KyleR

28 and it's my second car, first since passing my test... 2 weeks ago

It's a perfect example of the roadster in the best colour in my opinion, however I think it's downfall is the fact it is a roadster. I believe the Coupe's a much nicer shape and it probably would have sold a long time ago. With the roof down it's stunning, but with the roof up I think the back end looks a little odd. Anyway, I hope you get it sold sooner rather than later.

I flash and toot everytime I drive past Shelbourne Nissan, not once have I got a response On a more serious note, I've only seen one Zed whilst being in mine since I got it. He was behind me so couldn't flash, but I did wave and flash hazards to no response...

Try Pro Bolt for some stainless ones or if you have the cash, go for Titanium

Buying prices are very good at the moment, I only bought my Zed 3 weeks ago. Black 04 GT with 67k for £6.5. You can knock £500 off if it's a non GT and in my region, colour isn't affecting the price at all. Ginger, white, black, silver and gunmetal all listed at £7k for 04's with around 60k, private or trade.

I have husky skinned seats in my Zed...

I actually wonder why Nissan didn't make the roof black in the first place considering there is no beige anywhere else on the trim

I would go 2-way in the rear and 3-way in the doors. Not sure of how many speakers the base model has, but the Bose has 6 + 1. 1 Sub, 2 behind and 2 in each door (one 6.5" and one tweeter I believe) The only problem with fitting door speakers in the limited fitting depth you'll have. I'm not sure exactly way it is but I'm sure I read it on the forum somewhere. Something like these would be good for your doors providing they're not too deep. They are also 5mm too wide, but still may fit. These ones also have 35 watt RMS and a max output of 300 watts which makes them upgrade proof if you decide to change out the HU too. http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... 65707#tab1 P.s - yes, I believe component means there is a separate tweeter to be fitted in near by.

I think ZMANALEX has OEM ones in both colours if I can remember correctly from a thread I was trolling. I however decided to go with a £30 one from Richbrook. Looks better than the Nismo/Sparco/OMP etc in my opinion.

Is the drop link the same thing as stabilizer bar link and sway bar link, just different names, as they all look the same in the pictures to me, but could be just a generic photo.

TBH i think with the Bose set up it must be the HU as it's made by Clarion. I have the GT and the sound isn't that great, especially the bass. I really can't see Bose putting out crap speakers considering the quality of their home audio equipment, so I think someday when I get the cash i'll try a different HU then see, and maybe change the amp because it's pretty puny. Plus, I don't think i'd have the heart to remove 7 Bose speakers and replace them with Sony or whatever, to me that just seems like a step backwards. As for the stock audio, I'd go for a full swap out, HU and speakers, but if I couldn't afford to all at once, i'd go for the speakers first, starting with the rear to get a bit more bass.

Booked it in for a service on the 30th and they'll have a look at the lights and other problems including the rust on the bonnet that I pointed out. My cousins fiancé is a mechanic there, so hopefully he'll have the time to come have a look at everything and get it sorted before I bring it into Nissan and save me a few quid.

I can see this is also going to cost me a fortune! Even if it turns out to be just the bushes which aren't TOO expensive, I'd have to either buy the tool or pay someone to do it. This coupled with getting the lights sorted for MoT is going to see me pounding the credit card again this month

Think I have the same problem, is it a hard job to replace the bushes if it turns out that's the problem, or the arm for that matter?

Would it really be cheaper to buy and fit a complete HID kit rather than buy a ballast from a breakers? (providing it was a blown/fused ballast in the first place) Yep defo, if somebody has went to nissan and got a price they would have shat their pants at the price. Most people wont go round breakers yards. Id hazard a guess they have taken it to an auto shop to get repaired and the guys and thrown in any old crap tbh And that is the very reason you, me and many others join forums regarding the car/bike that they own, the money that can be saved is astronomical.

Cheers, I've already PM'd Alex, I'll try Lee too.

Would it really be cheaper to buy and fit a complete HID kit rather than buy a ballast from a breakers? (providing it was a blown/fused ballast in the first place)

Thanks Chris, so look like I'm just going to have to buy a new ballast and bulb connector or even 2nd hand. Think I'll still have to strip out the headlamp to fit it all though. Has anyone any idea why someone would do this? I mean, taking out the factory HID ballast and fitting a cheap HID kit?

Can any one tell me if it's possible to convert a standard halogen headlamp to xenon if Leonk is right? I'm sure that would be much cheaper than buying a whole new headlamp! Edit: I just checked the headlight glass, both say D2R and H7 underneath. Can someone with an import or who didn't have Xenons as standard take a few seconds of they're time and check theirs please? I'm assuming the lamp is ok though, as I believe the high beam is an H7, so maybe I just need the OEM ballast and connector lead or even better just the connector lead if it fits the aftermarket HID kit.

Actually Leonk that's a good point, I guess it's possible, but the bumper and side panels seem to be originals but the far side wheel well was only put in last year going by the date on the sticker on the inside that I found when taking it apart, I just put it down to being broke when changing the bulb out or something. Now I'm starting to wonder what else is wrong!

Ok, well this one is definitely UK with HIDs as standard as the near side has a proper ballast with the braided lines.

Hey mike, it's a UK Zed. Maybe I will PM ZMANALEX, would it be ok to just pm him the link to this thread? I'll not be home until Sunday night and no computer here and it's pretty to write on this blasted phone!

Hey, when I purchased my Zed, it had two different temperature lights, so I bought new matching ones and went to fit them today. Took the wheel wells outs and removed the near side bulb, then removed the far side wheel well and went to remove the bulb only to find it is completely different to the near side! There was no silver box on the back of the bulb just two wires where the thick braided silver cable was and down below is what I can only suggest is a HID conversion kit! The thinner silver cable is still in place but not connected. Why would anyone take out the original HID system in the far side light and replace it with a f***ing HID conversion kit? I've attached some photo's to show the bulb I removed from the far side. Even if it was a HID kit but accepted the normal HID bulbs that wouldn't be too much of a problem but probably still get me a bit rattled! Can someone please tell me what I need or even better point me in the right direction or where I can find the parts and maybe a few prices? Cheers.

Kuhmo came in 15th These tyres seem to have a horrible rep but appear to perform just fine with a total score around 6m off the top spot, and they're CHEAP!

Just did this mod, it's a great guide and I found it very easy, and this is me, who is completely useless at DIY things. I am however pretty slim and can see how hard it would be for someone a bit "larger" to fit upside down into the footwell. Took it for a little spin just for a couple of miles and I'm not totally sure I haven't went too far with it. There is no gear grind and doesn't seem to pull at all with the clutch in, even if I drop down from 6th to 2nd, but with the clutch in it does idle a little higher than normal when the car is moving, maybe this is normal and never noticed before? When stopped it's idling at about 700 which is correct, but more like 750-800 when moving, no change when I move the shifter into different gears. As I said, I only took her for a very short run out of precaution and may just need to warm up. Does anything sound suspicious that I have mentioned that may indicate i've lowered it too much, before I take it out for a proper drive and possibly burn the clutch out? BTW, it's not sitting too much lower than the brake, up to 10mm i'd say but no way of accurately measuring it. Kyle