ZMANALEX

Only if the recommended temperature is exceeded whilst in the oven during the process.

A little bit of heat on the fixed nut may be enough to slacken the bolt, however the bolt may be seized on the bush sleeve, which you can easily replace if you damage it during the dismantling. You have to remove the drive shaft to remove the knuckle, but that is not a big job. Just remove the split pin and loosen off the drive shaft nut before you get the car in the air. If you do not have a very powerful impact wrench and if the nut is very tight, use a 1x metre heavy duty breaker bar and a piece of scaffolding pipe if extra tight. It is a normal R/H thread.

The only difference on the service items are the air filters and spark plugs which are good for 50,000 miles. However as the guys have said previously, an image of the engine will provide you with a definitive answer to your question.

to the forum.

I replied by PM on Monday in answer to your PM with a price delivered.

to the forum: Best Colour: Enjoy:

Easy to replace insitu, however as Ian has said, not much room. Removing the plenum makes this job so much easier, with no requirement for a blood transfusion during/after.

The Pathfinder mod worked well for me and helped with keeping the coolant temps down on track. I wanted to experiment with the HR mod and this was fitted when the engine was out for other stuff, and that also worked well. What one is better would be hard to tell, however I think that my temps came down a further few degrees with the HR mod. Remember that my 350 is now close to 800 bhp with similar torque and generates extreme heat so every 1 degree is a prisoner. The stock rear pipe is all that you require for a sub 400 bhp 350.

I did the Pathfinder mod to my 350 track car around 12 years ago, easy to install, however the parts are not cheap. I have only sold a handful of these. I now sell/install the HR option for the DE which works well for FI and track cars.

PM received and replied to: Your car is an HR which only has one belt which is self tensioning.

Fit new belts and adjust to manufacturer's spec. Check all the pulleys when you have the belts off. New uprated belts are in stock and good to go same/next day. Just drop me a PM if I can help further: @ZMANALEX

Firstly I would test the front O2 sensors and if faulty just replace. Is your car wide band or narrow band? Genuine Nissan OEM Sensors are in stock if required and good to go same/next day.

PM received and replied to:

Complete assembly only I am afraid which is not expensive: In stock and good to go same/next day. Just drop me a PM if I can help you any further. @ZMANALEX

Might be best to give them a call.

In stock and good to go same/next day. Just drop me a PM if I can help further. @ZMANALEX

Who cares what your tow eye looks like on track as it is only there to serve a purpose.

I also have a Roadster and I would not fit them to mine I am afraid. To me they look like a poor afterthought. However that is only my opinion, and each to there own.

When in there check that the mechanism has not simply come loose.

Probably wear on the wiper control mechanism. Plenty in stock if required.

Nice one Jack, thank you. All parts are in stock except for the BC Racing Coilover PM received from OP and replied to:

Sorry mate all the 370 mats are sold I am afraid.

No, You don't say if your car is a DE or an HR. Pivot ball failure will not generate an air lock. If you are following the correct bleed system then the air in the hydraulic system should dissipate. Not following the correct bleed procedure is the usual culprit, however the correct pedal adjustment is also important. Perhaps you have fitted the wrong slave cyl. or you may have a faulty master cyl. However, my money is on the bleed procedure, which can sometimes be a bit tricky and be a real ball ache.

PM received and replied to: