RobPhoboS

Hi Adrian, £128 is the price I have for the product kit and shipping but not the duty. (I'm not sure what the duty would be on a small kit like this ?)

Yep, I asked Sly when I was down there last time if he would be ok with doing it if i get the kit, a thumbs up from him (and good to know Abbey will do it as well)... at the end of the month I think I'll get it as my ones have been leaking for a while now.

I got my one from Machine Mart (as it's only up the road), a bit cheaper on ebay if not urgent: https://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/clarke-cew1000-electric-impact-wrench Pro's and con's for a corded one but I'd rather have continuous power rather than batteries for this thing. Something like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Draper-10-Piece-1-2-Square-Drive-Deep-Metric-Impact-Socket-Set-10mm-27mm-38369-/291379386642?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item43d7909912 NOTE - no 15mm piece in there ! (buy separately at the same time or find a full kit - you know it'll be sods law you need it) Do check for that whilst searching, as the set I bought didn't have a 12mm

Oo that seems like a smart move I'm just hoping for the best, but will have an alignment booked after it's fitted. You could order one online now, it'll arrive by tomorrow or pick one up in machine mart etc. Like yourself, it's just a temp solution until I get one of the garages to check it properly again.

I also bought a camber gauge just to get an approximate adjustment in

The Summit one is the front-mid one (same as the Tanabe and others), the GT Spec is the mid one - they can be used together... I'd be very interested to see IF you genuinely notice a difference on the road with these ones, and not just saying you do because you slapped some cash down Yeah if you're going to him, you might as well (although I personally really enjoy working on it now). It's not just the torque/leverage, I've found that the action of the impact wrench doesn't put as much continuous torque onto the bolts, which as you may have found... snaps them sometimes Depending where you are based, you could always use a self service garage with ramps (I've used Pit Start in Acton).

Great quality bits of kit from all reports but the most expensive... expensive = best ? who knows, these are just bars welded together so it's the welding joins which matter imho (and that they fit hah). When did you last have an alignment ? (if it's been 6+ months, might as well not that these bits affect it) You're going to be tackling some tough nuts and bolts that'll need some soaking in something like Plusgas over night.... I can't say it enough, make the job easier and faster by getting hold of an impact wrench with the correct impact sockets. My one was £65, mains and a set of deep impact sockets £20, plus I had a few normal length impact sockets.

How is that venturi pod thingy used ?

Sorry dude, I've been off work ill all week, first day back today. No problemo, my ones arrive today, I'll pop them on the scales tomorrow morning.

[media]http://youtu.be/5irYCQTjKUg[/media] Thank you !

How do you post the youtube clips so they are embedded ?

Warranty not much good to you if you are dead. I will never forget the day at Knockhill when my front Kinetix top arm snapped whilst approaching Duffus at 130mph. :scare: True, if I'm dead I'll just haunt everyone. Flipping heck that must have been SCARY AS FOOK !!!!!!!! What the hell happened ? (dodgy welding ?) Ah this one: http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/25934-125-mph-suspension-failure-on-my-zed-at-knockhill/

Ironically, I still haven't bought some I'll do some sexy poses with my ones... it MAY tempt you

Thread bump... I've just bought a pair of these, hopefully arriving tomorrow/sat. It's this part which ultimately has sold it to me: '12 month bearing warranty and lifetime warranty against arm failure'

You only need the first one imho (specifically for the gear changing feeling). My poly mount was £84 inc postage etc from the US but it's a bit noisy, the hardrace one won't be. Look at the difference: Easy to install:

As I said, adjust the pedal first, it's just been recently talked about and iirc there is a guide for it to. Try that, see how it goes for a little while. (I'm just saying that's what I'd do first btw)

If you've noticed it go higher up, yeah that sounds like a warning before the slipping. However, there are recent threads on adjusting the pedal itself. When my one is on the way out, I'll get the full kit that Clark sell.

Just so you know, the molyslip is probably worth plopping in for sure but most of the clunks come from the crappy transmission mount (and probably the diff bushings). I have a Torque Solution poly mount installed for the transmission, no clunks, no odd feeling going from 1-2 & 5-6 like it did before and a far more direct, positive shift. The downside is the transmission noise that's amplified into the cabin but it doesn't bother me. Jez at H-dev sells some Hardrace rubber parts which I probably should have gone with tbh. http://www.h-dev.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=25700 (transmission mount) http://www.h-dev.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=25701 (engine & transmission mount)

Just search - sorry to sound harsh but new people can't seem to do this, it's been asked or talked about for sure. Go to google (rather than using the forum one). type: site:350z-uk.com kinetix intake or for the US forums (more people have them): site:my350z.com kinetix intake

My one needs a new motor on the passenger side, Sly did the reset a few times and it would bugger up after several up/down.

Looks ok but I don't like it's snout.

I've not popped down there before - aside from a giant box of KK - how do you visit ?

I personally don't like two tone/colour wheels but either of them in a dark anthracite would look very cool (imho).

Cheers for the heads up, I did reply to a PM (not asking you to disappear ), not sure if you spotted it.