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MeisterR

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About MeisterR

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  1. Just to say we are ending the fund raiser this week and a winner will be picked for a free set of MeisterR coilovers. So far we have raise over $1,845 from 136 donator. I thank you for everyone generosity, and hope this will help those in need to begin their rebuilding process from Hurricane Harvey as well as Hurricane Irma. Jerrick
  2. We have achieved $1500 from over 100 donators in 12 days. While this fund raiser was setup to help my local community in Houston, many unfortunate have also been affected by Hurricane Irma in the Florida region. The Salvation Army are already providing aid the Florida region, and have deploy their mobile kitchen from as far north as New Jersey to provide additional aid to Florida. I just want to say thank you to the many donators, and I hope to raise additional fund to hit our goals in 10 more days. We will select an random winner on the 22nd of September to receive a free set of MeisterR coilovers. Jerrick
  3. Don't worry, we will work out the mechanic on the 22nd. Just an update. We have achieved over $600 in just two days, so thank you very much for any donation. Please keep sharing, and lets beat the $5000 goal. Jerrick
  4. The team at MeisterR offer their deepest condolences to all people affected by Hurricane Harvey. With many people killed and more than 200,000 people left homeless, the Salvation Army are doing all they can to support victims of flooding caused by America’s heaviest rainfall on record. Right now, Salvation Army staff and volunteers are working 24/7 to help communities that have been torn apart by the storm. However, they desperately need funds to help them offer the best support that they can to the hundreds of thousands of people affected. The motoring community is a tight-knit one, and we pride ourselves in helping others in their time of need. MeisterR have created a fundraising page to support the Salvation Army. Please donate what you can: $5, $10, or $50 can help save lives. Donate Here: https://www.gofundme.com/meisterR We will give away a free set of MeisterR ZetaCRD / ZetaCRD+ coilovers to a random donator on September 22, 2017. So share the news, donate and support, plus a chance for a free set of coilovers, WIN WIN. Jerrick
  5. 18/9kg springs for a track car ?

    Nope, it isn't about how much energy transfer to the wheel, but what the wheel see in terms of force and how much weight is acting on top of it. Think of it this way, with a true coilovers setup, the front ratio is about 0.6:1 and the rear is about 1:1 (rough number). So with a 11/5.5 setup, the wheel will see 6.6 front and 5.5 rear. As you say, because the front is holding up more weight, that is why the 5.5 rear is actually stiffer than the front. Calculating the numbers are easy, interpreting it and then using them to build suspension is the more difficult part. I have seen plenty of people calculating numbers, then come up with something that can only be classified as "vehicle dynamically worthless". I haven't had any experience with MCS, so I cannot comment. Jerrick
  6. 18/9kg springs for a track car ?

    It isn't too bad, you just got to look at the wheel frequency... which is why it is important. As that already include the suspension motion ratio (the leverage between the suspension and the wheel) So one car might use 6kg/mm, the other car may use 14kg/mm. However, if both car provide 1.8Hz wheel frequency, then you know both are going to roughly do the same thing, even though one car is using more than double the springs rate. Actually, according to my calculation it is rear biased. So that mean on throttle, the rear will want to come around more. Not a huge problem, and the wheel frequency don't look out of this world (it is a little stiff in the rear). But I won't look at it and go that it is a death trap in the making. Jerrick
  7. 18/9kg springs for a track car ?

    To calculate the bounce frequency (wheel frequency) is calculated using sprung corner weight, springs rate, motion ratio. It gives you a level playing round to evaluate what the wheel is seeing. Because a 10kg/mm front springs on a 350Z is "lighter" than a 7kg/mm springs on the front of an EVO. But what the wheels see is the important part. The 11/5.5 seems to be a lot more sensible. Jerrick
  8. 18/9kg springs for a track car ?

    That 14/9 setup is doing exactly like what my dynamic model say it would then. A 14/9 setup with the OEM rear in board springs actually would work very nicely. But to offer a 14/9 on a true coilovers setup honestly will require the engineer to go back to school. Like I said, 14/6 will work but a little tail happy. If I was to suggest, a 14/4.5 actually will make a good front biased setup that would be a good fast road & track setup. That is of course assuming the damping deal with this springs rate well and will not over critical dampen the springs. Jerrick
  9. 18/9kg springs for a track car ?

