ZMANALEX

Good luck with that mate. Be cheaper to give up the fags.

http://www.clarkmotorsport.net/parts/Ash-Tray/68800-CD400

Okay, sorry for the delay but been a bit manic here. I have 1 x brand new and 4 x used of the clip type. Let me know if I can help further.

Unfortunately not enough room for the BJ splitter. If the correct tooling is not to hand then the bolster chisel is the best option to move the bushing down a tad to break the "seal" and create a gap.

You wont loosen with a pry if it is well seized. Using a bolster chisel at the top of the bushing will move the bushing down a few centimetres and you will then get in from the top with the release oil. Then using the pry bar evenly, you will be able to work the bushing off the pin. There are no threads at the top of the pin so the threads can not be damaged. Any resulting damage however will depend on how ham fisted your man is.

As said, very common for the bushing to be seized on the chassis pin, however no need to cut any thing off. When seized I either use a puller to get if off, however if your man does not have the correct tooling for the job then a bolster chisel between the chassis leg and the bushing will get it moved the first few centimetres and then work of using a large pry bar.

Can you not just move your PB images to say, Imgur ?

Common fault mate. Best advice that I can give you is go find a competent mechanic

No, not me Gary.

to the forum.

Yeah, I will have one but you would be cheaper just picking one up from Nissan as I would have to charge you P&P.

You will require a 50mm threaded hook for the rear. Probably hiding under the new battery.

The O ring is reached through the Bose grill behind the seat, It is at the very top of the tank and will only leak when the tank is full or when on a steep incline. You have to remove the in tank fuel pump to replace the O ring

PM received and replied to:

to the forum.

Nissan have quoted you for a complete suspension upright as they do not sell the ball joint separately. Good luck with the super glue.

Got your shout mate and I am working on it, Unfortunately they are 350Z specific.

Yeah those are the ones with the clips. I will give you a shout once I hit the wheel store before the end of the week,

to the forum

Clean up, inject some fresh grease and glue and you will be fine. However the ball joint can be replaced including a new rubber boot at circa £50.00 In stock and good to go same next day. Just drop me a PM if you wish to go that route. Alex.

Very annoying but it is what it is and just got to deal with it. That is the trade off in venturing into the realms of circa 700 lbs ft torque. I am fortunate that I can fix these issues and that I have the premises and tools and equipment to deal with such eventualities. I have never seen or heard of a (1st motion shaft) final drive gear failing.

Providing the syncros do not give up, the early boxes are usually fine. However the 3 teeth that sheered off were central to an oil gallery feed supply hole. And as it was a 1st motion shaft failure (main drive gear) then it has got to be down to the torque. Good luck with your box mate, however I would not envisage that you will have any issues as they are robust albeit a bit agricultural.

Yeah Gary, got one last week but not as cheap as the one in the link that you PM'd me.

Well it had to happen eventually. The car is producing 720bhp at the wheels and circa 700 lbs.ft. Used predominantly on track, but still loved and cherished. For those of a technical disposition this is the original box from a 2005 350Z Roadster (28,000 miles) and not the later CD009 transmission with the improved syncros. However the part that failed is shared by all VQ35DE gearboxes. Unfortunately not worth of fixing as the cost of replacing the damaged part (Main Drive Gear) and the marrying counter shaft gear set and upgrading the syncros to CD009 quality would exceed the cost of a new CD009 gearbox from over the pond at less than 2k delivered to my shop. Some images of today's adventure: