ChrisB

It's OK, it's only what the voices in my head tell me to write I was going to write about the detail of data collection and interpretation, but I didn't want to send any readers to sleep (even more than normal) UpRev Tuning Guide pdf is a good starter for basic tuning (with UpRev) if you fancy it http://uprev.com/Upd...uning Guide.pdf Edit: linky ^^

No worries

Greetings

Noo.. that sucks!

Yep. Right hand side.

JDM added switch and rear fog light for SVA. Start engine, turn lights on then press switch to bask in the glory of the rear fog light

Fog light - I bet you

Gidday mates, It's been a while, but I've been out DIY tuning with UpRev Osiris Tuner, then testing, and repeating.., and can report a huge improvement on AFR to target tracking - fueling is much much better now. Basically, I've been using the original dyno derived (and eTune tweeked) ROMs as a starting point then logging and tuning the WOT part of the MAF calibration to affect injector duty cycle (leaving timing maps and everything else except a couple of minor things, constant). The process of tuning on road is a bit of a slow to perfect but exciting one - WOTs in 3rd gear (didn't spin out, crash or blow my engine up ever ) - although you'll note a lowered red line to keep speeds half sensible Compare the graph below with the AFR av, Target vs RPM graph from eTune3 above a couple of posts back.. AFR is LOADS closer to the Target line now.. There is a sudden drop in AFR at the upper end still, which I think is due to the massive 134% values in the ROM's existing Fuel Compensation map, which I may lower a bit later, but the accuracy is far better now The middle squiggly line in the above graph is the difference in AFR between the AFR and Target - it is now less than ±1 (see the right hand axis scale -2,-1,0,1,2) and generally within ±0.2 AFR. Ignore the low rpm wobble - thats just the change after suddenly standing on the throttle (and the effects of the violent switch to open loop and the sudden large cam advance I think). The high RPM dip maybe the compensation thing I just mentioned, but basically tracks target all the way. The cal lines are the various tuning attempts (including eTunes) - I've taken best bits from all and combined them to now be running the black line. Next thing is to adjust compensation then fiddle the K multiplier (and re-do the MAF cal) to stretch the MAF data into a more sensible range (the MAF ADC is 16bit - remodelling means cal is using only the first approx 40k out of 64k, so I should stretch that out again). MAF cal adjustments are really subtle in places - so taking a numerical approach (I'll spare everyone the nerdy process details) has made this a lot easier than simply moving lines by hand in the ROM editor tool Car is flyin'

Nice car

Naaa, needs a few more mods Very nice

Sounds from the news that the chickensh1t has suicided himself rather than face responsibility..

Well done, there is always that worried 'will she? won't she?' anticipation moment to be had before turning the key after a major root around in your engine Tune-tastic dyno fun to be had next

That statement alone is worth a

On the nozzle - the groove bit (I think the kit should have had a O ring replacement - not in mine), so I tried using the small diameter fat ring from the OEM regulator, but that spilt, then tried a couple of others from my box of O rings - they need to be fuel proof (Viton) not standard rubber - was never really happy with that either. If you find the perfect ring, you might be fine with the pictured dimensions I gave in the PM. Re-use the factory spacer and big O ring. Eventually, even after fixes, and because the flow never seemed that good (and was still rough with lack of damping and thin oem pipes) in the whole system, I just ripped it out and upgraded to CJ S2 which contains the new final edition V3 damped rails and big pipes - ultimate system - perfect. Flow is so much better, it completely blew my tune out Basically my system is wide bore all the way from the pump to the big injectors and back down the return. Alternative design for the plug bit is the CJ which fits it ring around the neck - see the pdf link I sent - with slightly different dimensions (I don't have one to hand) and is better as it compresses in between the nozzle and hole as opposed to stopping flow over (and possibly letting past if not perfect) the nozzle rings.

Really nice Agree - the red through the window looks ace. Must be great sitting in there too

I've covered over 39000 miles on mine. Manufacturing failure usually shows in the first few miles, whereas fatigue shows after time and distance. I purposefully didn't put 2 P clips on each front line as suggested by some - I just have single P clip per line attached to the suspension arm - as I didn't like the idea of a small bend radius if it is also attached to the shock absorber, as it seemed like it would adversely pull on the coupling when steering. Good info though, so worth deliberately checking line/coupling condition closely for stretch marks as part of maintenance

PM sent

Meh. Didn't think was *that* bad.. apart from the orange and red VOMIT in the engine bay

Take the shock absorber (aka strut lol) off then poke the extender up. It's up to you how you thread it cross brace side - I sacrificed one of the two plastic mount clips either side on the top cover, drilled through the cover and cut the extenders to size so just the knobs sit on the top - works perfectly (without rattles). I've seen others keep the extended full length and route it around the brace a bit.

Black and white cats are great.. Three out of our six cats over the years have been big friendly lumps

I knew you were a hard core addict

Very nice Stu - you know you love it Once going Mac there's no going back

Not bitter at all then. Welcome back to dear old Nissan