ZMANALEX

Battery terminals, earths, or starter motor leads or a starter motor issue, The starter motor is below the intake pipe and bolts to the engine and gearbox housing. If there is is a spark then it sounds like a bad connection in that area.

VQ35DE ecu's in stock, Is your motor the early DE or the later Rev Up ? Alex.

Bring it to me and guaranteed that I will tell what your rattle is within 30 seconds By the way I only charge by the hour and not by the second. Where are you based?

to the forum and good luck with your modifications.

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Looks like Lexx has you sorted so to the forum

Nowt wrong with a 488 for a week.

Simples: If you are uncomfortable with the noise, then straight back to the dealership, it is there problem not yours. Ask for a courtesy car and leave your car with them until fixed.

Do you mean Flywheel Alex? I know what you mean. Before I got into mechanics, my local garage ruined my200SX engine through stupidity, but because we had had a long relationship I still didn't want to name and shame. Infact, that was the reason I got into cars, so I could do my own engine work without relying on plonkers, and then somehow I ended up selling Nissan parts for a living lol. Yes, typo, meant flywheel: Sorted.

I would love to help, however I am backed up for 4 months with stuff. However if you give me the guys name and address I will give him a ring or even drop in to see him as I am in Aberdeen every week. Regarding the oil pressure, if there was zero oil pressure, the engine would be rattling and I certainly would not be revving it. This smacks of 2 faults; (1) Faulty oil pressure sender switch (providing the correct oil and filter is fitted and up to the level) (2) Flywheel fitted in wrong position. I would take an oil pressure reading with an independent gauge from the block where the sender switch screws into the engine beside the oil filter. I am 99% sure that this will provide a positive reading. Once that is sorted, then the box will have to be pulled and the flywheel repositioned. Is the car still with the garage and have you paid him any money ?

Just installed one of these at the weekend to allow extended mapping time as my lap top battery is not the best. http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/maplin-12v-modified-sinewave-300w-inverter-n66ju

to the forum.

to the forum.

Nah!!!! just leave the flywheel on next time you sell a bare block, lesson learnt and all that. :lol:

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Technical Bulletin: ACT Flywheel on a Nissan 350Z and Infiniti G35 This entry was posted on June 21, 2013 by advancedclutch. Nissan equips many of its newer vehicles with a dual-mass flywheel to control a portion of the engine’s torsional vibrations, which causes various types of gear rattle noises. A dual-mass flywheel exhibits unique damping characteristics that cannot be replicated with a single-mass design. When converting from the heavy, original dual-mass flywheel to any lighter, single-mass, aftermarket flywheel, much of the original torsional damping is defeated (with a partial exception when also using a spring-centered or damped clutch disc). As can be expected, the result is an increase in gear noise. In general, the lighter the flywheel is, the louder the gear noise will be. During testing, ACT found two types of gear noise that commonly occur when using a lightened flywheel on the 350Z or G35: 1) idle mode rattle (also called neutral rollover noise), which occurs when idling in neutral with the clutch engaged, and 2) burst rattle (or start-up rattle), which is heard when accelerating heavily at very low rpm. Although annoying to some drivers, the additional gear noise should pose no harm to the transmission. ACT manufactures flywheels in both Streetlite and Prolite versions. Each version is manufactured with integral ring gear that allows a greater weight reduction and eliminates the chance of gear breakage. ACT heat treats the entire forging for strength and durability. All ACT flywheels provide safety, improved throttle response, better feedback to the driver and increased acceleration. ACT flywheels are able to be resurfaced, if needed, which can save from having to purchase additional parts, as is common with any two-piece units. ACT flywheels meet SFI Spec. 1.1 and are legal for competition in all racing organizations where SFI certification is required. Installation note: The alignment hole in the flywheel must be lined up with the crankshaft dowel. It is possible for the flywheel to be mounted in a misaligned position. If the alignment hole is not positioned properly, the car will not start or run properly because of incorrect timing of the crankshaft, speed triggers machined into the flywheel.

There is a small pin in the end of the crank which marries up with a small hole in the fly. However it is very easy to fit the fly in the wrong position if you are not informed. Only solution is to pull the box and reposition the fly to the correct position.

There is no crank sensor on the front of the engine. The crank sensor is on the rear of the engine/gearbox bell housing and picks up from the flywheel. I still say that the crank sensor or the fly fitted wrongly is the issue, however you can never legislate for simple silly mechanic mistakes.

http://www.first4magnets.com/other-c89/precision-telescopic-magnetic-retrieval-pen-pick-up-tool-max-lift-1kg-p3771?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=precision-telescopic-magnetic-retrieval-pen-pick-up-tool-max-lift-1-trp-1&utm_campaign=product%2Blisting%2Bads&gclid=COjxgrXUvM4CFUsq0wodUzsG-Q#ps_1-2173

I good fitting socket and a bit of controlled leverage is all that you require.

Something hooked up wrong or not hooked up at all. Or lack of fuel perhaps. Flywheel fitted in wrong position and not registering with CPS. etc,etc,etc.

The lifters are not hydraulic, they are mechanical. Oil pump failure, I don't think so. The issue will not be oil pressure related. See my previous post.

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