KyleR

I went for £4.50 because it surprises me sometimes how little extra it costs to send things abroad compared to within the UK.

I just use an old Antler leather one that I got free with a PC laptop nearly 10 years ago, does the job. It has a velcro strip that can be positioned to be level with the side of the laptop to stop it sliding about and also a velcro strap to hold it down in place. Apples prices are a joke for speccing up. Never ever upgrade the RAM, it'll cost less than half the price if you buy it from Crucial

I've heard people speak of this, I've also heard of people using full coilover set ups without any issues and I'm yet to see evidence of what can go wrong. I understand the reason it may cause issues, but as far as I know there's no failures with people using this set up

I seen lots of these on Hondas and Corsas, I laugh every time because they look naff!

They match well to the black canards What next? Spraying the side steps and V2 lip black?

HEAT! Lots of heat! I had the same problem, heat fixed one, the other snapped, so it's a good idea to have a few second hand spares just incase.

Hmmm, I believe the threshold for winters to come more effective is around 7 degrees, right? So how long would you have to drive on a set of MPSS for example, if the temperature was 2-3 to get them above that 7 degree barrier that they become more effective than the winters? Obviously from the get go the winters will be better, especially if there is a dusting of snow or possibly some ice. But, if it's just a regular boring cold UK day, maybe even wet, won't the MPSS be up to temperature pretty sharpish and therefore safer and grippier than the winters? I'm not having a go about winters here by the way, this just literally popped into my head and got me thinking. I also know there have been many many tests and studies on winters vs summers and there was recently a good video posted too, but, are these tests done on cold tyres?

Possibly a new headlamp if the mounts are broken.

The 350z was updated to the 370z, not discontinued, it's a natural progression

Geez that'll be one hell of a carry on I wonder how much they'll charge for an exhaust to go in the hull?

Not me, but I think there are a couple of screws once you remove the centre.

Downhill in 6th will get you almost unlimited mpg until either the hill ends or the car slows down to around 800rpm.

Hmmm interesting, able to help more than one member I hope? Or at least me

Carbon roof panels that don't cost the same as a full bodykit would be awesome And I know carbon is a bit of a bitch to work with sometimes, but copy those CS Bottomline skirts

Some have had 3/4 size plates for years with no trouble, others have fitted them and been pulled the next day lol not worth the risk in my opinion, but I may get a slimmed down plate in the future that still meets the minimum requirements.

I've heard of people clear wrapping entire brand new cars. Apparently it protect the paint very well from chips and it wont cost much to rewrap if it starts to look a bit tatty. I'd wait a month or so after getting it sprayed before wrapping to let the paint fully harden though.

Small update, nothing exciting, but managed to get the plate attached without any contact to the bumper. It's also completely removable in about 1 minute with a 15/16 (or mm =) wrench for shows etc. I saw Stillen had an option for this, but it was gonna come in at about £70, or the other option was one of the Show and Go plates that Tarmac sells for about £50 ish for a manual one. However, I didn't fancy having to chop up the grill and remove the bumper again to fit, so Stillen style it was. here is the Stillen one which attaches to the toe hook hole: http://www.stillen.com/products/lic-plate-relocators/no-drill-licence-plate-relocator-99918/ I have a family friend who does Stainless work, so I measured up what I need made. 25mm bar 170mm long with the end 37.3mm lathed down and died with M16x2mm thread. In the other end I had a M12 hole tapped and a metal plate made 200mm x 75mm with a recess hole drilled right in the centre for a modified M12 allen bolt to fit flush into. Pretty simple really and was much much cheaper than the Stillen version. Anyway, here it is all fitted. I'm very happy with it. The plate is in the perfect position and theres no risk of damage to the bumper as there is with double sided tape etc I also fitted these a couple of months ago, but forgot to update at the time. Nothing special, just aluminium kick plates. I like the look of them, brightens it up a little bit and its very subtle

Chilli's looks awesome! Bumper and skirts look smooth yet still aggressive

Mine drops like a stone to between 1/2 and 3/4 then takes its time to lower any more. when the light comes on theres usually still about 15 liters left. It's an 80L tank so theres always plenty in there and it's best to calculate based on miles travelled and the MPG reading.

It'll probably polish off quite handy. If you're concerned just bring along some and give it a bit of elbow grease.

I think that video broke my gag reflex. You can thank him for that later

They'll fit with a stupidly (dangerous) stretched tyre and about 5 degrees of camber I imagine with an et20. That'll give about 18-19mm more poke than mine and I'm pretty flush on 10.5" et20 rears. I just wouldn't do it because of the stretch required. You could however pull the arch as well as rolling it and then you could run sensible tires and camber, but theres the risk of needing to respray the rear quarter is the crap paint cracks.

We need more info, for exampe, are they 5x112, 5x114.3 or 5x120? What is the offset? e.g. et20, et30 etc etc.

There's something in this. A contract to purchase is not complete until the package has been delivered, so the seller is still liable for the item until you get it, so they must replace it.

I give up, whats the tag?