ZMANALEX

I have Eibach spacer studs and nuts in stock.

I will have a set of 19" Racing Harts 722s for sale early next week. These are mint and have seen very little use and can come with or without tyres. Notes of interest to this thread or just send me a PM.

to the forum Ross.

It is a straight forward job, however periodically you can run into issues like seized bleed screws etc. I doubt if you will get a firm price, but the garage will be able to at least give you an indication of cost.

Yes Matt in stock. PM on its way.

Give the clutch pedal fulcrum a lubrication, and also pull the boot back on the clutch fork and lub the clutch pivot fulcrum point inside the gearbox bell housing.

to the forum.

Why? Preowned are only £100.00 and are in stock and good to go same/next day.

PM received and replied to @Katieallen

to the forum;

No issues with the engine cross member fixings, Periodically the 8mm bolts snap on the W bracing but these are easily drilled and retapped as they are into the bracing end brackets.

I have removed around 50 of these and have never snapped a subframe bolt.

If you go elsewhere then you run the risk of paying twice for the job. If it is only the steering wheel being off that concerns you, then waiting a week to get this fixed for free sounds like the sensible way to go. However, once you get the rear bolts fixed at a later date, the front alignment will have to be readjusted again when they are adjusting the rear. The best way forward is to sort the bolt issues and then get a full 4 wheel geometry done and make sure that they clamp the steering wheel in a straight-ahead position.

Good luck with that. Depends on how understanding they may be, however, you have to give them an opportunity to put things right for you, but they can not really do that until you fix/replace the snail cam bolts I am afraid. If you fix the bolt issue then they may not charge you for a further alignment, but they are quite within their rights to do so if they so wish. As I previously said, you have paid for a service and it was not the garages fault that the snail cam adjusters were seized.

Milwaukee for me also for professional use, love the torque/rev setting and the massive Nm. https://www.milwaukeepowertools.co.uk/milwaukee-m18onefhiwf12-901x As has been said the 3/8" is also a very tidy piece of kit as is the 100mm angle grinder. For domestic use, most of the stuff already mentioned will work well, but not a fan of Makita. Keep in mind that Ryobi is the domestic branch of Milwaukee and you also can't go wrong with deWalt.

to the forum:

to the forum.

It should not be an issue. They would be acting unreasonably if they turn your claim down due to overnight parking issues.

Yes, still available mate. It was only removed from the car yesterday afternoon. Just drop me a PM if I can help further.

I have not watched it yet, but one of my mates was telling me today that it is a must-watch.

SOLD items list updated: Page 1:

Just removed today from a 42,000 mile 2006 350Z. This is the latest VQ35DE CD009 gearbox. This gearbox will not fit the HR (however if you require an HR gearbox I have 2 in stock at the minute.) Was running well with no whines or gearchange crunches. £1600.00 delivered to mainland UK. 3 months warranty. Just reply here or send me a pm with your note of interest.

Just removed today from a 42,000 mile 2006 350Z. Was running well with no noises or exhaust emissions. £1600.00 delivered to mainland UK. 3 months warranty. Just reply here or send me a pm with your note of interest.

I would expect you to find excessive lateral run out. You have replaced a lot of stuff including the hub so I would expect that there is some crude on one or more of the faces which may just be a flake of rust. After you have checked the runout, I would remove the new hub that you previously fitted and start the assembly all over again, making sure that all the faces are meticulously clean. If this is indeed the issue, then you will/may have to replace the rotors again. I am not a fan of the runout correction shims as I prefer to find the root cause.

Yes, I get that but did you check the lateral run out? If you have lateral run out then the new pads and rotors will fix it for a while. I always check the lateral run out every time I fit new rotors as a matter of practice. Have a look at the vid that I sent over.