Most just remove or secure with a weld or tying wire.
However, they are there for a reason and if removed extra heat will hit the clutch slave hose on the N/S and the fuel lines on the O/S however these areas can be protected with some form of heat reflective shield.
The low warning metal clip should be fixed firmly to the pad, usually by rivets.
The damage is done so just bend it out the way with a large screw driver.
Never ever seen this before and I've changed thousands of sets of pads.
Drive carefully on way back to garage and read the riot act once there.
The pad with the warning device should also be on the inside pad.
Shocking level of service.
Hi Sasho, thank you for the PM which hit my inbox at 13.19 hours.
However I have been playing in my man cave all day and just opened your message when I got home.
OP: PM received and now replied to.
Colin, PM received thank you, and also replied to.
A leak down test is an option that some use, however it is quite time consuming. (Plenty vids on You Tube)
I prefer just to carry out a normal compression test followed by a controlled wet compression test as it is quick, accurate and efficient.
A dry compression test as per the video will not provide the information that you require to establish if the piston oil rings are worn or broken.
The compression test will only provide the condition of the compression rings or valves which have absolutely nothing to do with oil consumption.