KyleR

Would it really be cheaper to buy and fit a complete HID kit rather than buy a ballast from a breakers? (providing it was a blown/fused ballast in the first place) Yep defo, if somebody has went to nissan and got a price they would have shat their pants at the price. Most people wont go round breakers yards. Id hazard a guess they have taken it to an auto shop to get repaired and the guys and thrown in any old crap tbh And that is the very reason you, me and many others join forums regarding the car/bike that they own, the money that can be saved is astronomical.

Cheers, I've already PM'd Alex, I'll try Lee too.

Would it really be cheaper to buy and fit a complete HID kit rather than buy a ballast from a breakers? (providing it was a blown/fused ballast in the first place)

Thanks Chris, so look like I'm just going to have to buy a new ballast and bulb connector or even 2nd hand. Think I'll still have to strip out the headlamp to fit it all though. Has anyone any idea why someone would do this? I mean, taking out the factory HID ballast and fitting a cheap HID kit?

Can any one tell me if it's possible to convert a standard halogen headlamp to xenon if Leonk is right? I'm sure that would be much cheaper than buying a whole new headlamp! Edit: I just checked the headlight glass, both say D2R and H7 underneath. Can someone with an import or who didn't have Xenons as standard take a few seconds of they're time and check theirs please? I'm assuming the lamp is ok though, as I believe the high beam is an H7, so maybe I just need the OEM ballast and connector lead or even better just the connector lead if it fits the aftermarket HID kit.

Actually Leonk that's a good point, I guess it's possible, but the bumper and side panels seem to be originals but the far side wheel well was only put in last year going by the date on the sticker on the inside that I found when taking it apart, I just put it down to being broke when changing the bulb out or something. Now I'm starting to wonder what else is wrong!

Ok, well this one is definitely UK with HIDs as standard as the near side has a proper ballast with the braided lines.

Hey mike, it's a UK Zed. Maybe I will PM ZMANALEX, would it be ok to just pm him the link to this thread? I'll not be home until Sunday night and no computer here and it's pretty to write on this blasted phone!

Hey, when I purchased my Zed, it had two different temperature lights, so I bought new matching ones and went to fit them today. Took the wheel wells outs and removed the near side bulb, then removed the far side wheel well and went to remove the bulb only to find it is completely different to the near side! There was no silver box on the back of the bulb just two wires where the thick braided silver cable was and down below is what I can only suggest is a HID conversion kit! The thinner silver cable is still in place but not connected. Why would anyone take out the original HID system in the far side light and replace it with a f***ing HID conversion kit? I've attached some photo's to show the bulb I removed from the far side. Even if it was a HID kit but accepted the normal HID bulbs that wouldn't be too much of a problem but probably still get me a bit rattled! Can someone please tell me what I need or even better point me in the right direction or where I can find the parts and maybe a few prices? Cheers.

Kuhmo came in 15th These tyres seem to have a horrible rep but appear to perform just fine with a total score around 6m off the top spot, and they're CHEAP!

Just did this mod, it's a great guide and I found it very easy, and this is me, who is completely useless at DIY things. I am however pretty slim and can see how hard it would be for someone a bit "larger" to fit upside down into the footwell. Took it for a little spin just for a couple of miles and I'm not totally sure I haven't went too far with it. There is no gear grind and doesn't seem to pull at all with the clutch in, even if I drop down from 6th to 2nd, but with the clutch in it does idle a little higher than normal when the car is moving, maybe this is normal and never noticed before? When stopped it's idling at about 700 which is correct, but more like 750-800 when moving, no change when I move the shifter into different gears. As I said, I only took her for a very short run out of precaution and may just need to warm up. Does anything sound suspicious that I have mentioned that may indicate i've lowered it too much, before I take it out for a proper drive and possibly burn the clutch out? BTW, it's not sitting too much lower than the brake, up to 10mm i'd say but no way of accurately measuring it. Kyle

But as I said in another post, Lex, is has grinded going into 5th from 4th before, only once or twice, but that may be due to me not doing it much. Currently the double clutch/rev drop method has been working, and since i'm obviously not in a hurry if skipping gears it shouldn't be a problem.

I'll have to go have a look at the service book then, but I can't remember seeing anything other than the stamp section filled in, even though some of the services have been down by Nissan.

Dont ask those kind of questions its normally a very depressing and sobering answer.. All soon forgotten when you jump in the 370 though I'm expecting something silly like £4k, which is exactly why I sold my Ducati to buy the Zed rather than trading in.

I have to agree with WINKJ, I too think it's overpriced, but as he said in the add, doesn't need it sold so of course try and get everything he can. I someone comes to look at it and thinks they are saving a few thousand by offering £9.5, everyone is happy. The only reason I say it's overpriced is because here in Northern Ireland, a mint 04 GT with 80k and GT pack can be had for £6k and I got my almost mint 04 GT with 67k for £6.5 and there was also a similar looking 05 GT with full wide arch bodykit on 33k miles that needed a new clutch for £5.6. I wish I had the money when I seen it as it was easily worth £7k+ even with it needing a clutch fitted.

What if it hasn't been serviced by Nissan all it's life? The book is fully stamped up to date but do you think they would likely be a bit more picky? Oh, I also have a spot or 2 on the roof, obviously this can't be just replaced like the bonnet, anything they can do about it short of sanding it all down and respray, which I think is unlikely.

It did grind once going into 5th from 4th but most of the time it's ok, if I let the revs drop out before moving into 6th it's fine 100% of the time... so far! I know I could easily let the revs drop or change up through the gears 1 at a time, but it's a pretty big habit to try and break. Plus, who is to say it won't get worse and grind in every gear. I'll maybe get Nissan to change out the gear oil at the next service which is only a few weeks away to see if that makes much of a change.

I don't mean to pry or be overly nosey, but out of pure curiosity, what kind of trade in price did you get?

Thanks Danny, so how much are you expecting to pay for another gearbox?

Hey, after going for a long drive on Sunday I noticed when changing from 4th to 6th the gears would grind pretty bad unless I let the revs drop before moving into gear. Now after searching the forum i've pretty much diagnosed it as the syncro problem. But can't seem to find rough prices as to how much it would cost to get fixed. The car is a 04 GT with 67k miles that I bought last Saturday, so I really don't have the cash lying around to throw a new gearbox in and there is no warranty currently on the car. Thanks

Oh ok, I tend to be bait lazy with my manuals and just leave them in the car and download a pdf incase i need to look something up, must have downloaded a US manual...

I have a few spots on my 04 too, but I'm only after buying the car so not original owner, do you think I should have any extra problems trying to make a claim?

I think you have to hold down the actual button that you use to cycle through the read outs, then use the bottom button to change the time, tapping the top button again to move to minutes. I'm almost sure this is how I did it, I'll check later...

My manual says to used at least 91 RON, it's 95 as standard here in the UK isnt it? I don't understand why 95 RON would present a problem, but obviously it does. No idea what my cars been ran on for the first 8 years of its life but looks like its time for Premium 98/99 from now on.

The pin code is 1234 incase you or any other new owners are wondering. I couldn't find it listed anywhere else so did some trial and error to work it out.