RobPhoboS

Try and stick to the 6/hex sockets rather than the star looking ones - they tend to slip causing rounding of bolts... nissan bolts like rounding far too easily. Impact sockets tend to be better as well (the black ones) but sizes from 10-21mm will be fine. No idea about the discs though.

The way you've worded your post doesn't sound like you know what you're doing, so er - be careful What ever year your car is - look at the workshop manual: http://www.nicoclub....ce-manuals.html Then choose the br.pdf to read - for whichever year it is (bolt/nut sizes will be in there). Secondly - there IS a guides section on this forum - have a look: http://www.350z-uk.c...orum/35-guides/ Or on the US one as well: http://my350z.com/fo...ension-diy-459/ Buy: torque wrench - seriously, over or under tightening stuff up could be asking for trouble (1/2 drive, 20-200nm approx will be fine for most jobs - around 500mm long should be ok). A can of Plus Gas will help with removing stuff (WD40 is shite). A tube/tub of copper grease. It's an easy job, however - I managed to snap bolts when removing things in the past it's easily done unfortunately. (It's also why I bought an impact wrench )

Right, I think I should order a replacement o ring. I was just driving to the gym, accelerated a little bit at a junction and then could immediately smell some fuel. I just wondered if anyone knows the part number for this ? It's the fuel sub-tube O ring. The other thing I saw in the manual was that you are: INSTALLATION 1. Install fuel damper and fuel sub-tube. â— When handling new O-rings, be careful of the following caution: CAUTION: â— Handle O-ring with bare hands. Do not wear gloves. â— Lubricate O-ring with new engine oil. â— Do not clean O-ring with solvent. â— Make sure that O-ring and its mating part are free of foreign material. â— When installing O-ring, be careful not to scratch it with tool or fingernails. Also be careful not to twist or stretch O-ring. If O-ring was stretched while it was being attached, do not insert it quickly into fuel tube. â— Insert O-ring straight into fuel tube. Do not decenter or twist it. What does the oil do ?

Post up some before/after pics once you've tried those dent kits out

Find out what one they gave you JUST in case (although I'd assume they are roughly the same no?). I've used a Nissan one, one from Clark and just a few weeks ago one from Opie oils.

The spray will work better than water. Irrespective of cleaning it - why does it look all gunky in there ? (anyone know?)

You won't need anything else, just spray it on, and wipe it away - repeat as required

Lol no: http://www.halfords.com/motoring-travel/engine-oils-fluids/fuel-oil-additives/wynns-fuel-injection-carburettor-cleaner-500ml

Buy a can of carb cleaner.

That looks nasty, I used carb cleaner and a microfibre cloth. But my one was just lightly coated in oil.

Double check in the manual (em.pdf - page 34) for your year of car - it does say 16mm in the manual though: http://www.nicoclub....ce-manuals.html I bought a long tube one from Halfords - just take a replacement spark with you to double check the size. bc1987: so you don't drop it and crack the ceramic material Also, iirc my one said 14mm on the tube confusingly.

It's utter bollox mate BUT don't dwell on this stuff, just move on and stay positive. Try something like this - it MAY help, you never know: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Am-Tech-Dent-Repair-Tool-Kit/dp/B0053OJJ7I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1429182760&sr=8-1&keywords=dent

Yeah it's a case of the wiring loom blocking the cover either removing, or installing. You'll see as you start to do it. It'll take a bit more time but in the end make it easier to do the job - so of course, it's up to you. You don't need help, just time - I prefer doing these things myself typically, just so I know exactly what's going on, and that it's my car - I want to ensure I've torqued things up or what not.

Easy to say but in that split second the risk of a scuffed wheel seems better than a full on ding and the brain takes over.... There are a few roads where I know it gets tight with high curbing on one side, my automatic response is to just slow right down and if a big car\lorry is coming I stop. As I've done it a few times I'm wary of tight spaces just in case, if you're mentally aware of it, I believe it takes part of the reaction time right down as with anything... (imho)

Any time there's a situation like that I just stop the car to avoid exactly what happened. At least they can be repaired bud

Ok so it's not finished yet, doesn't look pretty but another 'early access' Steam game, however it's actually nuts the detail they've gone in to http://www.automationgame.com

You may want to have a search on brake bias and the effects of dicking around with it EDIT: If you've got a mug of coffee to hand - read this: http://stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/white-paper---brake-bias-and-performance-why-brake-balance-matters

I can hear it when it's idling but I've no idea what it means unfortunately, hopefully someone else does.

