ChrisB

Fantastic paint resurrection there One day, mine will be shiny like that too Keep away from BMW 4WDs driven by horsey mums. We have more than a few round my area, and everytime I pass one I get a stone chip it seems My car is like the moon at the front

Gorgeous

Perfectly do-able on the driveway Here's my 2p.. Personally, I think you are better off spending a bit more on the FRS. The basic (S0) FRS works fine but I think the basic modified OEM system gets a bit overwhelmed - seems to vary a bit with Zed. Mine's an early 03, and on the AAM basic, although it made the right ball park amount of power (about 420 fly HP on a 3.33 pulley), my fuel pressure was never smooth or pretty at the top end. Another member, mouthwash, had flat spots which were solved by upgrading fuel rails, so damping and flow is important. I've now gone the whole hog and installed a CJ stage 2 FRS which replaces everything. A slightly cheaper than S2 possibility is a CJ stage 1-S which gives the benefit of the new rails but doesn't change the main fuel pipe (as in the S2). In all cases you have to get into the fuel bucket, fit a new pump and bypass plug, fit an external regulator, return pipe and in the S1 or S2, fit rails. Cooling is necessary - OEM fans break down, so why not fit a Mishi fan shroud - more reliable and this gives the added bonus that you can get your arms in to tighten your V belt from the top without jacking. Oil cooler (thermostatic if you want a car to run all year in UK weather) is a good idea - as is an expanded or alternate lower sump pan. Arbitrary if you want to change coolant thermostat etc. Best injectors seem to be ID725. Many use Deatchworks, but there are some which have had issues with them. I've not come across a story of a failed ID yet (maybe there are less of us using them though). I believe Abbey recommend ID too. I've got HKS 3 step cooler plugs in mine - many select 1 step cooler. Lots of discussion about PCV. A catch can seems to work well - mine collects a good amount of thick oil. I found a small amount of much cleaner fine oil (like sunflower oil) in my plenum under the brass plate recently, so a small percentage of lighter oil gets through in the oily PCV mist, but the bulk of black stays in the can. My PCV is set up in OEM style configuration, some have vent to air breathers. Fitting the SC hardware doesn't take long. If you are changing lots of things and want to check them out one at a time (as I did), it stretches the timescales out - especially if you want to keep using your car as your rolling installation carries on. Planning is required there. I spent a few weeks driving around with the SC cog belt off in NA mode whilst waiting for some exhaust to come from the States. As Adrian said, the only real time you need to put on a new base tune is when you change injectors and/or upgrade to GT MAF as the stock pulse widths are incompatible with the large volume of fuel let through by bigger injectors, so do that last. For the big day after completing, I got a base tune from Abbey via email and an UpRev cable (which I later bought) via the post. This allowed me to drive to Abbey for final tuning on the Dyno. I've not personally had any reliability issues at all. I've chosen to upgrade my FRS since first tuning (and we're in eTuning stages at the moment) for OCD sake. I had a slight weep from one of my oil cooler banjos which was slightly loose, and in the early stages, my belt seemed to need tightening every so often. So far as keeping on top of maintenance, you need to keep an eye on belts, pipes and couplings, change SC oil (not hard) and shorten your engine oil change period a bit. I use Fuchs Titan Race Pro S in mine. Go on, you'll love it Not getting any commission here, but Torqen's Vortech SC deal looks like a very good value package (with a few changes and extras).

Excellent stuff (Owner of Zeta-S.. of course I'm biased )

That is BEAUTIFUL!

Not helping I know, but personally, I think electric is ultimately the way forward too. However, a more practical (due to the current installation of petrol stations) and better solution than fully EV (for the petrol headed feel factor), I love the idea of hybrid. But.. I want my ICE component to be supercharged 3.5V6 not 1.4 or less. I'd love it if there was a plug and play electric motive prop shaft replacement coupled to a rack of LiPo which provided drive and energy recovery. Conceptually, LMP1 hybrid cars are to die for IMHO. Just sayin'

04 DE don't drink as a rule, only the later rev-up DE's. 2 litres in 300 miles? and/or

Lovely Zed and set up

Toe heel - is that what it says? I read toothy A7TAK obviously

Must say that these look great Rather tempted to get a pair myself - my OEM lenses are pretty tired. I drive round cursing BMWs with their angel eyes on, whilst secretly thinking they are actually quite cool (jealousy incarnate)

Nice job All precautions taken, had a good clean out of the TB off the car (rather than just squirting stuff up there ) ..sorted Wasso spacer, exhaust and UpRev next? You have just broken the seal on a very steep and slippery modding slope

I'll stick my neck out here - before I supercharged mine, it used to have the *hot start, idle die unless some pedal input, often at petrol stations* problem. I initially thought crank position sensor, but after I cleaned my throttle body - which had crust on it's butterfly plate inside surface and around the edges - I've never had a problem. If you are sure there are no odd vacc leaks etc, it is an easyish thing to try (cleaning). I imagine the butterfly has physical difficulty returning to the right spot (or the small gaps when almost closed are clogged) at hot idle position. Of course, whilst supercharging, I touched a billion other things, but hey - could just be a grubby butterfly If you fancy it, disconnect battery, wait 30 sec before disconnecting the TB connector, take the TB off (bolts are F tight) and clean the back and surrounds of the butterfly using STP carb cleaner. Do not do this in situ with the cable still connected. Edit: no-way ^^ beat me to it

Things of beauty Wasso Gets my +1 These are a worthy addition to NA and FI cars

I dunno. Priorities, keep the car, live in a cardboard box. Compact and bijou I think estate agents call them If you end up splitting *, I'll have your one-piece charge pipe and the cf engine cover (Sorry if that vulture swoop is too soon )

Perl with a bit of R for application scripting (data visualisation, extraction etc), C and C++ for embedded coding on various platforms.

