RobPhoboS

That's why you use the spot meter. 'Spot Meter lets you film from a dark space while pointing the camera into a brighter setting, such as when recording the outdoors from within a car...'

(wrong forum section but...) Fantastic ! I'd forgotten about it, must grab a copy at some point.

That lot are a bunch of f-wits.

Ok, just bare it in mind. Prior to having the Cobra, I had the Scorpion y-pipe back, no problems with that and fouling due to it being heavier.

No to dissuade you too much but what exhaust do you have y-pipe back ? I only ask because... I had a (new) Stillen pipe and sold it. It made a weird hissing sound at 1800rpm or so, ok not the worst thing but it got annoying after a year. Once I had the lighter Cobra y-pipe back installed the Stillen pulled the system upwards no matter how much we tried to adjust it, which caused it to foul against the chassis. This caused the car to quite violently vibrate/rattle and drove me nuts, I had to wedge pieces of tyre at the fouling points to separate it until I could buy a y-pipe with flexi joints (top tip from Bradders)

Cheers for the heads up on CB - I forgot he was doing that.

I didn't see it linked but... http://www.dontbea****ingidiot.uk/

My friends one was like this years ago, I swear in his case it was the crappy Bridgestones - but largely worn bushings & not having a geo/alignment done properly.

Have a look here (for ex): http://www.frost.co.uk/search/?q=VHT You can always email them and ask.

VHT Black Wrinkle = No acid etch primer. If you do what I outlined, it works... If you use a different paint, it may require primer.

Couple of ideas.. Since you've mentioned the exhaust, just have a look at the exhaust sections for soot deposits at the joins. Where it connects to the Y-pipe use exhaust gasket sealant, my one dripped at that part when the car was idling. But if it's coming from the engine bay you may just have a loose pipe or a punctured one, inspect them. I think you can spray carb cleaner onto the pipes whilst it's idling, if you get a sudden change in the RPM, then that'll indicate it's leaking (although I think you'd possibly hear it).

I wrote down which Sealey one I used gazzard27. Just order a converter set as well, always handy ex: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Am-Tech-Converter-Set-4-Pieces/dp/B001MPRSAC/ref=sr_1_1?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1430908806&sr=1-1&keywords=Am-Tech+Converter+Set I have to disagree with that crawford pdf - just follow the bloody manual

It's in the manual I pointed to. LOW torque though, or you'll be snapping bolts.

Nothing that requires replacing, very easy to do - BUT - the bolts need to be removed and installed in a specific order, and at a specific torque. So having a low-torque torque wrench is advised, I bought a Sealey STW1012 for these sort of jobs. Look at page 16 onwards here: http://www.nicoclub....e/2004.5/em.pdf I didn't disconnect the throttle body from the upper collector, just masked everything up properly, easy peasy Worth getting a can of carb cleaner, spray it on, wipe it down then use something like a sanding sponge type of thing just to give the outer surface a bit of a rub down. Finally spray it down again with the carb cleaner and wipe it with a clean cloth.

Either do the paypal thing whereby you are covered - READ their details on that first. Or just wait to find one from a trader here. Lastly, don't bugger the replacement one up like the last one

Double :thumbs: for this kit.

These guys in the States make the replacement for it: http://www.z1motorsports.com/350_g35/product_info.php?products_id=4280 It's just a breather hose for the booster but as to the diameter etc, not sure. I can measure it on Thur though.

Sorry to post it again - but compared to what it was like, I think my one looks oky doky now I gave it a quick clean and wrinkle finish paint (no primer, just a few coats). I'll do the bolts when Torqen has a kit sorted

More useful to post here - others can see it

If you've got some tools, I'd recommend taking the suspension off to test the shocks. Once compressed (without the spring obv), the piston rod should return quite quickly, my ones varied, one took a short while and didn't fully come out, others didn't even move after about 15mins No visible signs of anything wrong either. So I'm just saying, because you may think it's ok, one or two could be knackered, it's worth baring in mind as it doesn't take too long to get them off and test. In terms of what you want to do, up to you isn't it. The car is compromised in terms of handling out of the factory, as it's not an out and out sports car but can be adjusted (with cash) to be more that way As a side note, my car handles better for me, and rides more comfortably than it did before replacing lots of bits and pieces.

IF you want to adjust the geo properly, you're going to require adjustable parts - upper camber arms etc So technically you don't need to have new shocks but you will still need to spend a little anyway. What mileage is your car ? I ask because my OEM shocks had died at some point, and it was pretty much just riding on the springs which felt kind of hard. Now that I have the B6's on there, it feels SOOO much better (I installed parts progressively, so I could feel the changes incrementally).

Good tyres (MPSS for ex) Bilstein B6 shocks (on OEM springs or slightly lower springs like the Tein S) Eibach adjustable anti-roll-bar + Adjustable droplinks IF slightly lowered Geo (I also have other bits and pieces but I'd say that is a nice feel)

I'd go for an engine BUT I'd really want to get it from someone you can trust. Some guy over in Ireland could be fine and well but if that engine is fooked, so are you - nothing you can do. Plus, you might get some cash back for the old engine as someone may want it for a project, despite it's condition. Did ZMANALEX or any other traders offer a working engine ? Also, what is the specific reason the engine carked it ? (was it just crappy oil?)

Right, I'll have a separate post for this but just in summary, ds2500's are better. Admittedly I've also had the front disc's skimmed as well but it feels like I'm able to wipe off speed noticeably quicker. I've kept the old pads for track day back up though.

Sorry, yeah I saw the guide, I was just commenting that it's gone mental I may give it a whirl tonight.