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Ben–350Z

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About Ben–350Z

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    Z Newbie

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  • Location
    Cambridge
  1. Rota kensei wheels tyre sizes??

    No problem - I look forward to seeing them fitted
  2. Rota kensei wheels tyre sizes??

    Yea, I didn't really want to do mine at first - but Tarmac could only get hold of one 18x10 ET35. And that would have needed spacers anyway. Got away without the roll for about 3 months before just the right combination of stuff in the boot, passenger and borderline ploughed Cambridgeshire roads caused a problem. But FWIW rolling them was pretty easy, and only about an afternoon to do.
  3. All Encompassing Wheel Size & Offset Thread

    Figure it's about time to add mine… Wheels: Rota GTR-D: front: 18x9.5 ET25, rear: 18x10 ET12 275/40 Spacers: front: 5mm (brake clearance), rear: none Tyres: Hankook Ventus S1 evo 2: front: 255/40, rear: 275/40 Bodywork: front: none, rear: rolled arches Camber: front: not checked, rear: approx -1.75° Suspension: lowered by 10 years' abuse (around 10mm at the front)
  4. Image link test

    Something something something
  5. Rota kensei wheels tyre sizes??

    Not sure about your fronts, but I have 18x10 ET+12 rears, with 275/40 tyres, and I just needed to roll those - think you'll be okay with ET+22. EDIT: Here's how it was before rolling
  6. Overheating,No Rad fans, HFCs, failed mot

    Interesting… I did not notice that when I was looking - like I say, it was my backup plan if I couldn't get the factory ones going again. The rewiring seems to be taking the two low speed wires from the OEM fans to one of the new fans, and the two high speed ones to the other. So rather than two fans running slowly, or two fans running quickly you just have one at full speed, or two at full speed. Suppose that's what makes those fans cheaper. I can't get to the wiring diagram right now (silly intellectual property laws) but from what I remember of it, whats being said here and on my350z makes sense.
  7. Overheating,No Rad fans, HFCs, failed mot

    Wow, sounds like you're really having a rough time at the moment. Weird, though… they were spinning, and burning out at the same time? °_0 Possibly the low speed contacts were fine, then something slightly shorting out the high speed ones? I take it you removed all the paper clips if you had those to hold the brushes back whilst putting it back together… For replacements, I believe the stock response is PM Zmanalex Though FWIW, when I was having problems, I basically decided that if I couldn't fix my existing ones, I'd get the Mishimoto shroud and fans for way less than replacement motors seemed to be going for: https://www.torqen.uk/nissan/350z/cooling/radiators-fans/2093-350z-de-mishimoto-aluminium-fan-shroud-kit-mmfs-350z-03.html
  8. Overheating,No Rad fans, HFCs, failed mot

    Wow, that sounds like a sub-optimal day Mine had a total lack of cooling fans when I first got it - decided it'd be worth having a go at cleaning them. When I got the motors apart, only one (out of 8) brushes could actually move. So it looks like it's possible for them to both die. As for removing the hose, I lost less than half a litre of coolant when I removed it. Did have only the front of the car on axle stands, so that probably helped. I got away with just refilling the top of the radiator with roughly how much came out, and haven't had any problems since. That was about 15 months ago. Suppose the coolant thing depends how much you lost yesterday…
  9. To Bose or NOT to Bose - that is the question

    No problem, glad you got it working! Fair enough soldering it straight in - I just like keeping things reversible as much as possible. Best not annoy the neighbours _too_ much. I hear moving house is even more expensive than owing a Zed
  10. To Bose or NOT to Bose - that is the question

    Sounds like you've got some of the questions I came up with after ripping out my Bose stereo because it didn't work… Starting with question 2 - When I did mine, I got the ISO leads but, rather like you're suggesting, cut them up, together with the one from the new stereo, added some solder and ended up with an Alpine -> Nissan cable. That way I _could_ revert it, if needed. But soldering the aftermarket one straight into the car should also be fine if putting it back to stock is never going to worry you. Making your own adapter cable is also a good time to remove any stuff that isn't needed - there's a remarkable lack of space in the dashboard. With regard to which wires to connect, take a look at the workshop manuals here: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/350Z/ : find the right year, and IIRC the “av.pdf” should have everything you need somewhere in it. Now back to your first question - as I understand it, if you have the Bose system, there's no cables from the back of the stereo to the speakers. It takes an unamplified signal from the stereo to the boot, then it's amplified there and sent to the speakers. There's various discussions about using the pre-amplified outputs on the aftermarket stereo, vs hacking into the amplified ones to send to the Bose amp - see "Buster's mod" (https://www.350z-uk.com/topic/58947-reduced-sound-out-put-after-replacing-oe-bose/). I guess that's what the pac-roem in your last question effectively does - boost the signal to the Bose amplifier a bit. I didn't do that, because sending a speaker level signal into an amplifier input just seems wrong to me, so used the pre-amplified outputs from the stereo. I did find it a bit quiet, and also didn't sound that great so ended up replacing the whole lot not long after. Having said all that, it shouldn't be too much effort to run speaker cables out from the stereo, if you don't want to get into separate amplifier territory. Just getting across into the doors that's a pain. Point 3, I don't know - as long as its a good connection that won't shake apart (i.e. not twisted together and electrical tape), and the cables aren't too thin it should all be fine. Though FWIW, when I was looking at where to put my replacement amplifier, I measured the impedance of the cabling from the Bose amp in the boot to the speaker in the front door - I seem to remember the round trip being about 2 ohms - so with a 4 ohm speaker, that's a third of the amp's output power just heating up the speaker cables. I found somewhere else for the amp, and ran bigger cables. For steering wheel controls, I think you do need a box to translate what the car's "saying" to what the stereo can understand. Guess there'd probably be no harm trying to just wire it straight up and see what happens. If it helps, here's the kit I bought: https://incartec.co.uk/Pages/Product.aspx?P=4487, and then spliced into the harness that came with my stereo. Left the steering wheel control bit as it was. Hopefully at least some of that clears things up for you…
  11. 08 HR Build

    No worries @m4mm13. After a lot of indecision, I actually went with Rota GTR-Ds. Just couldn't quite see how the lip with the bolts works with my long term plan… Still really like those as well, though!
  12. 08 HR Build

    Car looks awesome - really liking those wheels. I've actually been talking to Tarmac about getting a set… Just wondering what tyre sizes you're running, and is that with 5mm spacers as has been suggested to me?
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