ZMANALEX

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Any idea what material is best to use for the blanking plate? Mild steel or Aluminium would both be fine. I would guess that the mirrors are extremely light and they come with mounting plates which will facilitate fitting to the blanking panels.

Sounds like gearbox 1st motion shaft bearing. Won't be clutch release bearing as that is not turning with foot off the clutch. Leave at the moment and let it develop before considering pulling the box. Alex.

Fabricating and fitting a blanking plate is quite simple and would be the neatest and cheapest option.

Spiral cables / steering angle sensors are in stock and good to go same/next day. Just drop me a PM if I can help further. Alex.

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Here you go: From the workshop manual for a N/A car. NOTE IT IS CRITICAL THAT THE FOLLOWING PROCEDURE BE FOLLOWED EXACTLY! IT IS TIME CONSUMING, HOWEVER, ESSENTIAL! 3.1 Remove bleader in the stock upper heater hose. 3.2 Fill radiator and coolant recovery reservoir with anti freeze coolant. It should take 10 quarts, including reservoir. It is important that the coolant is poured through the radiator filler neck at less than 1.5 quarts per minute, in order to allow air in the system to escape. 3.3 When the engine coolant overflows the at the bleader, re-install the bleader 3.4 Warm the engine to the normal operating temperature with the radiator cap installed. 3.5 Run the engine at 3,000 RPM for 10 seconds and then allow it to return to idle speed. § Repeat this action three times. 3.6 Stop engine and allow coolant temperature to drop below 120°F. Use a remote electric fan to assist in this process. If necessary, refill the radiator and reservoir up to the filler neck. 3.7 Repeat steps 3.3 to 3.6 at least two more times (it may take more) with the radiator cap installed, until the engine coolant level no longer drops. 3.8 Check the cooling system for leaks with the engine running. 3.9 Fully warm the engine and listen for the sound of coolant flow through the heater unit, inside the car; while running the engine from idle to 3,000 RPM, with the heater control set at several positions between cool and warm. Repeat this action three times 3.10 If any sound is heard, continue to bleed excess air from the cooling system, by repeating steps 3.3 to 3.6, until the coolant level no longer drops.

There is a knack to the bleeding. I think that there may be a "how to" in the guides section.

The porting is only to allow more airflow to the intercooler. There is plenty space to sandwich everything in. Radiator: Engine Oil Cooler: PAS Oil Cooler: Intercooler: Fans.

You should be able to squeeze everything in with the oem crash bar fitted. I ran for a while without one but decided I wanted a bit more front end protection.

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Should just pop off once all the bolts are removed, however may require very, very, gentle persuasion to break the seal. My guess is that you have missed a bolt.

Battery connections or engine grounding leads. Starter connections. Alternator issues. Faulty new battery. etc etc etc.

Get all from the Traders on here or gaskets and seals direct from Nissan and the bearings from here: http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/index.php?cPath=4747_4514&gclid=CO-t_77r7coCFTAz0wodVqUHwg

So just to be clear for others who may have the same issue can you confirm that the issue was the fly or CPS or both ?

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Don't confuse your self with the ifs, buts and maybes Check from cold (overnight) on a level surface and you will get a true reading: Simples.

The above is an after market front wing and would require the oblong hole cut out for the side indicator repeater lamp.

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Yeah, just phone Nissan or get a pre owned wing off a UK car from a breaker.

Yes, all UK model front wings have the cut out.

Common issue, just cut a section out for the side indicator.

This is the way to go as you have to many questions. There are a few in your area, however if you are ever up in Perth, then swing by and I will take you out in the 666bhp 350. which has a twin plate ATS Carbonetic fitted.

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