ilogikal1

I thought it was ridiculous enough when I assumed it meant tread pattern, but choosing a tyre based on the looks of the side wall?!?

I would recommend not covering it at all, personally.

It’ll need to come in below the BMW for Toyota, so I’m expecting “underpowered” RWD with skinny wheels to provide the entertainment ethos to run through still, tbh.

So in about 10 years you might be breaking even... Can someone get Mrs Lancaster to check with the kitchen? [/Groundhog Day reference]

Better still, ignore all the costs of running a second car and it practically pays you! Not sure running a second car is a practical or reasonable solution to a “I don’t want to pay this much not use my Z as I want” thread, but hey ho. A much more sensible suggestion is to change jobs and move house so you have those clear roads all the time. Initial outlay aside it’s the perfect solution...

Nothing to see here, move along. Move along.

Tinted bubs in tinted lenses aren't very bright. Who'd have thought that?!?

I’m pretty sure Dan’s on commission from Michelin actually, so might stand to gain something...

No part of that makes sense. Especially the part about Dan not being wrong...)

The side profile of the first one just looks ridiculous, and it doesn't look any better in the previous photo either. The spoiler that is (well, the broken suspension too actually, but off topic). It doesn't look like it's the right proportions for the car at all, if it was a photoshop I'd say they've got the scale completely wrong. It's a solid no from me. The duckbill looks far better.

F1 does though, they don’t pay when Seb falls over himself.

Aside from the lack of prize money in certain cases, that’s no different to any other motorsport though. I can’t think of a single one that compensates competitors for self-inflicted damage to vehicles.

My apologies, you did indeed cover shampoo and degreaser already. Autowash is good, personally I prefer Car Chem myself as you really can dilute it down to a hell of a lot, so it lasts forever! But Autowash is certainly not a bad shampoo or a waste of money at all. If you can’t work inside and you’re happy with your current sealant, stick with that to be honest. C5 would be my recommendation, however Gyeon Rim is almost as good and usually cheaper from PB once postage is considered - however one of our traders on here, Wax and Shine, might do a few products to interest you and negate the postage costs. Menz are good polishes and are my second choice, however I have moved onto Scholl from Menz. Scholl are a little more forgiving and easier to work with, and being a little oilier tend not to dry out at all whereas Menz can occasionally if you’re not careful. Scholl S20 & S30 on Lake Country Hydrotech tangerine and crimson pads are perfect combinations for the horribly soft Nissan paint. G1 is a very good glass sealant, but be warned you’ll run out of G2 quickly. Personally I find Gyeon View a much better kit for deep cleaning and sealing glass, and it’s usually cheaper too. You’ll have plenty of Cleanse in the kit to do all the windows, inside and out, and some. Not ideal to apply any coating outside, but so long as it’s dry it shouldn’t cause much of a problem. I’d still recommend something like Crystal for the interior glass though. For tyres, degrease with Surfex HD first to ensure the tyre is clean, then force cure (heat gun or hair drier) for it to last a fair bit longer. Leather cleaner - for deep cleaning then Gyeon Leather Cleaner, for more regular cleaning Dr Leather Wipes (wear gloves or smell like leather for weeks, it really gets into the pores of your skin!). You already seem to know it, so I’ll forgo the usual conditioner speech. Metalwork on the Z is pretty much just the exhaust, unless you’ve modified anything. That would depend on what the current state is and if you’re interested in cleaning it up and/or sealing. Grit guards - can’t stand them. They promote poor technique at the very least; I don’t use them at all. If you’re using more than the top inch or two of water in the rinse bucket (and using the 2 bucket method) then you’re using too much. Use your other hand to loosen any trapped grit from the mitt if you feel it necessary but your mitt should never be anywhere near the grit towards the bottom on the bucket and there’s no need for the water in the bucket to be moving much, if at all, so the grit should never come back up to the surface even without grit guards. If the water is that dirty, it should be changed out. If you feel the need to use them at all, leave them at the bottom of the bucket to “trap” the dirt (supposedly) and rinse your mitt in the top couple of inches of water only.

