ZMANALEX

You lightweight: This is what you require, otherwise you will be running to the off licence every 5 minutes:

Usually front suspension knocks are from the drop links or the compression rod ball joints, however there are other components that will wear and cause knocks. If the suspension has been checked properly and no play or wear was detected then I would go for the compression rod ball joints which can be diagnosed/confirmed on road test as play will not be obvious on the ramp. edit: what he has just said. ^^^^^

Not an answer to your question. however not worth the cash outlay to be perfectly honest, which you will realise once you get costings.

There is no cable on the clutch mechanism. It is a hydraulic set up so I would possibly be looking at the CSC operation. Gearbox out again I am afraid. Warranty of course: Did it get a complete clutch kit (3 piece) and a flywheel?

You will also have to make sure that the complete face of the hub is clean and also the inside face of the rotor where it marries with the hub.

In all fairness, I do not know a painter or powdercoater who sands off the face of the wheels after treatment. Unfortunately, this really is down to the car owner I am afraid, unless you specifically ask them to do it. This is a regular bone of contention in my shop when we have to spend time removing the paint/powdercoating from the wheel inner face. We use a finishing sander with 40 grit (as below) or a random orbital sander which is better than an orbital sander for this job and takes about 1 minute per wheel.

Yes, I forgot about the wheel refurb process and your guy is correct, in so much as that the paint/powdercoat should be cleaned off the inside of the wheel on the face that marries up to the hub. I always do a run out check when undertaking this type of job, however most garages do not I am afraid.

DTV will not be covered by your warranty which usually follows after a few thousand miles after installation of new pads and rotors due to fitment procedures not being followed correctly. As the damage is now done, then as previously suggested, try another proper bed in procedure, which may remove any irregular pad deposits. https://www.google.co.uk/search?source=hp&ei=7RUCXrXTCMLkgweY176ABw&q=DTV+brakes&oq=DTV+brakes&gs_l=psy-ab.12...1388.4283..6448...0.0..0.12.56.10......0....1..gws-wiz.Cro5C7gd63U&ved=0ahUKEwj1_caYtc7mAhVC8uAKHZirD3AQ4dUDCAw

DTV will probably be your issue I am afraid.

If it was me, I would fit the Stoptech lines to the 370 and bin the Hels.

Only if the recommended temperature is exceeded whilst in the oven during the process.

A little bit of heat on the fixed nut may be enough to slacken the bolt, however the bolt may be seized on the bush sleeve, which you can easily replace if you damage it during the dismantling. You have to remove the drive shaft to remove the knuckle, but that is not a big job. Just remove the split pin and loosen off the drive shaft nut before you get the car in the air. If you do not have a very powerful impact wrench and if the nut is very tight, use a 1x metre heavy duty breaker bar and a piece of scaffolding pipe if extra tight. It is a normal R/H thread.

The only difference on the service items are the air filters and spark plugs which are good for 50,000 miles. However as the guys have said previously, an image of the engine will provide you with a definitive answer to your question.

to the forum.

I replied by PM on Monday in answer to your PM with a price delivered.

to the forum: Best Colour: Enjoy:

Easy to replace insitu, however as Ian has said, not much room. Removing the plenum makes this job so much easier, with no requirement for a blood transfusion during/after.

The Pathfinder mod worked well for me and helped with keeping the coolant temps down on track. I wanted to experiment with the HR mod and this was fitted when the engine was out for other stuff, and that also worked well. What one is better would be hard to tell, however I think that my temps came down a further few degrees with the HR mod. Remember that my 350 is now close to 800 bhp with similar torque and generates extreme heat so every 1 degree is a prisoner. The stock rear pipe is all that you require for a sub 400 bhp 350.

I did the Pathfinder mod to my 350 track car around 12 years ago, easy to install, however the parts are not cheap. I have only sold a handful of these. I now sell/install the HR option for the DE which works well for FI and track cars.

PM received and replied to: Your car is an HR which only has one belt which is self tensioning.

Fit new belts and adjust to manufacturer's spec. Check all the pulleys when you have the belts off. New uprated belts are in stock and good to go same/next day. Just drop me a PM if I can help further: @ZMANALEX

Firstly I would test the front O2 sensors and if faulty just replace. Is your car wide band or narrow band? Genuine Nissan OEM Sensors are in stock if required and good to go same/next day.

PM received and replied to:

Complete assembly only I am afraid which is not expensive: In stock and good to go same/next day. Just drop me a PM if I can help you any further. @ZMANALEX