RobPhoboS

These guys in the States make the replacement for it: http://www.z1motorsports.com/350_g35/product_info.php?products_id=4280 It's just a breather hose for the booster but as to the diameter etc, not sure. I can measure it on Thur though.

Sorry to post it again - but compared to what it was like, I think my one looks oky doky now I gave it a quick clean and wrinkle finish paint (no primer, just a few coats). I'll do the bolts when Torqen has a kit sorted

More useful to post here - others can see it

If you've got some tools, I'd recommend taking the suspension off to test the shocks. Once compressed (without the spring obv), the piston rod should return quite quickly, my ones varied, one took a short while and didn't fully come out, others didn't even move after about 15mins No visible signs of anything wrong either. So I'm just saying, because you may think it's ok, one or two could be knackered, it's worth baring in mind as it doesn't take too long to get them off and test. In terms of what you want to do, up to you isn't it. The car is compromised in terms of handling out of the factory, as it's not an out and out sports car but can be adjusted (with cash) to be more that way As a side note, my car handles better for me, and rides more comfortably than it did before replacing lots of bits and pieces.

IF you want to adjust the geo properly, you're going to require adjustable parts - upper camber arms etc So technically you don't need to have new shocks but you will still need to spend a little anyway. What mileage is your car ? I ask because my OEM shocks had died at some point, and it was pretty much just riding on the springs which felt kind of hard. Now that I have the B6's on there, it feels SOOO much better (I installed parts progressively, so I could feel the changes incrementally).

Good tyres (MPSS for ex) Bilstein B6 shocks (on OEM springs or slightly lower springs like the Tein S) Eibach adjustable anti-roll-bar + Adjustable droplinks IF slightly lowered Geo (I also have other bits and pieces but I'd say that is a nice feel)

I'd go for an engine BUT I'd really want to get it from someone you can trust. Some guy over in Ireland could be fine and well but if that engine is fooked, so are you - nothing you can do. Plus, you might get some cash back for the old engine as someone may want it for a project, despite it's condition. Did ZMANALEX or any other traders offer a working engine ? Also, what is the specific reason the engine carked it ? (was it just crappy oil?)

Right, I'll have a separate post for this but just in summary, ds2500's are better. Admittedly I've also had the front disc's skimmed as well but it feels like I'm able to wipe off speed noticeably quicker. I've kept the old pads for track day back up though.

Sorry, yeah I saw the guide, I was just commenting that it's gone mental I may give it a whirl tonight.

It only took 25ltrs to fill it up, 150miles since I last filled her up. Wtf is wrong with the gauge! Hah

Yeti is brilliant I found a build thread of it: http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/226003-the-twins-and-yeti-rs/page-57

UKIP are most likely getting my vote. But tbh they are all a bunch of ****s

You're welcome, hopefully someone will come along anyway and post up some comments. And welcome to the forum

I can't be of any help but it'll be worth searching on the US forums as well (copy and paste into google): site:my350z.com darton site:350z-uk.com darton Should bring up some handy info for you

I've booked in with Sly to have it done. It's one of those jobs that will take me 2 days, rather than a couple of hours with him

What did you go to afterwards ?

I know it's a bit of an old thread but I'm going to try going from: EBC 'Premium brake rotors' F&R (same design as OEM brembo disc's) EBC Yellowstuff pads F&R (exactly 1 year old) To Ferodo DS2500's on the front but the discs are being skimmed by Marcus before fitting the pads. The current pads looked in good shape, plenty of material left, so I'll be keeping them perhaps to try out on a track day or just backups. I'm very curious as to how different/similar they will feel.

Just spotted this thread. IF my oem one requires replacing, does it matter which material (nylon or aluminium) ?

I'm certainly interested in various bits. Do you know if the bolt heads will be alley key style or normal hex/socket ?

I think if it's v1.5 it should work, anything higher and it doesn't seem to. My one was advertised as v1.5 but I think it was v2 or something like that, thus hasn't worked yet...

Many thanks again to Ewen & the guys at Clark Motorsport, very prompt delivery in time for the weekend spanner work

Good to know I love my B6's

I just ordered a whitline kit as well as I noticed this the other day. Seems odd to have this bushing filled with silicone stuff but at least we have a few solutions that doesn't cost loads

BUGGER IT.

Just check on their actual site - see if the numbers match up. I can't imagine the shocks being the same for the roadster/coupe as it's heavier no ?