KyleR

It looks pretty good, but those images will have been taken from the photo mode on PC with the graphics turned up to 11 and there was something off with the ring. It may have just been the unusual interior camera being set back in the car in the centre, but the track looked stretched or something I'll be interested to see the console versions and some reviews about the driving experience.

As others said, get it to a body shop and they'll see if it can be polished out. If not, £100 a panel would be a nice price since their doing the whole side of the car. I've had both front quarters and nearside rear done for £100 each at different times.

Oh thats weird, Will's has white stickers on his dampers. Special treatment I think

There are a few on here who have money no object Zeds with Japspeed decats and are very happy with them. Apparently it's one of the only parts they do that fit

I assume you mean the plugs from 5 and 6 not 3 and 6? Anyway, what Jez says, new rocker covers required for about £180 each I think plus another tenner or so for each gasket, one required for each side of the engine.

There's a bit too much elastic banding going on, especially in the last couple of laps in 5+ lap races. They slow way down until you pass them then they're on your tail until the finish. They also need to sort out the seasonal racing where you can pass them with all the aids on and still get to the top of leaderboards.

It's been done, so I'm pretty sure it's all interchangeable. Now whether you can change 2 parts of the c/c to facelift and leave the pre facelift gear surround, I don't know. But if you do get the whole lot, you'll also need the white control box from the facelift car for the heating dials, or else it'll not plug in or work.

Surely the local locksmith could get into in in 5 minutes and won't charge the ridiculous AA/RAC rates. Failing that, an advert on Gumtree for a car thief will probably be answered in 5 minutes if you offer them £50

I can't remember which car that was but i think the most it took for any car was about 5-6 runs, but I'm using a full race seat and wheel which makes it a bit easier.

Yup, got them all done, waiting for more easy money. Think I'm 89% complete after doing rain masters today.

The days bonus thing is pissing me off. I've logged onto the game every day since it started and it still drops back from 200% to 170 or even 150 some days

Yup, give it a couple of days and there'll be an update in game, I'm guesstimating it'll be on the 9th.

That's what I figured. I think they're only about 10-15mm drop which isn't too bad and is supposed to be "tuned" for the 350. I've only heard of one person having them on here and that's when he was selling them. As for better set ups, if your budget is Nismo suspension which I think can be had for less than £800 new, I'd suggest BC coilovers from one if our traders, they're recommended by many people.

Very common place for rust on the 350's, had mine repaired in the summer and he had to cut out over 2 inches of metal to get rid of the rotten section and weld another section in. Cost me just under £200 and I had all the wee dents and imperfections fixed at the same time which only added another £50.

Any particular reason you're looking the Nismos?

Got mine too, if it's not too cold I might stick them on later. I'm pretty sure these are the exact same as the circuit sports ones, they have the same orange sticker.

Unusual for a a US resident to join the UK club, it's usually the other way round as the US forums have a lot of great deals and knowledge too. However the atmosphere on that forum wouldn't be quite as good as this one Port up the link to that stubby, seems an absolute bargain at $3!

personally I'd get it in for a major service with all fluids replaced (engine oil, diff, gearbox, brake fluid, coolant, top up power steering fluid) air and oil filter and plugs. That way you're covering all the bases since you're not too sure of whats been done or not.

I quite like it, but there would need to be some serious strengthening going on or it would surely twist a bit when pushing it.

Is there any resistance when you pull the inside handle? Like as if it was still attached to the cable or does it just flap about?

Sounds to me like the handle has come detached from the cable that operates the locks, however I'm pretty sure there is a cable for each handle plus another for each licking mechanism so that would mean all 4 cables have cone undone

i think Steve at Redline might still have one. He had a brand new one a while ago for a discounted price because it had a small dent in it, which isn't really a big deal for something thats under the car.

Weight saving?

Any idea on the manufacturer?

Is there any reason why the last service was almost 3 years ago? Maybe the oil has been changed since by yourself?