Chris`I

No snow foam or 2BM either tsk tsk Looks good video wise

It can be very unnerving when it happens and TCS in the 350z isnt exactly subtle so I can see why it'd scare the crap out of anyone I had to do it on my old 350z when swapping some wheels around and had my Rotas at the rear and Rays the front. They were both 18" wheels but the Rotas had a lower RR on them (by design and recommendation of an old trader on here), which was fine with all 4 Rotas as the RR front to back compensated, but with Rays on the front the TCS went mental, very unnerving I learnt a lot about how the TCS worked that day after thinking my car was broken

Good to hear they have a tech that has a 350z, he should know that the RR of front and rear tyres is not the same. Thats where 99% of tyre fitters go wrong as for the majority of cars the RR on all wheels is the same, whereas front to rear they are different on the 350z. I assume you are aware that fitting tyres with a greater RR than OEM fitment will make your speedo under read the cars speed and will compensate for that accordingly (ie the car will report you are doing a slower speed than you actually are). In reality it may well balance up the fact that as stock it over reads the cars speed and give you an accurate speedo reading

TCS will only be upset by the difference between the front and rear rolling radius of tyres. It doesnt give a @*!# if your speedo is wrong. It can only work out if the wheel is slipping if it thinks the rear wheels are spinning faster than the front. By default the front tyres are 3% less RR than the rears - ie the rear tyres are 3% larger in circumference (IIRC). This is all the TCS cares about, if you keep this the same then the car will be happy and you can run whatever size tyres you like, smaller or larger RR, it doesnt care as long as it thinks the rear wheels are spinning a bit slower than the fronts (in absolute terms) therefore it sees them as spinning the same speed (as it knows the rear wheel is bigger). Hope that makes sense

You should get before and after printouts Ask to speak to the tech that is doing the work and also the service manager. Always good to get friendly with them. If you mention the forum they might let you out the back (although not sure they have the same arrangement as WLMG in Slough who know the forum well)

Single - i rest my case! Soz that was harsh - couldn't resist! So cruel!

The story that must be told is why your car is called Zemo ... Now off to hide

Take the fun way home When I took delivery of mine it was the day before the Wales run last May. We had to go back roads all the way to north Wales just to avoid the motorways but it was good fun. I would definately suggest that the first few hundred miles you avoid motorway driving. On the way home take the A and B roads, get her nice and warm and then have some fun - I hit the redline in mine before 50 miles on the clock - by accident of course Also keep an eye on oil temps. I was driving around Wales with not a lot more than delivery milage and the oil temp did have a habit of climbing a bit quicker than you'd expect. By the end of the run she was running sweet though.

Get searching then boss. Sure Sarnie or Ian will be along with some threads from the archives - they seem to have all the good threads indexed ready for reference

Lookin good

Mine does tend to ping quite a lot too. Cant say I've noticed it when idling, but then I dont often stop at home and get out the car without turning it off. I have noticed it in the past that it doesnt take long for the car to warm up and when its warm the exhaust would ping. Now I have the Stillen I guess it will do it less which is why I dont notice it.

By cracking do you mean pinging of the metal?

79 quid for what though? Alignment or full geometry? Garages usually say that alignment is just a check and they will do small alterations to maybe toe in/out for free, but full on geometry they'll then charge at something like 30 quid a wheel. I'd check with them exactly what they will do for that money and how much it will cost if anything needs changing. If you get a good mech then ask them for a fast road setting. Usually they'll set the camber on the front to be a bit more agressive, probably on the limit of the range Nissan specifies as acceptable for the car. This will sharpen up turn in and corner grip a little.

Looks like another great Hoon. I recognise many of the places from the last one I was one - they are great roads and places to visit. Definately will be on the next one, I've already told the social sec that no holidays are to be double booked next time. My 800 miles through France were in no way as much fun

Dont assume meets have to be 350z/370z or even Zed specific. Down here there is a regular Reading Jap meet which I usually try to make - havent made any this summer due to new work commitments but last year went to quite a few. If you have a joint meet in mind with other owners of other cars then stick it up. Better to have joint meets than none at all I say, and also makes it a bit more interesting to see other cars Non-Zeds at a Zed meet will be banished to the end of the car park - like I was in the Alfa - but its still good fun and better to attend in something non-Zed than not at all. In all honesty you will get way more enjoyment spending money on petrol and attending meets than any mod to the car

Glad to see it was cleared up

IIRC the BCM does control all of them, and they are expensive - unless Husky can fix it

I think this is going to get confusing. I beleive that before, 7AT coupe & roadster were band L, 6MT roadster was band M (only just mind). I seem to remember reading that for MY11+ they fiddled with the ECU to bring all cars back into band L. There certainly used to be a split for 6MT roadster being in a different class, so the DVLA may be right.

I took it easy for about a 10th of that When I picked mine up from an HPC their GTR Tech said to get the oil warm then build up the revs over a few increasing runs. Worst thing you can apparently do is to sit at the same revs and part throttle a lot with a new engine. That can be worse than anything that can happen giving it a good ragging when warm. Main thing to watch is the tyres and brakes. They both need a bit of bedding in before you can fully lean on them, and IMO this is why they impose these running in periods - purely to stop people ragging a car they dont know and trying to nail it on the manufacturer. My car has now done 15k miles, hasnt missed a beat and hasnt used any real amount of oil.

My battery lasted just over 6 years, so they can go for a while. I thought this was going to be another "bye bye" thread

Heated and electric folding so will be a dog to change. Easier to just get used to it.

I thought about that, but it only works when arming the alarm, so I dont think it will aid any wannabe theives Just to clarify, to disable it, make sure the car is ready to be locked as normal, press the button behind the passenger seat, the alarm/immobiliser symbol (red car with key) on the dash will flash quickly, get out and lock as normal (key or handle button). The car will lock as normal and emmit one beep to indicate it worked

Dont get me started with off shore resources and guys from overseas. There are a few that are geniunely very good, but 99% are just crap. But the bean counters just see that they are cheap and they can get 10x over there for the same as my day rate. However they chrun out @*!# and I'm left to sort it all out, costing them far more than if they'd just had a few onshore guys do it. Fortunately I now work in a fully onshore team so dont have any of this crap.

Must try and make this one

This. I used to build PCs but you spend all your time doing their support and also you can get much better spec'd PCs from people like Dell with onsite warranties for a lot less now. The money in IT is in consulting. Anyone who has been one or knows one will know this Builders, developers, support all get paid pish unless you do something niche which you can then charge more money for.