RobPhoboS

Scorpion is quieter than the Cobra (I had the Scorpion first), both nicely built, sound similar but the Cobra is louder, just looking at the back box you'll see that.

I'm currently using Yellow Stuff (I preferred this to Red on my old car), even though my pedal feel at the moment is irritating me, once these are biting they are fantastic, no fade either. Not the same car but this is worth noting:

Must resist, plus I've just agreed to something from Adrian Chassis and brakes for me at the mo. (it's probably far more useful to the FI guys as Keyser mentioned)

Interesting piece of kit, I've not seen one before. I guess it's long gone by now ?

Just in case anyone is wondering how to adjust their pedal before fiddling around under there: 14mm spanner Pair of pliers (& maybe a little bit of rag so you don't damage the thread) Just by looking at it, if you reduce the visible thread in the clevis bit, that'll stiffen the pedal but you MUST be careful as done too much the brakes will bind, and you'll cause a big stink. Page 7 in the BR pdf manual: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/350Z/coupe/2004_Coupe+Roadster/BR.pdf

Well just a follow up on this. Sly said there was barely any trapped air in the system but it's been bled properly and was noticed last week that there was a small leak on the rear offside. So today it was discovered that the actual stainless steel pipe flare/end was damaged, which explained the leak. So for now, just an OEM line back on instead of the Hosetechnik one (due to how they are attached). The spongy feeling I'm getting was totally eradicated initially by adjusting the pedal but unfortunately the pads were binding, so he adjusted them a few more times but they still feeling spongy. The stopping power is ridiculous once they dig in but it's that initial travel which is peeing me off ! So I'll try to finely adjust the pedal first of all but the only other 2 things are possibly new master cylinder (or repair kit?), or even pads but I know the pads were fierce if I can set it just right. Anyway, grumble grumble

So basically the previous company that installed the Hosetechniks overtightened this one, and that's the result. It split the brake pipe end which meant some fluid was leaking. Initially thought it was the Hosetechnik line at fault but it wasn't, I wish it was though as it could have been easily replaced. After looking at the ends of stock OEM line, HEL, Hosetechnik and Goodridge, the Goodridge is pretty much identical to stock which wouldn't cause an issue. Or in my case the Goodridge could be used without the leaking. It seems that the HEL and Hosetechniks are different to stock which can lead to buggering the end up if not installed correctly Luckily Sly had spare stock pipes, so a rubber one has gone back on without leaking.

Bah, issue discovered, rear offside brake pipe: :-(

Yeah I'd rather do that as well, unless you are after a different shaped wheel of course.

/excuse mode: on It's weird, usually I do them every 2 weeks and I guess I've not done any driving at all. And since everything has been changing chassis-wise I'm not used to it yet. /excuse mode: off The funny thing is, on my old MR2, I could tell which corner was down by a tiny amount.

Before you get them on, possible to weigh one? 😊

Damn, the price of these are good BUT is anyone else using them, and their thoughts so far ?

Yeah I get some of these calls as well, I wonder what'll be the effect of this ? I just refuse to answer my phone to numbers I don't have saved.

Hopefully we can just check and do that tomorrow One thing I did notice and forgot about, a few weeks ago I had a new front tyre fitted, and I didn't check the pressure afterwards. I checked this a couple of days ago (after alignment), and it was about 9PSI out ! That could be a coincidence, I'm not sure, the new tyre is only about 1mm deeper in tread depth though.

Rattle tends to be the ball joint in the compression (banana) arm in my experience, and the sound isn't that (imho). Plus when the joint end is knackered it doesn't affect the handling, at least not to start with. Knocks/clunks would either be the bushing in the compression arm or the drop links. Loads of threads as I'm sure you're aware. But you can easily grab a torch, stick your head under there and look around for any visual clues.

Hello mate. It's now lowered, the springs have been under the car for about 3 or 4 weeks now, about 1 week on the new Bilsteins. These are the new bushings: SuperPro Compression Arm bushing - on new compression arms. (Offset Bushes For standard Caster or Increase) SPF2849K Prothane Polyurethane Front Control Arm Bushing Kit (14-210) Front Upper Control Arm Bushings Front Lower Control Arm Bushings Front Lower Control Arm Shock Links Front Lower Radius Arm Bushings (not used, Superpro used instead) Prothane Poly Steering Rack Mount Bushing Kit (14-706) Prothane Polyurethane 21MM Rear Sway Bar Bushing Kit W Bracket (14-1116) Prothane Polyurethane 34MM Front Sway Bar Bushing Kit (14-1115) Totally agree on the SPL/Kinetix/Eibach products for the upper arm. And yep, I'm totally with you in identifying the root cause first, then proceed to resolve or get the arms. The frustrating thing is that if the right drivers side would come in more, I'd be happy, as I think camber of around -1.6 is fine for my use, and I wouldn't need to purchase anything else .

Also worth a try searching on google like this: site:350z-uk.com [whatever your searching for here] ex: site:350z-uk.com track day alignment site:my350z.com track day alignment

Respray. This'll show you roughly how to get them off/on -

Love the subtle interior, matte finish cf is a good choice, that shiny stuff would drive me nuts if it was anywhere near the dash !

Lovely jubly.

Something like this added to it ?

Later in the year I'm going for no:36.

it would be helpful if it did as that would help come service time. it would clash with the steering rack i think. Ah I see. From looking at your photo, it really just seems like you have to just get in at a different angle for the sump bolt, doesn't look literally blocked off if you see what I mean.

Yeah not sure about that but I get the exhaust thing a fair bit.

Just jot the codes down and google/forum search. Happens to me with the cold weather at times, thus I kept the reader in the car, erase errors. I think there's some bung thing that Clark or Tarmac sell for £10.