ZMANALEX

Sometimes it takes a few miles for the ECU to relearn.

PM on its way matey: Other stuff that may be of interest to you: https://www.350z-uk.com/topic/125665-loadsa-parts-for-sale-picture-heavy-now-with-prices-and-detail/

Your welcome matey.

Pull the fuel pump fuse.

You would only consider changing the clutch if you find that the fly is faulty. A worn clutch would not give you the issue that you have. The crank position sensor picks up timing from the flywheel and the CPS is fitted to the outside of the engine/gearbox. This is the hydraulic tensioner that you will see through the inspection plate, and you are looking for how much the plunger is protruding from the hydraulic housing, or if the large slider/guide is damaged This is the main chain, however there are another 2 shorter chains at the top of the engine which drives the cam shafts. I would also be looking at the VVT solenoids or the split ring seals on both the front timing cover plate stubby shafts. Your issue could be numerous things and quite a bit of diagnostics may be required by a certified tech who knows his way around a 350Z to get an informed diagnoses. I would also consider getting the car hooked up to Consult and read the ECU live data and check the cam position at idle. Even low engine oil resulting in low oil pressure can throw these codes.

I think that you are on the right trail. Firstly I would check the main chain tensioner position through the inspection plate to determine how far out the hydraulic tensioner plunger is. Another thing to check are both cam shaft sensors. Also check your flywheel timing. Once you have done all the above, you should then be able to make in informed diagnosis.

Now updated with further items, more pictures with details and prices. Any questions then just fire away. Most parts are available to go same/next day. Collection welcome, following the distancing regulations. Keep safe Guys and Gals.

Yes, Brand new OEM are in stock at £225.00 delivered mate.

Looks healthy to me, but as been said, do not let your engine run low on oil.

Hi Gordon, Yes Azure bumpers are in stock, however collection only I am afraid.

to the forum Philip and good to meet you yesterday. Might be worth mentioning your requirements for offsets and deep dish for your wheels. Good luck with your search.

to the forum .

Yeah, that will get a bit of charge into it if you drive with all the electrics off, so there is not a drain. Also keep the revs up when operating the roof.

No problem, I will grab these on Monday for you.

Put the car in the sun with the roof up/closed for an hour and try again. Also is your battery good and fully charged?

Dogs breakfast springs to mind. I doubt if you will figure this out mate and as you say the wiring diagrams are not much help. If you confirm the year and model of your car then I could send you over images of the wiring from an actual 350Z with a Bose Sound System. Just tell me what pictures you require in simple terms.

HELL YES, (excuse the pun) A bit more expensive however well worth it and with no interference issues to boot.

It is not what we think but what you can/cannot see.

Check from cold (preferably left overnight) on a level surface and you will get an easy, accurate reading.

to the forum Brad.

In stock, just drop me a PM with the year and model of your car.

I would not worry to much about that rust as it appears to be superficial. The parts in question are your "W" bracing end brackets which are common to rust. I would also have a look underneath at the actual "W" bracing which also tends to rust. All parts are in stock if required.

The T2 is not a great rotor for track days, it is more a fast road rotor at best. The T3 is a far better choice for track and also good for road. There of course many other quality brands available as well like PF, AP Racing etc. if you are after a pad for track and road use then compromises will have to come into play. Much will depend on if you want initial cold bite (for road use) How much noise you can suffer How much dust you can put up with How aggressive you want the pad to be. How rotor friendly you want the pad to be. How much you want to spend. I am still a big fan of PF and Carbotech for the fronts, however you have to choose your compound carefully. You can fit a lesser pad to the rears like Hawk, Stoptech, or Brembo etc. Proper fluid and decent lines are a given, as are warm up and cool down.

Are you running Brembo calipers ? What DBA rotor are you using front/rear? What power are you putting down?

You won't get much better for the money than the Rays for track use mate. Depending on how many track days you plan to do, if might be a plan to have 2 x sets of Rays/tyres 1 x set for wet conditions and the other for slicks. I have plenty preowned slicks available at £50.00 per tyre. I also have some new Toyo R888s and Federals and Dunlops which you should consider. Let me know if I can help further. I can also advise on the pads once I get a bit more info on what you are looking for.