ZMANALEX

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In answer to your question, probably a maximum of 10 bhp.

Best to take the engine and the box out as one through the front with bumper etc removed. Leave the engine loom connected to the engine and disconnect from the ECU and pull through the bulkhead / firewall. However if you are only fitting a clutch and headers then this will be doable with the engine insitu.

2 hours once you know your way around.

Refer to my previous post #6 I did listen mate, it wasn't the part number I gave it was the keycode that they needed and what I gave them. The key itself would appear to be the right one, ie: the pattern shape. It's just that the bolts on the car seem ever so slightly bigger which won't allow the key to sit on it. I gave you more than one option mate, so move on to plan 2

Speak to Car Hood Warehouse for an informed fix. Ask for Nick. DO NOT speak withTina as she is a div.

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Here you go: From the workshop manual for a N/A car. NOTE IT IS CRITICAL THAT THE FOLLOWING PROCEDURE BE FOLLOWED EXACTLY! IT IS TIME CONSUMING, HOWEVER, ESSENTIAL! 3.1 Remove bleader in the stock upper heater hose. 3.2 Fill radiator and coolant recovery reservoir with anti freeze coolant. It should take 10 quarts, including reservoir. It is important that the coolant is poured through the radiator filler neck at less than 1.5 quarts per minute, in order to allow air in the system to escape. 3.3 When the engine coolant overflows the at the bleader, re-install the bleader 3.4 Warm the engine to the normal operating temperature with the radiator cap installed. 3.5 Run the engine at 3,000 RPM for 10 seconds and then allow it to return to idle speed. § Repeat this action three times. 3.6 Stop engine and allow coolant temperature to drop below 120°F. Use a remote electric fan to assist in this process. If necessary, refill the radiator and reservoir up to the filler neck. 3.7 Repeat steps 3.3 to 3.6 at least two more times (it may take more) with the radiator cap installed, until the engine coolant level no longer drops. 3.8 Check the cooling system for leaks with the engine running. 3.9 Fully warm the engine and listen for the sound of coolant flow through the heater unit, inside the car; while running the engine from idle to 3,000 RPM, with the heater control set at several positions between cool and warm. Repeat this action three times 3.10 If any sound is heard, continue to bleed excess air from the cooling system, by repeating steps 3.3 to 3.6, until the coolant level no longer drops.

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Refer to my previous post #6

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Best to stick with genuine stuff, especially radiator caps etc.

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If both fans are working as they should then you probably still have air in the system. Perhaps there is a blockage so best to reverse flush the heater matrix and radiator etc. If there is a build up of pressure causing the coolant leak, then you will have to find the root cause. Radiator cap should also be looked at. Not that common for water pump failure, however I have seen the impeller blades braking off. Best to get the fan motors checked again. Perhaps the coolant was not topped up to the correct level after they bled the system.

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Swop out the slave cyl and fit a braided hose, some high temperature fluid, get all the air out the system and you should be sorted.

Kinda fond of these myself. Enjoy.

Best to take it back to the supplying dealer.

Rubbish video, you will have to do much better than that for an informed diagnoses. Best to drop in to a 350Z specialists for there input.

Definitely sounds like clutch slip, so probably time for a new clutch kit and fly.

You should be able to jam it from turning if you are handy with the tools or just get the angle grinder out. You can drive cautiously with out the links but best not to, until you have the links back on.