Ekona

He would know better than me, however it shouldn't do: the whole point of the numbers is so you know how oils behave compared with each other at fixed measurements. http://www.upmpg.com/tech_articles/motoroil_viscosity/ is possibly the easiest to understand version of the data I've seen. If you look at the tables, it gives the limits as to where an oil will sit based on how it performs. That said, my knowledge of oils isn't infallible by any means, this is just my understanding of them at a very basic level. It would seem very odd if by altering one rating the other then moved relative to a competing oil, as otherwise what's the point in giving measurements at all?

75w-90 will be permanently thicker than 75w-85, as it's the last number that dictates ultimate viscosity at a set temperature (100c). It'll be identical when cold, that's the 75w bit. Will the difference be noticeable? Possibly, but it'll also prevent against wear better.

Oh you don't want me anywhere near a can of spray paint, trust me

That's... a very good idea!

Oh I dunno...

I wouldn't ditch the fronts to make way for them, I'd wait until the fronts were ready to go along with the rears and then change.

Ditch the lot, go MPSS all round. 040s are dreadful, get rid of them. TR1s are also appalling, I actually prefer the 040s as at least they don't melt when it's sunny EDIT Ah hang on, this is in the 370 bit (stupid mobile app). In that case just stick with the 050As if you're happy with them, they're a decent tyre.

QUICK FOLKS, HE WORKS AT HALFORDS, HE MUST BE AN INFILTRATOR! GET HIM!!!

No different to just rubbing the dirt directly into your paint. Fine if you don't mind a car covered in swirls that looks great at 20m, not so great if you like your paintwork even a little bit.

I'd be removing it from the car completely, no question about it then. I mean, if you're never going to use it.

Put it this way, you're out and about and a copper stops you because his speed gun wasn't working when trying to lock onto you. He finds this installed on the car, do you think anyone will believe that it was actually the car next to you that was running it at the time? Personally I'd be ripping it out asap, just in case.

Please don't do it

Better late than never... L-R, all years approximate! 2002 Peavey International bass, my current gigging bass. 1997-ish Marlin Precision copy, I'd actually forgotten I owned this until my Mum found it clearing out my old bedroom a few years back! Probably one of the first basses I ever owned. 1994 Squier Strat, my first ever guitar. Sadly no longer works, hence the taped up strings. Kept purely for sentimental reasons. 2008 No-name Strat copy. My MIL bought this to learn on, gave up, gave it to me. I've never played it. 1997 Squier Jagmaster. Love this one so much, bought as a treat to myself when I was at college. The first guitar I bought myself when I could play more than three chords! 2001 Epiphone SG. I always wanted an SG but didn't fancy paying Gibson prices, and tbh I'm glad I didn't. Horribly unbalanced things, but they do look so cool. 2016 Ibanez AEG2411. My first ever acoustic, only bought last year. I really like the thin neck and body on this, feels very 'electric' in use which makes it easy to play. 2012 Fender Mustang Cobain edition. My precious. Huge fan of Nirvana, and as luck would have it I actually prefer my guitars with short scale necks too. Beautiful tone, dirty as hell if you want it, stunning. And the gear too: Top: Peavey Bandit 112 Red. Some love these, some hate them. I think they give a surprisingly full tone from a solid state amp, and whilst they're not exactly delicate it does give me the tone I'm after. Bottom: Trace Elliott GP7 SM 150. No longer running the original speaker (although I can't actually remember what I put in there now!), this has done me proud over the years on the road. FX: Digitech RP1000. Bought a few months after the Mustang, and tbh it's not great. I had an ancient RP6 which was superb, but this is just a little gutless. The effects (chorus, flanger etc) themselves are spot-on, but the amp and cabinet stuff is so thin. Not a great buy if I'm honest, I still need to spend a good day tweaking everything really. I really want a purple Ibanez electric next, something with some angles to look cool when playing metal on.

Yeah, don't buy from there! Buy these, they have the highest lumens rating of anything sensibly priced (3200, most others top out at 2800) so you'll get better vision than OEM replacement too.

And make sure you replace them as a pair, when one goes the other won't be far behind.

Cheers bud, I'm not sure I'll make it through the night at this rate though :(

Personally I'd just put a bit of heatproof wrap around the bits that touch and be done with it.

Get him to shift the wedding to the transport museum

Post cat

The quality of the filter is the most important thing really. Swap that nasty blue thing out for a decent Green/K&N one and that would be fine.

Precat failure is a 1zz issue for celicas and MR2s, which forum were you on?? You just need a new O2 sensor, easy as that.

Also worth a punt trying to tighten it first, too. Seems counter productive but you'd be surprised how often it'll free a stubborn thread.

Not a chance in hell an Apple Watch is worth it, and I say that as an owner. Smart watches need to grow up quickly, or they'll never catch on. Give me a watch that doesn't need a phone and can do FaceTime and it'll be a winner, but right now it's just a limited gadget that does everything okay, but nothing well.

A knighthood should be given after a lifetime worth of achievement, not just ten years. Can't help but think that the tyres will still be the limiting factor in fun racing again this year. Pirelli really need a kick up the arse, or better still open it up to more than one manufacturer again.

Yes, you really must! Gonna be unmissable, I reckon. The meet to end all meets, the celebration to end all celebrations, the party to *snip*