So I applied the RTV sealant around the bolt holes in the rocker cover groove as shown in the video, you could be totally right that it's not required but I felt it's worth having. It also helps keeping the gasket from falling out, and possibly reducing any issue of pinching (imho). Yes, it takes 24 hours to fully cure but around 30-40 mins to go from it's initial malleable state to being a bit more rubbery for want of a better word. He does show that in the video, and because it was cold outside, it put them inside the house with some weight on top of it (not loads). I promise it's not a hard job, just time consuming and it's really worth taking your time, getting reference photo's and labelling things up. I think I swore twice (I over torqued one of the upper plenum bolts - snap , and I couldn't get that plug off from one of the pics) I should also add, I'm going to do an oil change (argh, only did this about 6 weeks ago) for 2 reasons. If there were any particles of old sealant\plastic\dirt that fell into the engine I want it out, and also so I can keep an eye on the oil level. I'll probably pop some new spark plugs in as well at the end of the month.

Read the manual & watch the video (seriously, it tells you in there). Pick you year of car here: http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/nissan-350z-factory-service-manuals.html Read the ec.pdf (page 45 that's what "EC-45, "FUEL PRESSURE RELEASE"" means) and the em.pdf for the rest of the job. Then come back and ask if you are still confused mate

So if anyone else is going to embark on this, aside from what you get in the handy kit, watch the videos several times and printing the manual out like he does, makes it far easier to see settings for torque spec etc: Odds and sods: Top up oil (in case you er loose some ) Head torch Low torque - Torque wrench (2-20nm will do it) - buy one and bloody use it - f'ing tight doesn't cut it. Various ratchet extenders Good quality 10mm sockets - most of the bolt heads on this job are 10mm, so I used a couple of different ones (small, deep etc) Crows foot socket (just 10mm will do for this job - don't get a crap cheap set, look for a reasonable kit like the Draper one - check the design differences in the pics - I forgot I had this in the shed so made do with a 10mm ratchet spanner for the hard to get to right bank bolt in the bottom corner) Can of carb cleaner (useful for cleaning the inside of the rocker covers, and sprayed onto a mf cloth to wipe down the metal of the mounting point) Cling film (I used this to cover various pipes and holes into the engine) Long nose pliers (some of the clips are a pain to reach - something like this will help): http://www.amazon.co...1" LONG HANDLES I can't stress this enough, having the manual to hand is a must as it tells you exactly what to do. RTFM Here are various pics I took when I remembered, I was by myself so I typically just want to get on with the job. In the beginning: (my mum's neighbour gave me a large marquee tent a few weeks ago - very handy as it initially kept the rain out, then later the sunshine from cooking me) Pull the fuse to the fuel pump, crank it a few times - in PDF manual EC-45, "FUEL PRESSURE RELEASE" Difference between left and right covers - notice the oil residue on the left one (it was even underneath the air filter box). This plug slowed me down completely, it's at the back of the left bank but I couldn't feel how to bloody get it off, so in the end I left it on, probably would have been better off tbh It's also mentioned in the z33 garage video. One cover off: Check how oily this bugger is: Both off - and just ensure you cover up the cams etc I didn't bother taking photo's of cleaning up the covers as it's pretty obvious. The only thing I'd recommend is to use something thin and blunt to get a bit of microfibre cloth into the gasket grove, to ensure it's fully clean. And use enough RTV sealant or this happens... (still pongs of burnt oil as loads more than that came out ) So the initial attempt certainly did take it's time, so give yourself plenty if you've not done this before. On my second go at it, stripping it back took around 1.5hrs but then I was super dooper anal about cleaning the surfaces properly and letting the RTV cure for 40mins on the cover gasket and the engine L bits you plop on. So it was another very late night by the time I had done that bit again. I also re-sprayed the upper plenum and gave it a clean

Mods - we've got a TROLL !!!!

It still drives perfect though, no missing no nothing. its spot on. just smoking a lot, when i changed the oil 4.5 litres came out. thats pretty much what i put in 600 miles ago, barr the oil filter. I wonder what the heck it is though, just seems weird that it's happened after plug/oil change. Then again one of my compression arms started knocking immediately after I changed the suspension, so could just be random timing.

At least you'll know what's causing the issue after he's looked it over. I think you were a bit daft for driving it hard whilst it's clearly not well, hopefully it's nothing serious at all

Search on YouTube, z33 garage - it's on there.