Ekona

Always buy on condition and not on mileage, so you're already on the ball there as far as I'm concerned. Ultimately you're just going to have to do as much due diligence as you can and go with the evidence in front of you, as even if a private seller says that they never rag the car from cold who's to say they're telling the truth? At least you have comeback when you buy from a trader, whereas it's much harder to prove what a private seller said unless you ask them to write it down. Traders also bluff, so I wouldn't say one source is more reliable than the other. Look at the car, look at the history and look at the seller (both private and trade), and make your own call. Unfortunately there's no right or wrong answer here, plenty of people have been caught out by both sources. Do your research, go with your gut. But don't buy from Junction 17. Ever.

We need more details here, as that's very odd that you have to reapply for your licence again: That usually only happens in medical cases, but they're usually bans for 12 months or longer. What's actually happened, and what paperwork have you been given?

Because regardless of what they say, that's not normal and is definitely excessive. That's an awful lot of oil to be using, and you have to think about where it's going. If every single engine used that much then fine, it's by design, but it's only dodgy Revup or very worn engines that do so you have to take the logical view and realise that's way too much. These are modern engines, not Italian lumps from the 1970's. And is it not 1L/1000KM, so a fair bit more than 1L/1000mi?

A better one would find a way to do that without putting chemicals into your fuel system...

Could be a person from the Newcastle area stuck under the accelerator.

What's a 'wor' noise? As in it sounds like someone saying "WORRRRRRRR!"?

NEVER mix across an axle, ever. So yes, swap them both over, bearing in mind the general rules about mixing tyres front to rear as well.

Def not something I’d risk at all.

Reasonably high then, but not excessive. Assuming it hasn’t changed recently, I’d leave the oil alone but start saving for the engine work that’s required sooner rather than later.

Yeah, in reality it's just a reduction in the value of the car like if it was in crap condition, so they just go along those lines.

Did you take that photo on a potato?!

Nah, they'd just reduce the value of the payout like they always have done.

None whatsoever. If you don't have any issues right now, no need to change

It's not actually any thicker other than for the first few minutes your engine is running.

Your insurance isn't invalid if you don't have an MOT. Never has been, I've no idea where that old chestnut started.

I don't believe the garage has the right to withhold your car from you. If you drive off, that's on you: They have no legal charge over the vehicle.

Only if it's a dangerous fault, which means it's not roadworthy, which is exactly what I said Anything else and crack on and drive right on home.

Not at all, all that will mean is that it's a bit thicker when it's cold. It'll be exactly the same when it's all warmed up, so zero benefit really.

I want to try the 4S

What? You could just drive your car home, as long as it's not unroadworthy i.e. bits hanging off and dropping oil everywhere. Doesn't even matter if the MOT has expired, you still have the legal right to drive your car to and from the MOT station.

Really?!

Yeah I think we're all a bit lost Bigger issue for most will be that a car now needs to be seriously modified into proper track/rally spec before being allowed to get away with removing airbags, non-sliding seats etc.

Emissions haven’t changed though, they’re still the same.

Might be release agent, yes. TCS light flickering?

It’s the non-OEM cats that strictly speaking would not pass, as they’re obviously modified from the manufacturer.