RobPhoboS

Sounds very similar to my car. (but more than likely louder as it's single exit)

Do what Ekona said to do first - just do it safely and DONT put the handbrake on either See how you get on, then come back and let us know. (I use Yellow Stuff which are a step up, no noisey issues in that regard)

Phew - that was a great experience, excellent place guys ! No matter where you are in the country I'd strongly advise heading to them, especially if you have adjustable suspension parts. Their particular hunter system is brilliant, and of course it's only as good as the operator, in my case Joe was straight on it and Tony (bless him, he's not well at the moment) was overseeing and chatting to me about it all. The very first thing Joe did once the kit was on and it was in the air, was to rectify the issue I had about not being able to get the split pin through the bolt. This was before I even mentioned it, he realised there was a collar that I didn't require on my particular car and once it was off, he got the pins in place. Next up was just a query as to why I wanted -2 camber, and how having it set like that without being able to adjust the rears (standard OEM bits) enough would create some interesting turn-in oversteer..which I don't fancy cheers So they advised what they set, and I guess in the future if I want it more aggressive I'll need the rear adjustable camber arms as well. The car drives far better now, it's not pulling to the left, nor did I have that issue with the pins and needles - so I retract my earlier statement, it must have been due to the odd angles I initially had it It was more expensive than I realised it was going to be but I'm happy with the work done by Joe and WIM. Here is my print out, probably worth ignoring the before as that was me tarting around last weekend and giving up:

Same happened with my one after putting on the new cobra y-pipe, just needed exhaust sealant despite being very tight.

Actually the before is pretty nice, what did you clean it up with ? I've got some black wrinkle to go on my one but that champagne colour could look pretty nice - depending I guess on the whole bay

It seems to be the highest rated one to go for but there are some others of course, I'll find out some details. Perhaps a few of us could do something, I'd be aiming for April/May. Colin over at CAT is highly regarded: http://www.catdrivertraining.co.uk/ Don Palmer: http://www.donpalmer.co.uk/car-control.html And I'm good friends with Mike Wilds, so I might be able to arrange something with him.

http://www.carlimits...irfieldtraining I did it in high summer, it was 34 degrees or so and my tyres took a punishing! I've been meaning to do this for ages, shame nothing available until July

Stick to buying from owner clubs, it's what I've always done. Their (dealers) warranties aren't worth crap IMHO - better off with warranty wise if it's THAT important.

Well I'm off to Wheels In Motion tomorrow, Tony has been ever helpful and has informed (warned? haha) Joe about the arms. (edit - Tony is actually coming down tomorrow as well ) So all being well I can report back tomorrow on how it goes but my last experience with them was fantastic (fully adjustable coilovers and suspension parts on my old MR2)

If you didn't use gasket sealant...drip drip

There's a guide as well, just in case http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/21377-how-to-fit-a-380rs-accelerator-pedal/

I'd advise doing research on it but at least I can say, yep those 2 companies are good and know what they are doing (plus they deal with Ferrari/Lambo/Porsche etc all of the time).

I re-used my Superpro ones but have some spare Prothane ones that came in a kit, just in-case.

Are you going to have anything protecting the new paint ? A couple of mates have had their Speciale's and other cars done here: http://www.topazlondon.com/services#topaz-paint-protection-film Or some other friends use a mates place that does the Ventureshield stuff: http://cgperformance.co.uk/?page_id=751 Quite a few new products out there but I know for sure those 2 places are very, very high quality work.

Just what I thought! Ahh he know's I've got to go and collect something, and that I'm a trustworthy soul

