ZMANALEX

The lower shim would have been bonded to the old pad, but that should work as it is held in place with the pins. Most who fit DS2500 pads just leave out the shims as they as not meant for highway use.

As well as the pins, R clips and the spring plate, all that you require with the DS2500 pads are the anti squeal shims which you will have to purchase separately if you want to fit them.

You are overthinking this. Why not just pull the in inline fuse on the purple wire and just drive the car and with the passage of time you may work out what possibly is not working.

Common practice for a temporary fix to bridge a couple of fuse points if one of them is not getting a feed.

Not the fuse boxes mate. The main fuse link is connected to the + side of the battery. Very common for this to blow if you have battery terminal issues.

Make sure that the battery is in good shape. Make sure that the battery terminals are all good. Check that you have not blown the fuse in the battery fuse link whilst you were messing with the terminals.

PM received and replied to. In stock and good to go same/next day.

Stooped Americans.

You should have used superglue as some low life will nick them.

I don't think that would be a very good or responsible idea: https://www.pressandjournal.co.uk/fp/news/highlands/2084053/coronavirus-locals-on-nc500-route-in-plea-to-potential-visitors-to-stay-away-during-outbreak/

Make doubly sure that the oil is on the max. mark after the oil change before you start logging.

just buy a couple of 5 litres of the oil of your choice and after the oil change just top up if and when needed with the remainder of the oil. As regards oil consumption, firstly determine that you do not have any external leaks by leaving a large piece of card under your car overnight. Then perform an oil consumption test by topping your oil up to the max mark and record your mileage. Check your oil periodically and top up accurately as required noting the mileage each time. 1000 miles per 1 x litre of oil is considered acceptable.

Every picture tells a story:

Brand new and fully working preowned are in stock and good to go same/next day. Just drop me a PM if I can help you further.

Aye, you have got a point.

You lightweight: This is what you require, otherwise you will be running to the off licence every 5 minutes:

Usually front suspension knocks are from the drop links or the compression rod ball joints, however there are other components that will wear and cause knocks. If the suspension has been checked properly and no play or wear was detected then I would go for the compression rod ball joints which can be diagnosed/confirmed on road test as play will not be obvious on the ramp. edit: what he has just said. ^^^^^

Not an answer to your question. however not worth the cash outlay to be perfectly honest, which you will realise once you get costings.

There is no cable on the clutch mechanism. It is a hydraulic set up so I would possibly be looking at the CSC operation. Gearbox out again I am afraid. Warranty of course: Did it get a complete clutch kit (3 piece) and a flywheel?

You will also have to make sure that the complete face of the hub is clean and also the inside face of the rotor where it marries with the hub.

In all fairness, I do not know a painter or powdercoater who sands off the face of the wheels after treatment. Unfortunately, this really is down to the car owner I am afraid, unless you specifically ask them to do it. This is a regular bone of contention in my shop when we have to spend time removing the paint/powdercoating from the wheel inner face. We use a finishing sander with 40 grit (as below) or a random orbital sander which is better than an orbital sander for this job and takes about 1 minute per wheel.

Yes, I forgot about the wheel refurb process and your guy is correct, in so much as that the paint/powdercoat should be cleaned off the inside of the wheel on the face that marries up to the hub. I always do a run out check when undertaking this type of job, however most garages do not I am afraid.

DTV will not be covered by your warranty which usually follows after a few thousand miles after installation of new pads and rotors due to fitment procedures not being followed correctly. As the damage is now done, then as previously suggested, try another proper bed in procedure, which may remove any irregular pad deposits. https://www.google.co.uk/search?source=hp&ei=7RUCXrXTCMLkgweY176ABw&q=DTV+brakes&oq=DTV+brakes&gs_l=psy-ab.12...1388.4283..6448...0.0..0.12.56.10......0....1..gws-wiz.Cro5C7gd63U&ved=0ahUKEwj1_caYtc7mAhVC8uAKHZirD3AQ4dUDCAw

DTV will probably be your issue I am afraid.

If it was me, I would fit the Stoptech lines to the 370 and bin the Hels.