.

As you have the drive shaft removed, just use a hammer and a brass drift or similar to knock out the bearing hub from the inside where you can see the splines in your last image, or both the suggestions above will also work.

Down through the large grommet on the bulkhead where the ECU wiring loom goes and then along the inner sill all the way to the rear.

Just remove the heat shield, simples.

Hundreds in stock.

The image that you have posted up is the pump for the headlight washers.

I have these in stock and good to go same/next day.

I have Eibach spacer studs and nuts in stock.

I will have a set of 19" Racing Harts 722s for sale early next week. These are mint and have seen very little use and can come with or without tyres. Notes of interest to this thread or just send me a PM.

to the forum Ross.

It is a straight forward job, however periodically you can run into issues like seized bleed screws etc. I doubt if you will get a firm price, but the garage will be able to at least give you an indication of cost.

Yes Matt in stock. PM on its way.

Give the clutch pedal fulcrum a lubrication, and also pull the boot back on the clutch fork and lub the clutch pivot fulcrum point inside the gearbox bell housing.

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Why? Preowned are only £100.00 and are in stock and good to go same/next day.

PM received and replied to @Katieallen

to the forum;

No issues with the engine cross member fixings, Periodically the 8mm bolts snap on the W bracing but these are easily drilled and retapped as they are into the bracing end brackets.

I have removed around 50 of these and have never snapped a subframe bolt.

If you go elsewhere then you run the risk of paying twice for the job. If it is only the steering wheel being off that concerns you, then waiting a week to get this fixed for free sounds like the sensible way to go. However, once you get the rear bolts fixed at a later date, the front alignment will have to be readjusted again when they are adjusting the rear. The best way forward is to sort the bolt issues and then get a full 4 wheel geometry done and make sure that they clamp the steering wheel in a straight-ahead position.

Good luck with that. Depends on how understanding they may be, however, you have to give them an opportunity to put things right for you, but they can not really do that until you fix/replace the snail cam bolts I am afraid. If you fix the bolt issue then they may not charge you for a further alignment, but they are quite within their rights to do so if they so wish. As I previously said, you have paid for a service and it was not the garages fault that the snail cam adjusters were seized.

Milwaukee for me also for professional use, love the torque/rev setting and the massive Nm. https://www.milwaukeepowertools.co.uk/milwaukee-m18onefhiwf12-901x As has been said the 3/8" is also a very tidy piece of kit as is the 100mm angle grinder. For domestic use, most of the stuff already mentioned will work well, but not a fan of Makita. Keep in mind that Ryobi is the domestic branch of Milwaukee and you also can't go wrong with deWalt.

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to the forum.