Yep - I have initial and final maps saved on my Mac Book Pro. I suppose attempting a few duty adjustments to injectors can't hurt - I think I will steer clear of anything (potentially damaging) timing though. Only issue is that my dual AFR logging is not currently synchronised to UpRev Tuner. Road test could replace dyno - similar to UpRev eTune techniques. I will investigate

Two post lift in your back yard Good man

gotta have drama I agree, you definitely need a FRS (even a basic one is limited) - and it's not surprising that the OEM system is overwhelmed - why wouldn't be? - the pipes are tiny and the kink between the rails is even smaller I do actually already own an UpRev Tuner cable ..just slightly to use ROM editor. I've only been brave enough to use Cipher so far Tempting though...

HAPPY >>> <<< HAPPY I've been testing, and it seems that installing the CJ Stage 2 FRS has done the trick and got rid of the nasty looking fan-tails in the fuel pressure graphs. Flow, delivery and pressure is now nicely stable Nerd mode on.. See here http://www.350z-uk.c...00#entry1466871 and here http://www.350z-uk.c...00#entry1468630 for how rough it used to be with the OEM fuel supply and AAM basic return Firstly, setting up the base pressure via the Fuel labs valve's adjustment screw, using the fuel pump circuit bypass switch, engine off, and reading the pressure via the digital mini-display, I chose 50.0 psi as centre at atmospheric Drive home today had a good linear MAP to Fuel pressure relationship. This had the full set of stuck in traffic, cruising, booting it etc MAP vs average AFR (both banks) looked like this. You get a high AFR only on lifting off the pedal and coasting - so at low MAP. Normally we're in closed loop, just around 14.2-14.7 AFR, then mildly boosted only appears top left. You get blips of low AFR on gear change etc - accounting for the filling in the lower left segment Time for a bit of fun with a low gear blast. About 7psi above atmospheric is reached here - can't go too mad on the road (my car made 9.63 psi when we dyno'd) Fuel pressure vs MAP for this burst (including normal driving either side) - good and linear extended into boost. Absolutely no nasty drop outs or spikes - damping and flow must be perfect Here the graphs are zoomed in with high rate logging for the sprint duration. Black is fuel pressure (red is a moving average of that), green is MAP, magenta is average AFR Average AFR shows quite a drop to below 10 and staying there.. previously, we drifted up to between 12-13 during a longish blast as I suspect the OEM pipes and rails and basic FRS couldn't keep supply going - and lean at high load could of led to det ! Sorted.. Both sides AFRs are equal too - excellent - both banks are performing together, all the way down AFR This time MAP vs average AFR shows log points in the top left corner - increasingly as the AFR floor is reached There you have it. Although the basic FRS do work a bit, it's better to spend a bit extra on a Stage 1 or even architecturally better Stage 2 and rip out the whole OEM system (especially when using big injectors) for smoother engine fuelling and a safer system. The car feels more epic and snappier on the throttle too. Oh and the SuperPro bushes with enhanced caster seem great too. Feel and stability does seem to be improved, although I need to get a proper alignment before too long. I probably need a trip to Abbey to retrim my injector values at some point too now that there is all this extra petrol coursing its way through.. sub 10 AFR is way too rich Jobs a good-un Time for

Bit hot for all this, and we went out for pizza/wine and a visit to a bird sanctuary, so slow old progress today. It's been a tad surreal too. We had a thunderstorm last night, so at 1am I heard my car cover fall off - I had to go out in strong winds in a dressing gown and ugg boots to fight the spinnaker that was my car cover. Eventually got it on after chasing round the car pinning a corner only for it to get ripped off by the time I was the other side.. repeatedly.. people walking back from the pub were amused.. but I digress.. Bolt back has occurred. There are a few paint splashes and rough bits - and I missed an entire support that could have got treated but pretty tidy if I do say so myself Big ole fuel feed pipe rests nicely and gets secured like this (big cable ties are water proof and strong - and the pipe is not subject to any movement from the structure) I've fixed up the underbody hardline retainer clips with extra bolts to jam the clips in. Seems to work. System testing is promising - fuel couplings are pretty secure. Compression arm bush bolts take 140-170 Nm torque (wheels on the ground) which is very heavy - keep expecting bolt snap or nut strip Back in one piece, same old but different engine

Andy, if you want a permanent install, send all your sensor cables through the firewall grommet passenger side behind battery/ipdm. eg http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/86592-precious-got-a-supercharger/page__st__280#entry1463362 Plenty of room in the grommet, and all thats required is to press 2 out of 3 tangs (one is fixed) of the plastic body (not just rip the grommet off), from the area above the ecu to release it so you can get the rubber seal back - it just clicks back in then