ChrisB

Greetings! We like FI builds on here

Meaty!

I agree with Coldel - experience seems to depend on the type of problem and which hospital. Last year when I broke my left knee's posterior cruciate ligament and shredded the medial collateral ligament, apart from a bit (ok lot) of waiting around, I got a free MRI, repeat visits to a consultant at fracture clinic and a really good expert contract physio at the in-house physio unit. This was at Stoke Mandeville however - bones, ligaments, tendons, joints etc are their thing. True, as I'm over 50, they wouldn't/couldn't do any repair to the permanently broken PCL and the MCL cleared up in (long) time, but I was happy. No hot nurses seen though.

@Red_Nic Under the text 350z service schedule (shared) In the menu: File : Download as : Microsoft Excel (.xlsx) Saves to downloads etc

Gidday - sorry I'm on holiday today - was out cleaning the Zed of all things Here is what is printed on the bottle if this is any help.. Can't see too many specs in that - but maybe the paxton/vortech website has a bit more info? p/n 009035. Christ ..what happened to photo bucket and the ads that won't un-pop? Took 4 attempts to get those links

Well I'm not bored with mine. I did mine mainly as a project though - I'm not convinced you bond with the car in the same way if you let a garage do the install, but maybe thats just me. Servicing is not drastically more expensive - as Jetpilot said, mainly it's more volume or better engine oil plus supercharger oil. As for reliability, they are not fragile like some turbo conversions - especially if modified correctly (IMHO), and can be used as daily drivers without problem in my experience. I'd say, go with the wisdom and get something else or an already supercharged zed as yours is stock, if your only goal is speed, but if you had already tipped a load of effort into your car and/or particularly liked your Zed, then go for it 400HP (either wheel, hub or pub ) is more than enough for the road, but it only puts you a few rungs up the pecking order Plenty of build stories to pick through on here.

Good strong attitude jumping350.. Two fingers to what life has dealt you - zero point in wallowing in self pity - best way is onward and upward. Good man

Just read that article and some of the shouty comments after it - the awesome but nearly as fugly GT-R35 in re-test is supposed to be nearly a half a MINUTE faster Good performance effort Honda though.. would be a nice car without the body kit.

I try to please Chris I would have loved to have a go on scrapheap challenge and also completely unrelated Ninja Warrior (Japanese not British) Yes! I can see that you would be perfect and have epic fun at Scrapheap Challenge! Would have been a hoot to watch!

Andy! this is great as usual - your mechanical vision is top notch It seems you can take something that works, almost destroy it with your milling machine, fibre glass and weld bits of scrap to it, cover it in paint and it ends up looking like something which came from a factory.. Personally I would have got as far as destroy and no further Excellent and true car forum escapism reading as always

Traitor. No I jest really. Looks great! I have a bit of a hankering for a Mazda MX-5 RF as something completely less powered... but it does have a retractable targa which I seem fixated on for some reason BRZ is Subaru DNA.. so obviously

mmmmm car bits. Surprised they are still in the box though lol. Should be all over the floor by now

You definitely should share some pics, as something seems to be odd here. Plenty of us have Rota GTRs (and GTR-ds) and Brembos - my summer fronts are stock offset 30et at 18" except 8.5" - I would have thought yours should not have any effect on fitment over caliper at 9.5" (I can't believe the spoke curvature design is that different between 8.5 and 9.5" - could be wrong though). There is tons of room between caliper and wheel spokes on mine. You don't have a BBK on there without realising it do you? Have you PM'd any helpful wheel vendors like Tarmac or Rare Rims for input?

Nice! Good moody sound - you should get writing and channel some of that angst of recent times? Heal thyself.. I bought a Zoom H5 over Christmas (as well as a Wildtronics amplified parabolic dish from eBay - for an utterly different outdoor application). Zoom is good gear

That is a seriously fast looking dog.. The gold floor looks crazy.. until you drop a shiny bolt (or a headlight lol) - lost forever

Crikey ...project monster.. No idea if this is pea roast, but I'm impressed! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/302217403407

I have a similar one. I remember being told by someone back in the 1980's that Porche did a test of two Porches.. both were tested and found even. Then one was ragged most of its life, the other was treated to pampering and barely left the garage. After a while they re tested them back to back. The ragged one was stronger. Now that was a cheery anecdotal tale of two Porches, clouded by distant memory, recanted by some beer assisted bloke (me) off the internet Might be true

