Rob332

As above, alex doesn't have any in at the moment 😔

Hi guys, On the lookout for a fuel tank for my DE 350z due to the current one leaking. Literally none on E Bay and looking like zmanalex doesn't have any left. Will pay for postage to West yorkshire if not local. Cheers Rob

Hi guys, My rear adjustment bolts are in need of being replaced. Is the Eibach rear alignment bolt kit a straight fit, or are any modifications required to get them to fit ? http://www.clarkmotorsport.co.uk/parts/Eibach-Rear-Camber-and-Toe-Bolt-Kit/5.72055K I've read that with some bolt kits the holes need elongating. I just need a kit that will replace the oem bolts. Much appreciated

Faulty gauge ? Wiring fault ? Has the gauge even been checked ? Not 100% sure as can vary on certain cars, but if you unplug the connector that meets the sender, get a piece of wire and bridge the terminals on the gauge side. The gauge should go up to max then back to zero when the wire is removed. If it doesn't then you probably have a faulty gauge. can't understand why they wouldn't want to remove the new sender to do a pressure test if that and the sump is new.....unless they messed it up and just siliconed it in.

Based on 65k: CAP retail - £13,595 Glass's Guide Retail transacted - £11,780. These should give you some numbers to work with. I don't really think you would get £15k, but then again I don't know what the mileage is. Remember that the insurer will only pay the market value of your car, not what you are replacing it with. Negotiation is what it's all about but remember be prepared to back up any valuation you put on the car with ' like for like' market examples ( Auto Trader ) or Guide figures.

Hi mate, I am an insurance assessor so deal with this on a daily basis. If I were to give you some advice. Unless the car has sentimental value, if the insurer decides it's a total loss then the best option is to accept this and await the settlement offer. It really depends on the insurer as to how much they initially offer. some are more fairer than others. If you can, try and look at the industry standard guide figures. CAP, Glass's and Parkers. You want to be looking at the retail figure for CAP and the Retail transacted on Glass'. Make sure you adjust for the mileage on the car. If you take the offer to retain the salvage then they will categorise the car. This will be either an S or an N depending on if there is damage to the inner wings or chassis legs. S - structural damage N - non structural. The problem with salvage retention is that the category is input on a system call MIAFTR which will put a marker on HPI showing the salvage category that was applied. It will affect the value and puts a lot of potential buyers away should you want to sell it in the future. All the best Rob

Don't get kicked in the knackers when they call you to discuss the settlement. Glass' , CAP and Parkers are what you need to take a look at. All of these are industry standard guides. Auto Trader is not, which is what they may look at. Make sure you are looking at the retail / retail transacted figures, not mid book. In terms of fair settlement offers some insurers are better than others, but the FOS is there to help you if you find they are being unreasonable with their offer. All the best.

Was coolant/ steam escaping from the cap on the top of the radiator ? Always start with the easy fix first. A cooling system is pressurised which raises the boiling point. The cap keeps the system pressurised and if the seal has gone on the cap the system loses pressure and the coolant over heats. I would check this first. If no joy, then get the system pressure tested for leaks. If nothing found, then flush the system/ check for a blocked radiator. If you are not mechanically minded then best to take to a garage for diagnosis. All the best dude.

This sounds like an issue with the viscous couplings in your differential. It's like the diff is locking too easily, which would cause the oversteer. If everything else has been checked like arbs, droplinks, struts etc this would be the next area I would be looking at. Or it could even be the quality of the lubricating oil in it. Could be overheating/tightening up due to poor quality oil or lack of. Might be worth changing the oil if you have exhausted all other options.

I'll be looking for a set of standard 18" rays shortly. Just curious if anyone has any and at what price ? I don't need the tyres as I have just replaced mine so will just swap over. Cheers guys.

I'm not familiar with the MOT regs in Finland, but in relation to reading the fault codes, I have an import and I manage to read and clear mine. I use one of these : https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WiFi-Bluetooth-ELM327-OBDII-Car-Scanner-Android-iOS-iPhone-Fault-Code-Reader-UK/302691253235?hash=item4679cdfbf3:g:9L4AAOSwk1haKLLj And then I pair it up to the Bluetooth on my phone using an Android app called car gauge pro : https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=Scantech.CarGaugePro&hl=en_GB Works fine

Have you taken the N/S/R wheel off and checked the weather shield/ back plate ? It's a stab in the dark, but might be the weather shield catching on the brake disc. Or some corrosion catching it when the disc is turning. Could also be the brake shoes though. You could back them off/ de adjust them and see if the noise goes away. Or remove the disc and visually inspect.

good result

I pulled all the coil packs one by one to check them. I did not find anything obvious, however the fault never came back. Must have been a poor connection for me.

I wouldn't suggest it would be an easy fix if lack of oil has caused the fault. You would be looking at an overhaul or new gearbox based on the symptoms described by the op.