ZMANALEX

I have always struggled to get the torx screws out insitu without damaging them and I have all the correct tools. Much quicker and easier just to split. if you do not want to go that route, then simply just top and tail the pad backing plate until they are a good fit in the caliper.

To get rid of the oxidisation on the caliper which causes the stainless steel slipper guide to become misaligned you will have to split the caliper to remove the torx screws that hold the slipper in place I am afraid. You will also have to top and tail the pads to make sure that they are not a tight fit within the caliper, this is why you are having binding issues. Brembo O rings are in stock if you decide to go this recommended route.

What he says ^^^^ if you are on an economy drive. I use proper tailored covers for display purposes, and for prestige high end cars, however for general purpose outside use the Halfords covers will be good and cost circa £70.00 I have about 6 of these in permanent outside use and they do a good job. Like any outside car cover, Just make sure that your car is spotless before you fit the cover and well out of any winds as the paint can easily get damaged.

I would scratch your track itch next year with what you have at the minute as one event at Bedford is not enough to make informed decisions. I would get a proper 4 wheel alignment done by a specialist who will talk through what you want to achieve and what your driving style is and see if that makes any difference. Without lowering, there will be enough adjustment on the OEM snail cams on the rear for Camber and Toe. There will also be enough adjustment on the front for Toe. You may get some benefit from adjustable fronttop arms depending on what you are trying to achieve. Decent adjustable sway bars would be a good move. If you are on a budget and not to serious then it will be a case of suck and see.

You will get these from your local Nissan dealership:

What spring washer are you referring to?

PM received and replied to. The USA and UK part # is the same.

I run SPL Solid Diff Bushings for serious track use.

Okay for road use but not for hard track.

Yes, the Eibach kit gives you the extra adjustment required when you require to dial the geometry back into spec after lowering etc. and a template is included in the kit for you to do this. If you simply require a kit to replace like for like with no cutting or drilling, then I have these in stock and good to go same/next day. Just drop me a PM if I can help further.

New OEM "W" bracings and the end kidney brackets are all in stock including the required hardware . Good to go same/next day. Just drop me a PM if I can help further.

Tuning in now:

to the forum. Where abouts are you mate? I am in the Perth area.

Yes Irfan, still got the Jag: 1989 V12, had it from new and only 12,000 miles. No Rust. This one is next in line for a small recommission and a cosmetic respray.

Always loved a T2

Congratulations, and a GREAT choice Stu, enjoy. Get some track time booked for next year and really explore the cars capabilities.

Almost there Stan, Just got the interior to finish off and the engine bay. Then a full detail which I will contract out as I do not have the required skills I am afraid. It has only done 29,000 miles and it has been mine since new, but it was getting a little bit tired so a freshen up was required as it had been in storage for the past 18 years Totally standard car except for a stainless steel exhaust and all original panels and never been tracked. It is the early model with the big turbo which was the homologation car and has the (unused) water bag in the boot and the pumps under the rear seat for the water injection I have decided to sell it and let someone else have the pleasure of driving and owning a Ford Escort Cosworth Lux. so it will probably go to auction next year. Do you recognise this one Stan? Fresh MOT very recently.

Here you go Stan:

A great programme/series, Just love it. I am in the middle of restoring a 1992 Escort Cosworth Lux so I can easily relate to this stuff.

You will probably find that the rod has come adrift from the blue plastic clip or that the clip it self is broken which is an easy fix. The tricky bit is getting the door open so you can remove the door card. https://www.wikihow.com/Use-a-Slim-Jim

As other have said, quite normal, however as @ATTAK Z has said a transmission fluid change may help. Best to use genuine Nissan fluid and a tube of gearbox Molyslip.

Preowned front shocks in stock and good to go same/next day, however very rarely do they give any problems. Have you checked the tightness of the top mount nuts/bolts and the centre nut? The usual culprits are: Compression rod ball joints Compression rod bushings Drop links. Front upright lower ball joints Top wishbone ball joints. All parts are in stock if required.

to the forum. Low mileage pre owned engines are in stock and good to go same/next day. Just drop me a PM if I can help further.

Don't waste your time, energy and money as balance and geometry adjustments will not fix your tramlining I am afraid. It will definitely be the Potenza Run Flats. You should try driving a GTR with new Run Flats: Takes circa 2000 miles for the new run flat tyres to bed in under normal driving conditions on the GTR.