I just had a look at the manual and it seems i was wrong about intelegent pump control, so i an supreised and a little diapointed, i exspected more, i know some modern engines use an ECU controled pump to modulate fuel pressure, rather than stop/start. So the VQ system relies on over pressure to supply enough fuel for various loads, and no doubt suffers fuel heating because of it, makes the likes of some of the older Vortech supercharger kits, fuel fudgers a bit of a worry. As for fuel dampers i have always removed them on tuning other FI engines, as they can restrict flow on high demand, especially if set up for std power limits, which is why i would be inclined to remove the VQ item when running FI and an uprated pump, i would also disable the on/off of the pump from ECU and set to run constantly once ignition is on with a return system. Early systems back in the nought-ies over the pond - especially those without these supporting mods were a lot more unreliable. There were stories of s/c VQ engines going bang a lot, which are far fewer in later builds. Applications may vary, but there doesn't seem to be *much* heating in the tank or lines in my experience - the pump is immersed and operates against the bypass (either in stock or remote) so there is always cooling fuel flow to keep temperatures reasonably down. Friction in the pipes and circuit around the engine bay don't add much - except from heat soak perhaps if stuck in a jam for hours and cooling is compromised. Certainly I've never noticed the pipes getting particularly hot. I have an electronic pressure transducer connected to my logger/display and the only time it shows out of normal (rising) pressure range is after a long spell in traffic (e.g. 2-3h M25 monster), indicating something going on thats likely temperature wise. Perhaps a continuous max load drifter would say different? (drift.. oh the mechanical pain ) As it happens, I have a sneaky bypass relay on a manual switch for setting up regulation pressure - so can run the pump when the engine is not running. For normal operation, the ECU relay is fine and the fuel regulator holds primed pressure perfectly for starting purposes. There would be a fuel safety issue if the ECU controlled fuel cutoff relay is overridden, as in a crash, you *really* want the pump off. Starting in mine is first turn of the crank - literally 1 or 2 cylinders worth of ignition and she bursts into life. Priming pressure is good. I have to differ on the need for dampers - the VQ can seem to suffer from flow interruption problems if they are *not* present, as some people have found in practice (e.g. a chap on here 'Mouthwash' possibly had standing waves or something at certain RPM, amongst other stories in the US - the reason CJ re-designed his rails to try and rebalance the fluid-mechanical tuning - the picture is a bit internet anecdotal though). I think I witnessed flow disruption myself as my measured fuel pressure curves were horrible and jerky until the fully damped V.fe rails went in - after that it was smooth as a baby's - although it's hard not to possibly conflate repair with observed characteristic as in the early teething incarnation of my fuel bucket, I had a bad o-ring at the bypass plug and had rough start issues all the time (as well as certain WOT fuel pressure issues) as circuit pressure incorrectly leaked away in the tank - worth knowing if new install symptoms persist. All good fun

Whoops.. late to the party, but since you have a pic of mine.. Some us used the similar AAM kit originally which came with an Aeromotive EFI bypass 13129 regulator (or used to be). CJ Stage 0 uses Fuelab's 51502 (unless an alternative e.g. the Aeromotive, is specified as a slightly more expensive option). Both of these have the fuel return coming out of the bottom of the regulator, with two input ports coming in at the side. One input port is normally blanked off. See these install guides: (particularly the first one) 51502: http://fuelab.com/wp...nstructions.pdf CJ (states return to the bottom) http://cj-motorsport...ts/fuelab-51502 AAM with Aeromotive regulator as an alternative http://aeromotiveinc...-2906-0revA.pdf Both are falling/rising pressure controlled from the boost/vacuum reference - you can tap it from the plenum. (NB Set the base pressure with this at atmospheric). Stock VQ DE do not have ECU control over pump speed - only pump on/off by relay. The only speed change it gets is by voltage change to the battery when the alternator takes over when the engine is running not by 'intelligent control'. The ECU briefly pressurises the fuel circuit before starting, then after the engine is running keeps the relay on. Stock fuel buckets have the mechanical regulator in the bucket - so pressure regulation is at pump source - very much at the input side. FI can require respectively more fuel and bigger volumes from bigger injectors, and empirically it was noticed that the open loop stock system VQ wasn't up to maintaining supply (in common with many other FI retrofits). Hence the return system which relocates pressure regulation to after the fuel rails. The FI return system (as correctly stated before) is supplied by much more than it can use, so excess is vented back to the tank. As more than stock fuelling capacity is likely to be required in boost situations, a bigger pump is used (the Walbro 255l is sufficient here) to cope with sudden change and increased volume. The regulator connection is to the exit side from the fuel rail so will always keep the rails on the side of high pressure healthy supply - as also mentioned in the other post, as when the big injectors drain the rails rapidly, asking the mechanical regulator to 'catch up' supply would be asking it to react to a lower pressure in the rail - i.e. they would already drained and possibly starved. Always more is more and richer is safer (assuming not richer all the time). However, to be fair, surges are a lot less of an issue when supercharging - apart from suddenly mashing the throttle, and even then s/c is not like sudden turbo non-linear demands. The other thing is that when cruising no extra fuel will be used as the closed loop 14.7 AFR will be maintained - which is almost no different to running N/A. Definitely keep dampers in the circuit where possible. They are there to help stop localised uneven flow issues and possibly fluid resonance (which some people have seen as causing flat spots at certain RPMs) which CJ went to great lengths to remove in his more advanced upgrade kits by embedding dampers directly in the rails. (V.fe rails). As a footnote, I much prefer the design of the CJ S2 (parallel rails with embedded damping, bigger pipes) and later upgraded to that. The stage 0 kits work with the 'twin spur' arrangement of the stock system - which is OK and used by many, but left room for improvement.

