ZMANALEX

Not sure what you mean by looped end or nut end. However, in your first image the line goes direct to the caliper and remember and use the copper washers.

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Yeah should have that in stock mate. Just drop me a PM if I can help further.,

A what ??????????

Koyo far superior to Mishimoto, however make sure that you go for the 53mm

Plenty pre owned fully working in stock if required.

You will never in a million years get a gain of 10-15bhp with this kit: :lol:

Probably oil rings or valve stem oil seals on that particular bank.

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I would be looking at the compression rod (banana arm) ball joint. Bank Transfer or Paypal will be fine:

The only sure way to tell is to check the label on the side of the box.

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Great place this forum for informed info: Mines is a large Scotch on the rocks please

GLWTS Pete. Lovely looking car, almost as nice as the Buddleia.

Most won't want the agro of matching the paint which sometimes can be quite trying and time consuming, however best that they had just told you that instead of fobbing you off. As I said in my previous post, going on your description of the work required, a respray is the only way to avoid any issues.

Sounds like a respray may be required to get the perfect finish that you desire.

Yes but getting that info out of them is a nightmare. It's like you have to say a key word or phrase to unlock their understanding which is difficult as I don't know the ins and outs of what's involved. I want to be able to say; I want this end product within x parameters. And then just pay for it at the end. I want to give my car to someone and pick it up x amount of weeks later and pays my cash as a happy bunny. I have already answered all your questions and provided loads of informed information by PM, however my guess is that you are gleaning information from various tuners/engine builders and now got your self totally confused. :shrug:

I honestly have no idea without checking your car out, however 30 minutes below the bonnet by an informed 350Z tech, should answer your question. I would firstly be looking again at cam and crank position sensors.

Valve timing solenoids are in stock if required, just drop me a PM.

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The free play may be a hydraulic issue if a DE or HR. If HR probably the CSC. If DE could be slave, line and fluid time. Clutch forks on the DE are prone to getting dry on the pivot ball and eventually breaking, so try some lub in from the aperture in the gearbox.

Watch this space Rehan: