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evest's Achievements

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  1. Still available now £75 plus postage or free collection 👍
  2. Still available and now £300 collected
  3. I haven't mate, but may do soon in case it is indeed a wonky MAF causing these issues.... I think the codes may be to do with engine load etc... so an incorrect airflow reading at the MAF might explain it, plus the lean report from bank 1.
  4. Hi all, So, I've been chasing a problem on my car for a while now which seems to come and go a bit. Rough idle, mainly when warmed up, which sometimes stalls the car when decelerating to a stop. Codes P1273, 1283, 1281 have cropped up at different times, but it isn't the O2 sensors themselves as they were replaced with brand new OEM ones. I thought I had eventually solved it, all explained in an earlier thread. But I guess I haven't... My only remaining thoughts now are that it is being caused by a short in the harness somewhere. The one bit I never did answer and which consistently appears when I have this issue is pictured below. Does anybody know what this information means or how/where to decode it? I've spent a fair bit of time on the internet trying to figure it out, but no joy. Is the writing on the wall and I simply need to have it plugged into the mothership at Nissan? Cheers! Last time is was: TID:$4e CID:$0f Max: 33,067 Test result value: 33,267 The reading below seems to be a similar issue against but against different sensor.
  5. As per the title. The tube is in excellent condition, couple of scratches which you won't see when installed. Please note: The coupling sleeve is silicone tubing. TBH this was was mainly to match my engine bay colour scheme, but it is also more robust than the original rubber piece which was a bit flimsy in my opinion. You'll need 2 x large hose clips (see engine bay pic), about 3.5" Very cheap from Halfords etc... The condition of the cone is as pictured. It works fine bit the rubber is starting to perish so you may want to consider adding a new cone at some point. But still works out a lot cheaper than a complete brand new intake. £75 plus postage, or free collection. Location: CW3 near Crewe Thanks for looking 👍
  6. Price now lowered to £350 - has a nice ring to it! Thanks for looking
  7. Hi mate, thanks for looking. The meshes are fine, no leaks that I'm aware of and no rust. I'm away at the moment but can take some close up pics at weekend. I'd like to let the ad run a bit longer to see if there's any interest in the complete system, but if not I'll come back to you. Otherwise it's a little harder to sell the mid-pipe and back box as it won't fit a stock y-pipe. Cheers 👍
  8. Hello all, Here for sale is my Cobra Sport UK exhaust - this is the resonated version with TP38 style tips. Complete cat-back system, so includes back box, mid-pipe and Y-pipe. These go for about £900-1000, these days. First fitted in 2010 and taken off the car in 2015 as I chose to fit an Invidia. So it has sat in my garage for a while but it's in good condition, but does have a weld repair to one of the tail pipes into the back box (pictured below - not the prettiest weld but it's good and strong and not visible when fitted on the car). The flexis are in very good condition. The black stuff on the mid pipe is just a melted carrier bag or something, couldn't get it off! Pictures below showing current condition. There is also a youtube link, this is my own car just after the exhaust was first installed at Cobra in Sheffield, so you can hear what is sounds like (with standard cats). £300 Location: CW3 (near Crewe, Cheshire). Collection only due to size, but willing to meet up within a reasonable distance. Finally - to fit this you will need to supply your own gaskets. You will need 2 x 2.5" diameter (Y-pipe to cats), and 2 x 3" diameter (each end of mid-pipe). You might also need new exhausts nuts and bolts if your old ones are too rusty to re-use. All the best
  9. A final update to this thread - hopefully it might help somebody else who is having repeat trouble codes. So having replaced the upstream O2 Sensors and the MAF, the fault code P1283 and associated Mode $6 fault came back yet again; although the car was driving very well and without the symptoms of poor idle and stalling when coming to a halt. So it appeared the actual fault had been repaired by the car was still not happy. Very frustrating, but I decided to search the Nissan Technical Bulletins, and I found this: Subject: SB "Nissan"; Must Clear Self Learning After Repairing DTC P01273/P1274/P1283Summary of NTB04126: IF YOU CONFIRM: A MIL "ON" with any of the following DTC(s) stored: * P1273 / P1283 (A/F Sensor Bank-1 / 2 -Lean Monitor) * P1274 / P1284 (A/F Sensor Bank-1 / 2 -Rich Monitor) ACTIONS: 1. Repair the vehicle as necessary. * Refer to ASISTfor diagnostic and repair information. 