ZMANALEX

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Swop out the slave cyl and fit a braided hose, some high temperature fluid, get all the air out the system and you should be sorted.

Kinda fond of these myself. Enjoy.

Best to take it back to the supplying dealer.

Rubbish video, you will have to do much better than that for an informed diagnoses. Best to drop in to a 350Z specialists for there input.

Definitely sounds like clutch slip, so probably time for a new clutch kit and fly.

You should be able to jam it from turning if you are handy with the tools or just get the angle grinder out. You can drive cautiously with out the links but best not to, until you have the links back on.

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CMS: Clark Motorsport

Refer to my posts #16 and #20

Plastic, which in my book is Polyurethane is the way to go if it is a good fit. FRP is exactly what it says on the tin, and is not Plastic/Polurethane.

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What is the tensile strength of the bolts please ?

For the TT 350 and the R35 for heavy track use, I use Tesco Momentum 99 and had absolutely no issues. I also use Shell V-Power Nitro+ However big price difference at the moment: 102.9 for Tesco and 117.9 for Shell.

So just to be clear, it is the GT4 with the rev up engine ????

Is the car still under warranty ?

Thanks mate, your referral is appreciated. Pre owned front right Brembos are in stock at the moment Alex.

So lets get this right: You have been driving about for the last 3 weeks with the above mentioned lights on ? The sensor for PO345 is Bank 2, so my next question is, have Nissan changed the correct sensor ? What happens when you press the ESP button ? Regular unleaded is never a good plan, however could have been worse if she had put Diesel in it.

I always wondered, if there is no obvious play / wear in the bush itself from applying a pry bar, how does one conclude whether it's the bush or the ball joint? If it is compression rod bushing failure then that will be obvious and the compression rod will be bouncing off the chassis bracing. There will be no obvious visual failure of the compression rod ball joint if it is worn and knocking.

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Swop out your fluid for starters. Decent fluid, lines and pads are critical. Expensive rotors and BBK should really not be required for your applications. Proper bed in + warm up laps + cool down laps is a given every time you go on / off track. It is amazing how, when you feel the pedal getting a bit soft, say after 8 laps, that a couple of proper cool down laps bring the temps right back into check. However if you are expecting endurance type of brake efficiency then you will have to think again.

Cap is a good benchmark for residuals. G.G also show similar gains. Nice to see values nice and steady with a bit of financial appreciation.

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