ZMANALEX

Depending on the exact position where the roof stops, will determine what procedure you have to follow. Firstly lubricate the 5th bow lock assembly with Genuine Nissan Window Regulator Grease. If this does not fix your issue, twist the auto-closure wire back into the closure motor. Lastly if still not working, remove and refurb the 5th bow motor.

There is a fix for this, without replacing the motor.

That should be what you are looking for, so just quote that to your Nissan parts department. And check that it fits all locking nuts before you store it in the boot.

The part number that you have provided is for the complete wheel nut locking kit and will bare no resemblance to the locking socket. Have a look in the car for a small plastic bag with the locking socket part number on it. Failing that, head to Nissan as most dealerships keep a master socket set. Last resort, buy an emergency locking nut removal kit, and get the old locking nuts off and then buy another set of new locking nuts

Try harder.

Go back to the dealer as it is there responsibility.

But not a forged stronger option for reasonable money.

Tyre Pressures, Low or wrong PAS fluid Universal knuckle on steering column seized or sticking PAS pump. Steering rack. All parts are in stock at the moment, and good to go same/next day. Just drop me a PM if I can help further. Alex.

Providing it fits in the bottle and the fittings are the same, then all should be good.

Low Octane Fuel ? Surely not.

Quite a bit to travel for a 10 bhp gain.

to the forum.

Get it checked out, probably what has been said above, however, better safe than sorry.

Clear the codes as some may be archived. When EML comes back on post the new codes up here. I should have most parts in stock to fix your issue. Alex.

Result, Top Man:

to the forum.

Defi, preferably Defi Link System. Probably got pre owned in stock.

How do I go about getting it all in one topic? See Girnet's post above #2

What Graham has said, impossible to give informed advice when you keep starting a new thread with all your ongoing issues. I think that I asked the question in one of your other threads if you had fitted the fly properly, can't remember seeing a reply. Best to get your threads merged and highlight the fix to each of your issues. Your vid smacks of fuel cut off as you are revving whilst stationery or could be the fly issue or sensor issue.

Yes as long as you have a HR bonnet.

Are the caliper pistons definitely free ? Did you have the pistons out as a ring of rust can form behind the piston ?

Thanks mate. I'll check the o2 5 wire is used (I think that is correct) I thought it could be cam sensor. I'll check that tomorrow. If you think of anything else let me know. As per my last post: Crank Sensor and Flywheel And retrace your steps and check all connections.

The JDM car usually have 4 wire narrow band sensors and the UK car has 5 wire wideband. You will require the latter if you have a UK car. So, if not something stupid, check all you connections and pay particular attention to the crank and cam sensors. Edit: Did you fit the fly in the correct position to the crank pin.

What front O2 Lambda sensors did you use ?

If you want to rebuild your box then simply just strip it and replace the parts that are causing the issue. There are to many parts that give issue and providing a rebuild kit to cover all eventualities would not be cost effective.