RobPhoboS

Heh I was looking at titanium bolts as well, fed up of these nissan chocolate ones

If you're popping new pads on it would be wise to have the discs skimmed properly. Also probably a good idea to say what sort of price you're willing to pay for now ?

I've got a similar sound coming from the front offside, I'll be inspecting it on Saturday. Annoying isn't it !

If they are Brembo's, Sly from Kaizer Motors recommended the Brembo pads

Hehe I understand. If you were down my way I'd help out, it's easy to do, just takes time.

I have a Cobra, it doesn't look like that as there are more connecting/join points on my one at least. Also this looks like 2.5" which is smaller than the Cobra.

Yeah more than enough. As long as you don't go mad, 1ltr should be plenty. (useful just to have a bit extra I guess)

I had issues in the past with: 1-2 6-5 Improvements I made: Nissan gearbox oil Transmission mount (I opted for a polyurethane one - too harsh probably for a daily driver, Hardrace make a decent rubber one). The OEM one is crap (imho), gives changes sloppy feeling and grinding slightly in my case. Note - it may transmit a bit of extra vibration into the cabin, my one does but it's a different material, best to look up some reviews of this. No problems now that it's out. OEM = pap Hardrace rubber one - for example:

1ltr would do you in whatever you pick, you may as well use the same (1.5ltr to be safe or full flush). It'll be about £15, opieoils - can use our discount code too. I'm not ever going to bother with Motul RBF600 again as it's meant to be done every 6 months (or after a couple of track days), it's too expensive for my needs.

I've no idea, could just be a custom Powerflow thing, try cleaning up the backbox to see if there's a branded name on it (could be on top though).

I'll ask him just to wind him up in a mo

Heh no idea. When was that ? Also, just to add that Wheels In Motion are happy to work/geo on a track only car if you can get it down there.

Didcot Ok, well if you're still struggling, my good friend John runs: http://www.thorney.ms (only just up the road from you) If you do contact him, just let him know Rob with the 350z recommend you

Yep, I should have mentioned this as well, especially regarding that thin edging. I was very, very careful, and like yourself I used the RTV on that exposed side as well (loads of it ). I used the black RTV as I bought it before Adrian was including it in the kit, and that stuff is rated upto 600°F (315C) - the engine oil shouldn't be getting up to that heat If you're regularly tracking it, a Mishimoto oil cooler would be advisable anyway. And yep, it's also why I'll be changing the oil/filter again to ensure it's all clean in there I think rev-up's+ have a limp mode I think with high oil temp.

Yeah, I got my one from another seller but it's the same thing

Well I'd guess the thing is, you'll be adding weight no matter what. Someone on here recommended 'Silent Coat', cheap enough to test out (ebay/amazon). Depending what tyres you're on as well, I found the original Bridgestones were awful (MPSS now).

Definitely ! Alan - cheers, there's a bunch of stuff I've not listed that I've done but one day I'll get around to a 'build' thread.

Feels great to me, far shorter throw (apx 40%) and it's only slotting into reverse which has a little resistance (literally 1-2mm need filing off). I'll post up a few pics on the weekend. I prefer it over the OEM throw for sure. (I've kept it as a -just-in-case item though) If timing works out, I'm often in Farnham/Guildford so you're welcome to 'cop a feel'

Scroll down to post #14 : http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/97306-ebay-short-shifter-kit-review/#entry1692884 I don't recommend this cheapy one but definitely recommend the Torque Solution, single piece. ---------------------- Hey guys, so a few weeks ago I decided I wanted a short shifter after driving a friends beautiful NSX. Not that I think the stock shifter is a long throw but I prefer the feel of less travel, so lets see what a cheap kit is like to test the waters. So I chose one from an ebay shop, around £28 and it looks like a direct copy of the B&M/Fidanza/SpecD but of course at a price you can try, bin it if it sucks/falls apart. Several weeks on, I'm pleased to say I'm genuinely happy with it. I also have the Torque Solutions transmission mount, as well as a Hosetechnik braided clutch line (no vague shifts or feeling of grinding or reluctance in any gears now). The transmission mount in this particular flavour WILL give extra vibration, transmission grumble in the cabin. I believe hardrace make a decent rubber one, which Jez looks like he can supply at H-dev Lastly I also have the Blox Type-R Style knob on it as well (450g !!! it's a beast). You can follow several different instructions: http://site.specdtun...hortShifter.pdf (funny intro in vid ) However - I strongly advise to REUSE the OEM mounting plate on top of it (this is why you get the longer bolts - which I may add, sling a washer or two underneath for strengthening). Once the OEM guiding plate is on top, don't tighten the 3 bolts up, just keep them loose enough so you can move the guide plate around. Don't over tighten the gear linkage from underneath the car 13nm. Extra tips: (nicked from US forum) 1) Move the shifter into the 6th gear position, and make the notch sticking out of the shifter level with the shifter plate "guide" by slightly pushing down on the shifter. Move the shifter plate accordingly to make sure the "guide" on the plate is touching the shifter. Once that is done, tighten the bolt on the rear right of the plate (enough to keep it in place). 2) Now move the shifter into the 5th gear position and align the shifter notch with the plate. When it is aligned and touching,tighten the bolt at the front of the guide plate (closest to the engine). **side note** The reason the shifter notch has to touch the side of the plate is so that it guides the shifter into the 6th gear from fifth. Also when you push down to go into reverse the notch goes underneath the plate to make it go and hold in reverse gear. Once there is the correct alignment the other gears are in synchronization as well. 3) Tighten the left bolt now, torque them all down to 8-10nm. After you have tightened them all down try going through all of the gears and see if it feels right. Make sure when your going from 5th to 6th the shifter notch is touching and going along the plate guide for the proper alignment of all the gears. You'll feel it if it's not quite right. Now I do have 1 minor gripe with the kit. You may need to file off a little bit of the largest part of the shifter in the bottom right as it may catch the OEM plate a little bit when shifting into reverse. We aren't talking about needing to dremel it, just a little shaving. p.s Because it's from ebay - the world WILL explode because you've put it on your car.

Written guide on here to: http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/150-diy-kinetix-hi-flow-cats-diy-install-guide/

Spray some Plus Gas on the bolts (so get underneath/over it with some goggles on ) - and a couple of extension bars will be required. (if you search, esp US forums - you may need 2 or 3 typical extension bars).

Better to name and shame rather than speculate. I've only seen things on other forums (typically Ichiba, vid on youtube as well), and over here ZMANALEX's v1 Kinetix arms (they looked in poor corroded condition anyway).

I have the driftworks pair, and a few others do as well. Wheels in Motion set the car up for me and thought it was a good product for adjustability.

If you did the thing I mentioned about the fuse, fire it up a few times only a bit will dribble out. I just wrapped clingfilm over it all, no probs.