RobPhoboS

Arghh mates going over there (Spa) this weekend in new 918 & CGT

Let me know how you get on with that stuff mate. I've got a rotary as well, loads of random products but the last two I bought were Megs #105 and #205 (iirc) and have that Ultra Compound sitting around too. LC pads and some others I can't remember Oh and was pointed out last week - ensure you clay bar the paint prior to using the polisher ! (something I kept neglecting)

Ah yes I think I see (in my mind at least), hopefully in my case I won't need them but I'll see what happens. Nice one on the fitting bits guys! Oh, how did you stop the driftworks bolt spinning when getting the new pins in?

I forgot to ask, do you 'need' adjustable drop links with the adjustable arbs?

You should hear how loud my one is after fitting the transmission poly bushing

https://www.youtube.com/user/GTchannel https://vimeo.com/hotversion https://www.youtube....er/HotVersionGT iirc you can also do some rentals of the vids as well Ex: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yG7KJdcBmlE&oref=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DyG7KJdcBmlE&has_verified=1 £2.99 rental

pft - Best Motoring is where it's at (but I'll watch any car show, even that one where they buy, restore and sell )

Do you know what... that's probably one major area I've been going totally wrong ! I know for sure the last few times I had a go, I didn't do this, washed and dried but not clayed. I'll do that for sure.

I think I have Meguiars #105 & #205 to use first and various pads to try (it's been ages since I've taken the rotary out!).

The Sealey VS820 (v4) & VS820UA (v3) arrived today I've read through many, many threads on the states version which is the Motive Power Bleeder, and got some extra tips to test out. I'll report back at some point on Saturday as to what I think of this product (will do a separate thread)

Tony hasn't set the car up, just commenting on my settings (or 'to be' settings as I need to adjust). No my car isn't very low, just on the tein s springs and bilstein b6 dampers. Tony over at Wheels In Motion said 'All you need to do is adjust the arms pick up point at the chassis to move the castor'. & 'All you need to do is decrease the length of the front upper point or increase the rear point, sometimes we have to do both depending on the adjustment range.' I need to dial my caster back a bit (just over 9 at the mo, trying to get around 7°30 from Tonys advice with my set up). And just to confirm Kam at DW's said yep While I agree with the above I'll be very careful unwinding the arm to chassis joints as it does not seem these UCAs were designed for caster adjustment and there is not a lot of thread or strenght in those ends. Looks likely to fail if not fully wound in. I hope I'm wrong. More +ve caster is better especially in the zed with very dull front end feel from stock, so I'm wondering why he would advice less caster than the upper OEM limit!? I've been running near dead on 10 deg with no probs but 9deg should be perfect IMHO. Yep, you're 100% spot on about that mate. So anyone else buying/fitting - pay attention to that ! The reason I know is because when I was adjusting them initially, I accidentally unwound them out, so currently they are fully done up I'll just do a very minor tweak on them to see what the system says if they let me sling my car up on it again (local KF - haha, they are very cool with me there). Otherwise for now they'll stay like that, and I'll leave it for which ever place can look at it next time. He's saying that the camber migration will be slow, so it'll tend to hold the position.

EXACTLY the same thing happened to me about a month ago - now I've got one in the middle of the frigging rear, repairable at least.

Tony over at Wheels In Motion said 'All you need to do is adjust the arms pick up point at the chassis to move the castor'. & 'All you need to do is decrease the length of the front upper point or increase the rear point, sometimes we have to do both depending on the adjustment range.' I need to dial my caster back a bit (just over 9 at the mo, trying to get around 7°30 from Tonys advice with my set up). And just to confirm Kam at DW's said yep

Still just as mad. My introduction was the How to 'subway'

(may not be quite work safe - nothing graphic - just odd) I love this guys stuff, great editing and pretty weird.

I was wondering about the Autoglym Paint Pro System, I have various products at home but nothing so far has really done the job. I'll have to try again once I'm finished fannying around with the chassis

Handy thread, I was just trying to prise off the centre caps so I could get a camber gauge in there, I didn't realise it was THAT snugly fitted.

I'd get them to pay for collection and to send out another one next day delivery. Problems happen but I'm sure they'll sort it out.

Many thanks. Ewen has one - all good now

Yes. Up on the Shortheath Rd/Ridgeway area. Just let me know Will do, I'll probably drop you a PM this weekend

Ah great, I was hoping it was those guys as they are about 15 mins from my parents - VERY handy to know for the future ! http://www.tgmsport.co.uk

Good choice. I can't understand why people would even bother with the OEM rubber bits, they fail again and the steering feels horrible.

Are you in Farnham, Surrey ? If so, we must meet up as I'm often down that way to see family/work on the car

Who ? (have you got a link)

I had a mildly similar experience when I had the front end and spoiler resprayed on my car. This is what I have taken from the experience - NEVER use friends of friends to do the work (especially on a good price etc). Just go to a professional place, and get it done properly. In your case this guy just sounds like a total bell end anyway. In my case, it wasn't horrendous work done but not good, took far too long. He's not doing the work any more as er he died last year - NOTHING to do with me I'll add