What it looks like minus brace - loads more room http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/86592-precious-got-a-supercharger/page__st__320#entry1497756

A big help with access is to remove your lower brace if you are really stuck. When I fitted my stage 2 FRS, brace came off and made life a lot easier. Brace is easy to get off - just a load of bolts, although the small ones at the back holding the plastic covers might break. I wouldn't advise dropping your tank though..

I used a long bit of heat shrink taped to the end of the pipe - it's stiff but flexible. Fold the end of the heat shrink over so that it doesnt slip off the tape even if you pull hard. http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/86592-precious-got-a-supercharger/page__st__60#entry1327240 Can be a git getting the pipe up there - but when you find the channel, it is ok.

Here you go chaps. Just did mine.. not too many dramas.. http://www.350z-uk.c...80#entry1698896 FWIW, not sure that the removal of the wheel arch trim instructions work on RHD cars - it looks to me like the metalwork and A/C pipes still get in the way.. I could be wrong as I didn't bother trying wheel arch trim route and did it from the top, but.. looks crowded to me

Yay 1k posts.. time for the ...VORTECH AIRFILTER CHANGE... Secret to this is to grit your teeth and be manly with it. Be the boss and don't let it take the ****. Turns out it's not too bad if you do that. Sadly I forgot to take the before pics, but after about 1/2 hour, got to here.. I got to this point by slackening the band around the filter's neck then sliding the filter off the supercharger rotating the filter 90-180 degrees clockwise to drag the breather pipe up fighting with the breather pipe elbow to get it off the filter (pipe wouldn't come off the elbow in situ rotating and squishing and rotating and squishing (repeat) the filter in the available space between the supercharger and radiator support to walk it out of the engine bay when it was out, it was much easier to take the old elbow off the end of the breather pipe (I like new things) When rotating and squishing, a hand through inlet gap is best to push from below, whilst rotating. Persistence is required because it will give a bit of bother. As I was replacing it with a spare (GMBallistics unused filter), if things went badly for the old filter, I wouldn't be stuck. As it happened, the old one came out without getting ripped (although was a bit crumpled), and I will set about restoring it with a K&N cleaning kit at some point. The filter won't come out if you don't detach the breather first. To put the new one back, I started with the filter upside down (breather hole is facing up), squished the filter neck rubber against the s/c to start the persuasion going (rather than just forcing the filter back in the hole) and then walked it into the hole - rotate and push, rotate and push until it popped in. I rotated the filter so that the breather elbow was back at the bottom, then I had to fish about with the breather pipe to push it into the new elbow. Then a final 90 anticlockwise rotation to sit the breather pipe/elbow underneath the filter. Place the loose clamp around the filter neck again and wiggle it back onto the supercharger, tighten and ..job done. This is what supercharged 16500 miles of M25 clogged full of Euro stink diesels does to a filter Checked the supercharger oil level too - all good. The old filter must have been choked with micro-particulates as she does feel noticeably more peppy now..

I found a mouse nest on my petrol tank once.. mouse had chewed the wires too.. As others said, you've most likely had a window smash/repair. There is no glass remotely near that space normally.