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SeeNoWeevil

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About SeeNoWeevil

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  1. Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't the 'B' revision the old, faulty one - 'D' being the latest and more reliable. Nissan quoted £670 fitted. The new motor sounds quite different when it activates, so either it's a newer revision or the old one was really gummed up.
  2. I created a topic with some tips on swapping the badges over, some might find it useful.
  3. Just checked, it's also unlocked with the ignition off. Could it be a dead fuse? On a more positive note, on researching this issue it made me smile to see people refer to the key fob slot as a 'fobgina'
  4. Yeah, maybe the issue lies elsewhere. These were the codes when I initially checked. I cleared them and the ones in the original post were what returned.
  5. Wait.. does the '14 even have a steering lock?? I've never paid attention to it. I can't find any evidence of such late models having this issue. All I can find is numerous people saying this was 'solved' 2013 onwards or that these models don't even have the lock. Seems like these people are just guessing. Confusing. Maybe it's something unrelated entirely.
  6. Key light on. Any advice? It'll be going into Nissan tomorrow. I thought this was a ~'09 issue?? I thought this was because my fob went through the wash lat week (doh) but the spare is the same.
  7. I thought I'd give some tips after swapping out the front and rear badges on my Zed as it's a bit of a pain in the arse tbh. I initially tried heat (gf waggling a hairdryer) and dental floss. Dental floss is not strong enough and will snap, fishing line is better but can also snap if pulled against the sharp edges of the badge. With any type of line, be very careful about pulling it out wide against the sharp edge of the recess as it can nick the paint where it's thin. The other problem is that the badges (at least the rear one) have plastic locating lugs which will stop you pulling the line more than a 3rd of the way across. What I suggest is making a fishing line garot (!) around 8" long that's 3-4 strands thick (I looped it through the metal clips of clothes pegs to make a handle). Use your fingernails to push the line into the gap around the side of the Nissan portion of the badge (tricky) and pull slowly sideways as the glue begins to go soft (1 person with the heat, another pulling is ideal). When it won't pull through any further and gets stuck on the lug, pull the line towards you and use it to lever the badge away slowly. Try and get your fingernails or a piece of card under the opposite end of the Nissan portion of the badge to prevent it digging into the paintwork as you lever it away. Once it's off, roll the remnants of the sticky pad away with your fingers. Tar/bug remover was good on the tricky bits here, but it was pretty easy to get off. Give it a good clean before you apply the new badge. The 370Z badge comes off very easy by just pulling straight through, there are no lugs. Applying new badges can be quite tricky on the front as there are no locating lugs to get it perfectly level with the recess and you won't be able to remove it after. On reflection I'd probably stick some tape to the new badge either side so I could place it down without fingers blocking my view. I reckon if it was slightly off, you could heat it up again and reposition it slightly with some force.
  8. Why do you hate us? Lots of love MY13 owners Why are aftermarket lips for the facelift so rare? @Tarmac@TarmacSportz pls
  9. SeeNoWeevil

    Side Skirts

    Done. They look great. (stripe added in the second pic)
  10. SeeNoWeevil

    Side Skirts

    I've just taken delivery of a set of the Maxton ones but I'm in 2 minds whether to fit them or not. The thought of screwing self-tappers into the OEM skirts is putting me right off. Do they extend through the plastic skirts and screw into the metalwork? I wanted to keep any mods potentially reversible. What's the best kind of adhesive to use, 3M tape or adhesive? Does the car need to be jacked or is it possible to screw in the hex-headed self-tappers with a a ratchet/stubby hex screwdriver?
  11. The maf is considerably the more expensive of the two, right?
  12. Battery was changed. I'm fairly sure it needed doing anyway. Would a bad maf not have a knock on effect on the O2 sensor? Thanks
  13. Ok, limp mode returned and threw a CEL this time. Nissan are telling me it needs a heated oxygen sensor (I presume this is the one after the cat) AND a maf at a cost of £850. Why would both of these have gone at the same time? Isn't sensor 1 *pre* cat?? It sounds like they're just guessing to me. Any thoughts?

350z-uk.com

370z-uk.com

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