You've already mentioned getting snow foam, that's your pre-wash. If you're happy with what you've got, stick with that. There's plenty available but it depends on what you value as to what will be "amazing", so stick with what you know and like. However, that said; Gyeon CanCoat. Okay, not strictly (actually) a sealant but rather a very simple to use coating. Considerably better than spray sealants in every single way... if you can work indoors. No benefit if you're using sealant. Car Chem Revolt is better, but Korrosol is a good second place. You won't go wrong with Korrosol, so if it's cheaper to order it all together then go for that. Decon reoutine and/or compound will do more to remove LSP's than Reset, panel wipe and IPA. The purpose of those three products is to remove any residual oils after polishing rather then removing LSP. However there's no point in removing old LSP if you're just going to put the same over the top again anyway, and as you've not mentioned polishes at all don't worry about this stage at all. Seal your wheels properly, as you do the panels, and you won't need any dedicated wheel cleaner. When you want to do a deep clean just use fallout remover and clay, otherwise just a standard car shampoo will be more than enough to keep your wheels clean. Save your pennies. If you're happy with what you've got, stick with that, etc, etc. However note there's no benefit to using a ceramic wax over a sealant, so use one or the other instead of both, or get a cheap wax to be the sacrificial layer if you want to use both. Only; Shampoo - Car Chem 1900:1 for a pure shampoo or Gyeon Bathe+ if you want something to add some protection. Degreaser - Bilt Hamber Sufex HD. Tar remover - AutoSmart Tardis (don't get it from eBay unless it's a trusted dealer who happens to trade on there, you're unlikely to actually receive Tardis!). Compound - depends on if you're polishing by hand or by machine... or at all. But Scholl copounds. Glass cleaner - Auto Finesse Crystal or Gyoen Glass. Tyre dressing - Gyeon Tire. And then there's the interior, metalwork and engine bay....

Maybe s/he wants to invest in TfL...

The colour of the paint won't make any difference at all, so if you've got White Diamond then use that. Colour-specific products are (predominantly) just marketing. Those that are "colour charged" (and there are a small hand full of waxes) are so minimal that you won't notice it at all unless used on a pristine white surface with multiple (i.e. >6) layers (https://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=217518). I've never seen any glaze demonstrate any colour differences. Also, now that you've found it, give the SRP to someone else. Preferably someone who doesn't care about their paintwork... or someone you just don't like.

I’m more concerned by the arm growing out of her ear.

Firstly, leave the AG SRP where it is. Don’t even waste the time to find it to throw it away. If you’re using wax, I’d suggest a nice oily glaze underneath rather than polishing by hand (different story when you’ve got a machine polisher though). My recommendation would be AF Ultra Glaze or Poorboys Black Hole (because it smells better than White Diamond). Blue Velvet will be fine and you’ll be hard pushed to tell the difference between waxes without being side by side, so if you’ve got it just use that.

You could at least let the OP respond before hijacking his for sale thread!

The only problem with that is none of it will happen. A new Z car isn’t anywhere near being a priority for Nissan, especially with the abysmal numbers the ‘70 has made. Large capacity ICE motors are a massive risk when the industry is looking to supplement more efficient motors, so 3 litre is a stretch and turbos are the previous generation tech; it’s all about batteries now. Any new model taking turbos instead of electric will not be well received by the general public. 399bhp is just wishful thinking. H&S will see that it’s not lighter (at least not light enough make any noticeable difference). £40k simply wont offer enough margin to make it worth Nissan’s while to create a whole new model, engine and running gear. Toyota only have to put on different badges and still need to sell the Supra at that price to make it viable them! And people need to get used to the fact that Nismo is just a trim level these days, nothing more.

You people are never happy, are you? “This special edition is rubbish.” ”This model could be so much better.”

A friends mum owns a Fiesta with 54k on the clock. That’s never been serviced either. The fact that you don’t doesn’t mean it doesn’t need it! Also the fact that you’re going to do all the bits you can, on the cheap, means nothing. People can and do service their own ICE vehicles on the cheap too. However good work on the “doesn’t need servicing but here’s a list of service items I’ll need to do”, it really makes your point well...

It’s not even remotely true that there’s no service costs on EV’s. Or if he’s going to continue to claim that then it’s equally true that there are no (EV) service costs on ICE vehicles.... They still use traditional braking systems (rotors, pads and all) but due to the regen systems EV’s tend to use up the brakes less frequently... than an equivalent 2+ tonne vehicle without regen. At the end of the day it’s still machine and it requires maintenance, just different maintenance to ICE vehicles when it comes to the motor... but pretty much only the motor!

They’ve cunningly been reducing the quality of their services over the last decade or two to combat just that problem by time they’re made to switch to electric.

Not to mention the financial implications...