    Assuming we are talking about true coilovers rear, those rate is a little scary. 18kg/mm in the front is hard, but bearable... around the right figure for Semi-Slick. 14kg/mm in the front is on the harder end of a fast road car (slightly over). The front rate are fine, as the 350Z suspension design mean the front isn't very sensitive to springs rate change. The rear in true coilovers design on the other hand is VERY sensitive to springs rate change. 9kg/mm: Very hard... I wouldn't use that on a road car at all. 6kg/mm: Still very hard, should work with Semi slick but I would advice to be very careful on the road. If I were to make a setup, it would be 18/6 and this will be for a very track focused car that I wouldn't really want to see on the road. 14/6 will also work, but it will be a little more tail happy. I am going to highly advice AGAINST using a 9kg/mm rear springs in a "true coilovers" design. To make a 9kg/mm rear springs rate, you would need something around a 27kg/mm front springs. And this type of springs rate (wheel frequency) are getting up to profession race driver / touring cars running on slicks. On a road car, I always prefer the OEM rear design. A true rear on a race car allows better utilisation of the springs rate, and so you can provide more precise control when designing the suspension. But that really isn't needed on a road car, and the OEM suspension is actually not a bad design for what you need to with the car. My 2p to help out. Jerrick
  10. A video of the final run that got us our 3rd place finish. Took 3rd place by 0.064 seconds, it was very close racing. Hope you guys enjoy watching the run. Jerrick
  11. Yea, it is not an easy event at all. We are all very happy with the result, especially the first time around. The quote of the day for me was from a Co-driver of another S2000 who was also using the prototype spec ZetaCRD. He is an auto-solo veteran also, and normally drive a 911 GT3 to auto-solo event. I spend Saturday helping them setup, and so Sunday they got a few clean run with my recommended damping setting. He came over at the end of the day and told my teammate: "$20,000 car, $1,000 suspension, handles better than my $100,000 GT3." That made my day. Jerrick
  12. So the past weekend we attended our first National Auto-Solo event. The 2017 Tire Rack College Station Championship Tour, and it was certainly an experience. https://www.scca.com/articles/2005718-2017-tire-rack-college-station-championship-tour-event-recap Our team went into the competition feeling pretty confident, until we went to the grid and check out the competition's cars. The top runners are using the Honda S2000 Club Racer edition, that is a limited run of 699 cars designed with aero package and soft top removed to reduce weight. Only the CR are allow to run without the soft top, as the class rules state what came on the car in factory trim must stay; and looking at their engine bay you can see how well their cars were prepared. Most are using the PasswordJDM carbon fibre intake, and a few cars was running Moton Clubsport 2-way adjustable coilovers; that is only what you can see. In contrasts, we have a pretty standard 2007 Honda S2000 with 90,000 miles on the clock. The only mods were a K&N intake, Invidia exhaust, Eibach front anti-roll bar, and MeisterR ZetaCRD coilovers in our prototype race specification. Even our ECU was standard and unmapped... so you can imagine how our confidence drop "slightly " after seeing what we were up against. Most were using the same tyres, the new BFGoodridge Rival S... so that mean we were on even ground at least on that part. But never mind, this is our 1st national event so it was just to see where we sit outside of the Houston region. The STR Class we are competing in have a total of 17 drivers, many are experienced veteran at national event. Our driver is 21 years old Landon Thompson (who is getting a lot of stick up and down the grid because of his age), but it was all good fun. Overall, the competition was great and environment was friendly; but you know it is a competition and people are serious and there to win when you speak with a few. So at the end of the two day race, we end up just edging out for a 3rd place trophy finish out of 17 drivers. Considering how under prepared our car was and it’s our first national attempt, we were all very happy about the result. So that is it from MeisterR's team and our first national event, we came home with a blue cap (trophy winner) and a big meal at the end of the day. We will continue to improve the car to bring it to a more competitive trim, and can only hope or better result in the next event. It was a great weekend, just want to share our excitement and our result. Jerrick
  13. Recomended settings for track use ?

    Due to the motion ratio of the 350Z rear suspension design, I would say 6kg/mm is about as high as I want to go. You will just have to see, chances are that it might be okay but you just end up running the damper soft. Re-valving is pretty simple actually, it is just a bunch of "shims" that sit onto of a piston that affect the force it generate. But a monotube damper require a few specialist tool, and not many people have that. And of course, you will need a damper dyno or you will have no idea what you have actually done. Jerrick
  14. No clue!

    One of the main thing to remember that springs rate don't necessary tell you if the ride will be harsh or soft. Because the main part of the suspensions that control ride quality is the damper. I can easily pair the OEM soft springs rate with a very harshly valved race damper, and the ride quality will be unbearable. Springs rate are easy number to read, but most of the time they do not tell the story... or even part of it. What that mean is i can have 2 different setup running the exact same springs rate, but will feel drastically different. This is where knowing what to do when engineering suspension makes a world of difference. Jerrick
  15. Recomended settings for track use ?

    Uh... Damper dyno or it mean nothing. Springs rate does affect ride quality, but the damper is the main thing that control it. I can have a very soft springs, with a extremely harshly valved damper, and the ride will still be unbearable. Everything works together, you can't just isolate a part out and go "it is fine to change that". So lets put it this way, say you run full stiff (as you do now), and you put that 6kg/mm springs on and run the same damping adjustment. Your rear will be over critical, and that mean it will jack itself down if you hit bumps continuously. That mean your rear will just sink until it is resting on it's bump stop. The result is that you will have a rear that is unpredictable, and could "snap" out on you at anytime. If you soften the adjustment, you may just get to the point where your damper will work with the springs. However, because of the soft damping adjustment, it won't load the tyres like it is suppose to. What that mean is you get this "sluggish" response as your damper isn't pushing your tyres to get it to heat up and generate traction. Safer than the wheel snapping out on you, but far from ideal on how a car on track want to utilise it's tyres. Remember, the only thing on the car that generate traction is the tyres. The suspension's job is to get that tyre to generate as much traction as it can. That is why you got to look at how changes in the suspension affect the tyres, you cannot just go I want it stiffer and just throw a 16kg/mm springs on. Or in your case, I want it softer and just throw a softer springs on. However, given what you said, if you have no other choice. I would say that 6kg/mm springs will be the best option because I know for a fact that a 9kg/mm springs in the rear is way too stiff. Jerrick
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