rob63

+1 Good idea if you don't fancy messing about with resin and glass mat, reckon that will work well.

Let us know how you get on with this one. Just bear in mind that that fibreglass (the word glass is important here) is a polyester resin that is thermoset chemically and is not a thermoform plastic, much like an epoxy glue. If you apply too much heat it will blister and even catch fire, good luck with putting that out! I work with fire retardant GRP and you'd be amazed to see that even an oxy/acetylene torch wont do much over a 5 mimute plus period. That said it is possible to re-mould slightly and change the contour with extreme care, but after looking at the pics I think you might be asking too much to stretch it into another area. Remember, nothing sticks to fibreglass like more fibreglass, go get a kit and have fun!

Try SamcoSport, hose number TCS216/C. Nine different colours to choose from, if you go to their site you can then 'dress' your engine bay in any of the colours...including gunmetal.

Mmm...I remember waiting for the wife to pick me up at Gatwick, thinking she was going to be driving her car. As I was stood there all I could hear was the screeching of tortured rubber as some loon was decending the multi storey, there's me thinking 'hire car, been there done that, wicked'. Then my 350Z came into view

As above, they will turn with some slight resistance and not 'freely' like the fronts. Raise the wheels, put 1 click on the handbrake and see or feel if the resistance is increased. I doubt that an over tight handbrake would induce clicking, stone in tyre might though.

I agree totally with the above, PC curing occurs at between 180-200C, I imagine that Alex's track tyres operate at between 90-100C and the heat from his discs at well over 200C, this heat is directly transferred to wheel. You can even get burnt from letting the hot air out of a race tyre It is fair to say that you'd be foolish not to ues a reputable company to carry out PC on the wheels of your pride and joy, and by offering that knowledge that's where this forum excels. I persononally use BA wheels in Norwich, the service, finish and expertise this company offers is fantastic, they remain in service because of this. To say that PC will warp discs is bit of a misnomer, however attention to detail will warp discs. Don't mount discs to an uneven surface why would you?

It doesn't work like that, you have any idea just how hard it is to open a another 'slush fund' bank account You have to divert all paper correspondence, you have to have a mail drop address, and then you have to install the goods... And should the car sound 'different' then it's a case of 'I need to fix that'. That said, she did notice the carbon fibre wheels on the motorbike

It doesn't work like that, you have any idea just how hard it is to open a another 'slush fund' bank account You have to divert all paper correspondence, you have to have a mail drop address, and then you have to install the goods... And should the car sound 'different' then it's a case of 'I need to fix that'. That said, she did notice the carbon fibre wheels on the motorbike

Chris, Re the M370; sorry to ask the obvious but this is complete with all the hoses (blue or black supplied?) both top plates, gasket, etc? If yes to the above then I'll take it Just one small caveat; I know you guys joke about the 'Bank Manager', aka the missus, but mine really is my Bank Manager If ever you are quized about this or any other item I that need, you are not crack, even under the extremes of torture Deal?

Tarmac, Still got the M370? If yes I'll take it And after all the debate I'm 99% sold on the Injen CBE

As above, thanks Colin for the link, this is a permanent fix and only takes 5 mins to remove a useless piece of weight. You don't even have to drop the whole of the plastic cover/liner, with a bit 'face pulling' you'll get your hands in by just popping 4 retainers and removing the blind cover retainers.

Just remove the weight 'assist' from inside the boot door, did mine last night and then just kept opening and closing it over and over with no dramas

Congrats and welcome! You'll find this forum to be a very useful place to be

+1 On the above. But, if you feel the need to ask how to do this then don't attempt it...then again if you knew how to do this you'd have done it by now and wouldn't have posted

See the 370Z warranty forum...I know you've read it

You could of course just go for the auto, revel in the smugness that comes with knowing you wont be a possible victim to the manual gearbox problems. Do a search... And they say that the auto "detracts from the driving experience", so does waiting for a new 'box

Seriously, it's wrapped up in plastic with all the fittings. I no longer have the 350, I've never 'done' ebay and guess I never will so it'll sit there! Make me an offer

I didn't know they were so hard to find or so expensive, I've an as new one and all the fittings sitting in the loft...

No comments on your choice of ride, your choice. You'll have nothing to lose by calling Adrian Flux, at least you'll get to speak to someone with knowledge on the subject and a genuine desire to get the lowest premium for you. And in my experience they will price match anyone else, they have done so for me over many years with the cars and bike. Also, God forbid, should you need to call upon their services in respect of a claim they really do offer exceptional service.

If I were to catch my neighbours installing a wireless door bell to my Zed, well....

Went a few weeks ago...

And don't take this the wrong way, I would hate to see me and my Zed bent by an another one coming the other way on my side of the road after bouncing off the curb

Not sure if you ever got a reply to this request? I've just removed my OEM Tonneau cover as I've sold the car, need to get rid of it really, if you still want a trace making I'll post one on to you. Thought I could pop in to Homebase a get a 'sample' of wall paper to trace it on!

Unless you're doing track days, as even with 'spirited' driving the hubs don't get that hot, you can get away with this; remove all traces of scale/rust/paint etc, coat with halfords (or similar) VHT paint, thin layers-colour of your choice, when dried apply moderate heat-pop in the oven or use hot air gun so as to cure the paint, then for a more durable finish apply a coat of acrylic paint. Yes, ordinary rattle can paint I've used this technique on the hubs of my 350 and more recently my 370, as well as numerous other cars and plenty of bike engine casings etc. With the 350/370 I've used satin black acrylic as I've fitted black 20mm spacers and this just continues the theme

Just answered my own question, are 350/370 wheel spacers the same? They went straight on with no issues