RobPhoboS

Well done guys keep plugging away (no pun). thedon: see item no2 in my 'Odds and sods:' list - that'll help when it's dark cs2000: the other side isn't bad, it's a bit fiddly moving bits out of the way but if you just pull the wiring loom towards the cabin it gives you enough wiggle room. Remember I didn't get that very first green plug out either, I couldn't figure it out and by the time I realised he was chatting about it in the video I was well on my way. My set of 11" angled pliers arrived today as well (linked above). These will be bloody handy in the future for getting various clips off that are knuckle scrapingly out of reach

Do some searching on google - one of the first ones I saw was this: http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?299687-Top-gaiters-EBay-DIY-trim

Bit more info wouldn't be bad

Whilst very pretty and quite winding it's not particularly long, so it's probably better including it in part of a longer trip tbh.

PM'd regarding rear bushings

I had the stillen, sold it. Made a weird sound with decats (like a goose hissing!!!) and with a lighter exhaust (y back) caused issues with the exhaust rubbing at differing points around the stillen pipe. Get the flexi part replaced - cheapest option - do a search for costs.

I know for sure in my case it was me last week buggering it up, so lube it up and be gentle

I'll give you a tinkle tonight if you're free (probably 9ish) mate I've still got to rotate the callipers on the next bleed just in case there's some in the calliper pistons.

Ah, my o-ring was pinched and chipped. Replaced with one from that kit, seems good. Used oil to lube it.

Yeah it looks like there are two ways to solve that, one is by popping in the brembo anit-knockback springs and the other is to have a valve in the brake system that has a pre-pressure in it already but they are both for pure track use (imho). I think at the very least I need to clean down my callipers and inspect them, perhaps get them rebuilt by the trader on the forum if required: http://www.350z-uk.com/forum/226-brake-caliper-specialists/

You can smell it immediately, and in my initial post it was just dripping (not loads just a bit). Whereas the other night it was just the smell and slightly damp to the touch on that same bracket.

Hmm, maybe I need to find someone nearby with ds2500's so I can see how they are. I'm really looking for quite a solid pedal at the top. Ah I believe I may have found the term I was looking for: pad knockback http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/pad-knockback As when I double tap my brakes, they feel brilliant, hmm doing some reading.

I bought a Sealey STW1012 (usual places - ebay/amazon) I've not had a problem before just this time, so I wonder if it's because it requires a bit of oil on it or if I pinched it slightly.

Aye but sometimes it could have been those little jdm calipers or not the brembo pads. Can't assume anything!

What was your previous set-up ? Do you find these pads are compressible when cold/hot ? I'm finding, after bleeding my brake system around 6 times that my yellowstuff pads initial pedal travel is annoying (ie - I want it biting sooner rather than say 1/2 - 1 inch travel). So I'm wondering if this is just a compressibility characteristic of the pad compound ? (this is something Sly had suggested to me as well) I've not experienced any fade on these pads, and they really are reliable, I'm just not keen on that initial bite. Pads/Discs/Lines (SS) are only a year old, and I'll be bedding them in again anyway. If I decide to go for the DS2500's, Marcus is going to skim and inspect the discs first of all

Ahhh ok. For me up here in London I just have a dusting over the car which then had some rain splashes on it. When it's like this I'm glad my neighbour (back in Surrey) donated a gazebo for me to work on the car

Tight to you might be loose to somebody else though. Always best to follow the manufacturers torque settings for things like this. There are torque settings for a reason. Stuff that's been over tightened on my car has just snapped when I've undone it, or loose which is just as bad or dangerous. If you work on the car it's worth having a low-torque wrench as well as a bigger one for wheels/suspension etc. It's not expensive to do it properly.

Call me crazy (or just wrong in this case ) but can you not spray a load of QD over it and use a mf cloth (decent one) to get rid of the dusting ? (as you have lubricant on the paint so it shouldn't scratch)

I bought the same hole saw but my arbor/mandrel is the wrong size. Did you buy the one from the same eBay seller because the one in his picture has a couple of protuberances that look like they will stop the screw reaching the hole saw? It doesn't look like the arbor in the R&D video above... My stepdad had the connecting piece (luckily!) as I had totally forgotten about it. He just had some multi hole saw kit, which annoyingly had the same 51mm bit in there too. Unfortunately I can't give you any details as that stuff is back in Surrey.

I used the VHT wrinkle paint, no primer, just 3 coats or so. I did clean it with carb cleaner, rubbed it down a bit with some green sanding sponge type of stuff (similar to this http://www.halfords.com/motoring-travel/cleaning-body-repair/fillers-preparation/halfords-sanding-sponge-medium-coarse )... then carb cleaner again to get rid of the dust, masked it up properly and sprayed it.

You tell us

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xa3GpmKax1I

If you bought the carb cleaner you can clean up the threads on the plugs and the edges of the metal surfaces without fear of an unwanted chemical in the engine. Spray it onto a microfiber cloth, wipe it all down as carefully as possible. If you saw my rocker cover thread, I just used cling film over any openings.

Well I bought a 225pc assortment box of O-rings that should arrive tomorrow as a 'just-in-case', and contacted Clark as well http://www.amazon.co..._pr_product_top