2. Clear the engine ECU Self-Learning. IMPORTANT: If Self-Learning Is Not Cleared: * The DTC may be stored again; even if no malfunction exists. * This could result in the customer returning with the same incident ("come-back" repair). See this bulletin for further detail. The Nissan Technical Service Bulletins can be found here: https://www.nissan-techinfo.com/TSB/TSB_xml/nmIndex.aspx?tsbType=TSB (Note - you can only see the summary of the bulletin unless you pay a subscription to see the whole thing.) The reset procedure in question is NOT a simple ECU reset. It is the "mixture ratio self-learning" reset, which I understand resets all the stored fuel trims. You can find it here: https://www.nissanhelp.com/diy/z/projects/nissan_z_clear_self_learning.php In short, you unplug the MAF, start the engine for a few seconds - which throws a MAF DTC P0102. Plug MAF back in, clear the fault codes and let it idle for 10 minutes (with optional coffee). After this, it should be fine. In my case, with the MAF unplugged the slip/TCS and ABS lights came on too, but after turning off and on again, they did not return. Since doing this, I have driven the car a number of times and my symptoms and fault codes have not returned and the car is driving very well. The Mode $6 fault indication has not returned either - I never found out what the value meant but it seems to be staying within the approved limits. So if you have P1273, P1283, P1274, P1284, make sure you do the procedure above after you have fixed the underlying fault. All the best
  10. 12.5 years, 170k miles. Love it, keeping it.
  11. Well I think I have now resolved this - replaced MAF. My other car is a Nissan Juke (aka the dogmobile), which uses the same MAF as a zed, so I swapped them over. No more stalling and idle is very smooth, the petrol smell on start up also seems to have gone away. After a few journeys, the DTC (P1283) has not returned and the Mode 6 issue above is now a pass every time. I will keep monitoring it, but clearly looks like MAF was at fault and messing up the fuel ratio. The car did not detect a faulty MAF though, and the fault was manifest as an upstream O2 sensor issue. I've yet to test the old MAF in the Juke, but any problems there will definitely confirm it as the culprit. Like I say, all seems good now, and with 170K on the clock, the car is running great!
  12. Thanks mate, I'll look into it. The old spark plugs had a lot of carbon build up on them which also suggests I have probably been running rich.
  13. Ps - if it is a knackered MAF: Could this translate into improper O2 sensor readings, throwing the fault codes indicated? I'd have thought MAF would have it's own fault code though. Would the rough idle problem be apparent on cold start? I've had a dead battery which has been jump started and now charged up through driving. Have the few good runs been a result of the car running from default map, after a period of which the problem returns? Sorry for all the questions, just trying to figure this thing out!
  14. Hi all, So really stuck here, I have a persistent problem - I may need to bite the bullet and head off for a full diagnostic, but hoping somebody can help me. 2003 UK Zed, so DE non rev-up, about 170K miles Car was basically starting ok and driving ok - but after warming up (and I think completing its various 'loops'??) the car would struggle when slowing to a halt at traffic lights etc, sometimes stalling. When warm it would also idle rough and sometimes stall - but not always. Fault codes indicted problem with upstream O2 sensors, which I have replaced both with new OEM ones. I have also just put in new spark plugs and having stripped down to removing the fuel rails and intake manifold, the fuel injectors all seem ok. I believe the MAF is ok but not sure how to verify this. No obvious sign of air leaks or fuel leaks, but car can smell a bit petrol-y at start up (more than it ever did before). I've reset ECU and done the various other idle and throttle learning procedures. After a few short drives without issue, I today did a slightly longer one and the problem has come back - fault codes are now pending as: P1281 P1283 and Mode 6: TID:$4e CID:$0f Max: 33,067 Test result value: 33,267 FAIL anybody know what this mode 6 code means? I can't see me being unlucky enough to have installed a duff new O2 sensor - could it be a wiring problem further along? Any other ideas as to this problem? Really stuck!
  15. Well, I sourced some new spacers from Horsham Developments (Cheers Jez). However... ...on removing the upper and lower plenum, and the intake manifold, guess what I found nestled in the 'V'.... its managed a couple of thousand miles under there!
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