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About Ben–350Z

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  1. Literally what I thought. Just added a dashcam to my shopping list...
  2. I had that a couple of weeks ago - has yours got anything showing under "pending codes"? Mine had an actual cylinder number showing there, but not in the actual fault code list. Really helpful, that... Anyway, turned out to be a dodgy coil pack - swapped it over to cyl 3, and the next pending code that showed up was for that.
  3. Freshly washed And does it counf if the pic is really the side of a Volvo?
  4. Fair enough. Shape just looks a bit like the ones my 2004 Mondeo had. Look pretty neat on the Zed, though
  5. Wait... Are those Mondeo side indicators? °_0
  6. Just double checked my manual (it's 2 years since I installed my stereo) and yes, it looks like there's a separate feed to switch the antenna amplifier on. So that either needs to be connected to the blue wire you've currently got, or your stereo might have another one that only gets power when you use the radio. Here's as much help as the workshop manual is figuring out where it needs to connect to: Original stereo connections And then it's here on the plugs... I think that's actually the biggest one
  7. Sounds like you've probably not connected the signal to turn on the antenna amplifier. Would be the same one that you'd use to switch an external speaker amp on. Can you get a photo of the wiring you've got?
  8. Cheeky in the rain this morning...
  9. Time to resume the search for a Honda S2000 That angle does show why it really needs spacers on the rear wheels...
  10. Looks amazing! That fit is spot on.
  11. That's exactly the setup I have. Did the 4 speakers and the amp first, then added the active sub later. Both my sub and amp are hooked up to the same remote wire from the HU (using good old chocky block), and to a beast power cable coming down from the battery (m6 bolt encased in plastic). Have 5 RCAs Front L+R, Rear L+R & Sub running back there (only mono sub, as I didn't have another pair long enough). So what you want to do should be just fine. Correct with amp power, at least what the speakers can handle - a little more shouldn't cause a problem. It's also worth running any other cables you might want down there at the same time e.g. I have a USB cable in from the HU to the little cubby between the seats. Have you checked it's not out of phase with your main speakers? Mine sounded pretty awful when I had that wrong... Should be a thing on your HU to invert it.
  12. IIRC, the plugs to the doors basically fill the cutouts in the body - so the only way through is to drill out unused parts of the plugs. Yep, just splicing into main power cable for the sub is fine - just make sure you get something that can handle the amp + sub power draw. And an appropriate fuse, of course. For mine i did get a terminal post, and some ring crimps - just so if ever needed either the amp or sub can be easily removed. There is a massive bunch of wires that go into the car through the firewall behind the battery... Sort of just below the bottom passenger corner of the windscreen. Just make a little cut in that, should be able to feed the power cable through, and it'll drop into the passenger footwell. Can then route it behind the kick panel, and along under the carpet to the back. There's a load of factory cabling down there you can follow.
  13. Did mine a couple of years ago, and agree with the above. Only minor differences from what I did: 1) Installed my amp behind the driver's seat - knocked up a bracket / shelf that hangs off the LHD glovebox mounts. 2) Grabbed some Nissan Micra speaker adaptors (https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B072HSN162) to mount my door speakers - that was enough for them to clear the windows, but I guess that's pretty dependent on the speakers you're using. 3) Massively over spec'd my power cabling... As for a sub, after a failed attempt to bodge the OEM Bose one in, I grabbed one of these https://www.caraudiocentre.co.uk/product_m-alpine-car-audio-systems-pwe-s8_p-33197.htm which is now behind the driver's seat with the amp. Haven't got a reverse camera, or sensors, but what you're suggesting makes sense to me.
  14. This happened to one of my fronts when I had the fluid changed... They tried extracting and heli-coiling it, and then the whole thing just stopped bleeding up at all. Replacement caliper is definitely the way to go.



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