(warning, a fair bit of waffle here) So I've been battling with a spongy brake pedal for a while now, despite last year having new discs, pads, lines. Recently bled by Sly at Kaizer, then myself and a friend using the old way with one person on the brakes etc Then I thought sod it, get a power bleeder as it means I don't have to wrangle a mate over late in the evening The garage that did the discs\pads work plus some other bits reported that it was difficult to bleed the system, and something to do with the ABS. Now I understand what they meant. From what I gather (please correct if I'm wrong!), even if the lines and master cylinder have no air trapped, it's still possible that the ABS module can have some. So if you take it to Nissan, I believe when they bleed the system, they'll use their Consult II/III scanner/software that activate the ABS module, which in tern will release any potential trapped air. Kindly octet hooked his Consult III up to my car and we did that, although at the time I didn't bleed the brakes, however I believe it did let some air out into the system. There are a couple of other ways to activate your ABS though. Find a quiet bit of road and slam the brakes on, a gravel road would probably be better if you can find somewhere. Or you can do it when the car is on axle stands in the air: (not something I want to do though) http://forum.miata.n...ad.php?t=429317 This guy does a good job of showing you what to do: At 3:45 he shows you how to use a pressure bleeder. A couple of little tips (especially if stubborn like my one is): Remove some fluid from the MS first, not dried out though. Pressure test the bleeder before putting any fluid in it. 10-15 psi should be good. NSR-OSF-OSR-NSF Press the brake pedal every so often if using a pressure bleeder, I did it before opening the valves. Bleed outer, then inner, then outer whilst tapping the caliper with a deadblow hammer. (have a rag and some water near by as it can get MESSY ) And finally as an extra step which I may have to try out next week is to remove and tilt the brake caliper, some air could be trapped in there. See this: - I think you could just remove one bolt, and loosen the other so it can tilt - I don't think you'd have to remove it. So bleed the brakes as outlined, pop the wheels back on, fire it up, ensure the pedal doesn't sink, then go trigger the ABS and re-bleed as required. Thus having a pressure bleeder will mean you can just get on with it yourself. Review: I bought the VS820 with VS820UA adapter (seen in the pics), it's probably a bit overkill as the Eezibleed will do the same thing but, meh I got it now. I'd recommend just buying a new/spare master cylinder cap, and swap out the one that came with the basic VS820 kit if you just want to use it on the 350z. If you do that, you'll just need some epoxy, and several washers to make a perfect fitting cap, rather than using the universal adapter. (pics to follow) Using the VS820 is very easy, the instructions are printed out in a leaflet as well as on the side of the container. What you must do, which I didn't the first time, is extract some fluid from the master cylinder first of all before hooking it up. I used a 100ml syringe thing from ebay but a turkey baster will do the job. The universal cap works, however you just have to get it at a good angle and be careful you aren't hitting any lines/cables. My only gripe is that the gauge on my kit seems a bit temperamental, so I'm going to replace it. Overall, it's a quality piece of kit. The connectors are of a decent quality, it's just a bit tight they don't give you some spare tubing for bleeding the valves, so make sure you have some ! I've used it twice now, and yesterday a few more micro bubbles came out as well as one larger one. The pedal is feeling firmer each time, so I think I'm pretty close Apologies for the crap pics but you get the idea (I'll put some better ones up next week). Also, put some towels, blankets around the master cylinder in case you get a leak etc - obviously you know what happens with paint and brake fluid.. Ebay bits bought: 2 x 11mm spanners for bleed nipples: http://www.ebay.co.u...=item68ce30a469 100ml Syring thingy: http://www.ebay.co.u...=item418fcb8741 Deadblow hammer: http://www.ebay.co.u...=item19f8b334a5 Bleed nipple dust caps: http://www.ebay.co.u...=item43c4c00f5a Bleed nipples: http://www.ebay.co.u...=item4aaa969a5f Brake fluid - 1.5ltrs should be plenty

It's the Do Luck bodykit Ah cool. Good to know

Thanks for posting. (btw - who is N12 SRA ? just wondered what front bumper that is)

Great, I'd definitely like to get one, I've just got tax/alignment/rc grommets to do first.. If piggy bank isn't too raided I'll get one just after payday.

Oh just thought I'd mention that my new struts hold the nismo spoilered boot up, no problem.

Is this the only one or can you get another?

Also the odb needs to be v1.5 or below.

Hmm, unfortunately I can't be of much use in this instance, I know a couple of the other guy's have coilovers and these. Hopefully they'll chip in.

For me I can just jack the car up with the wheel on (just about touching the ground) and the clearance is fine for me to adjust the camber. I guess it depends on what kind of suspension you have on your car.

I'd get a small mixer like this: http://www.andertons...annel-mixer.asp Plus a splitter adapter: http://www.andertons...reo-sockets.asp Worth typing in headphone splitter on ebay to see what'll work for you. (depending on your headphone connector size) And/Or: http://www.andertons...w-8-outputs.asp To be honest the best thing to do is call them, or a local shop but Andertons are a great bunch