Chris`I

370z has one too - not going to say where it is in case any robbers are reading this, but its quite obvious to owners. That does the tilt sensor which I assume is the one I need for the ferry. The other option as you say is to try key in the door too. 370z is way more sensative than the 350z. My pressure washer on the roof of the 370z sets off the alarm, as does very heavy rain or hail

Nope, we're going with Brittany

Off to France at the end of the week on a ferry and was just wondering if anyone knew how to lock the car without the alarm. I am thinking you can usually use the key, but as the key is more for emergencies in the 370z I'm not sure if it will work that way. Can anyone confirm? If not I'll be out in the garage tonight trying to set the alarm off

They will slap you with a stupidly high postage rate at Courtesy. TBH, I would try Alex and Toby (EH370z) and if they cant do it, just get it bought from your local guy.

Top for roadster, bottom for coupe. Cant remember the difference in the seat spec other than the centre of the roadsters are mesh like rather than leather. They can be swapped too - I think Martinmac had a swap with Jay (ZedRush) old ones.

You can get IR extenders which do the same thing as Sky Eye. Just means that you need extra powered boxes though. You'd have a receiver up with the telly in the bedroom/etc and a transmitter downstairs. Receiver sends the button presses from upstairs to downstairs via RF and then fires off the command to the freeview box. Not sure how much these cost these days. +1 on wiring it if you can. We bought a wireless transmitter to my mum as a quick fix and the quality on it isnt particularly good. Going to go and hardwire in a new TV point when I can to get a better picture.

Yes I checked with Nissan GB when I got the car and this was their email reply: "I can confirm that when you have your Nissan 370Z serviced at a Nissan dealership within its service schedule (12 months or 9,000 miles which ever comes first) your Nissan 370Z gets 12 months RAC Roadside Assistance. Every time you have your Nissan 370Z serviced at a Nissan dealership your Nissan 370Z will get another 12 months RAC Roadside Assistance cover. The RAC Roadside Assistance cover is registered to the vehicle itself and not the owner. Should you decide to sell the vehicle the RAC Roadside Assistance cover will go with the vehicle." Do you know if that covers EU matey, or is it just UK? Need to dig out my docs. Sure I heard someone say it was EU somewhere around here.

If you have the same as me (very likely) then you should be able to find where the bungee is terminated behind one of the anchors on the net. If you pull it out, you can pull some bungee through the ring securing it and then trim off the excess. Leaves the net a little loose, but after you put stuff under it, it works spot on

They definately have more bite to them. You soon get used to it, but certainly is a shock when you first get on the stoppers

Have you kept the ratio of front:rear rolling radius the same on the tyres? As they are not the same on the OEM setup the TCS and VDC will have this built in and if you outside its levels of tollerance on difference, it can cause it to trigger early as it thinks that the wheel is spinning faster or slower than it acutally is. I used to run non-OEM setup rolling radius on my old 350z which made it think the rear wheels were spinning slower than they actually were and it allowed me notably more wheelspin before TCS would kick in. VDC is a PITA on track, it always kicks in too early, but the car isnt a track car, so it *should* be safer on the road for the average Joe driver. Understeer is dialled into every road car that I've ever driven as its safer for most people most of the time.

Its the horizontal tonneau cover. Fairly useless with no fixings or indeed if you have no holes in the rear trim to attach it. If you have a UK car and its missing though, I guess it would be a good buy

TCS and VDC will only be effected by the wrong tyre rolling radius (front:back ratio most importantly) as it uses the speed of each wheel to decide if it is slipping in relation to the others. I doubt it will have any kind of grip level parameters in its algorithms, it will just be a try/catch situation where it tries to put more power to other wheels and waits for feedback. If any tyre has more/less grip than the others it will react to that based on speed sensors as this will allow it to cope with differing road conditions/surfaces too - which is what its designed for in the first place!

They are made by Akebono, same people who make the McLaren F1 brakes http://www.mclaren.com/page/akebono-1 I find my 370z has a bit more stopping power than my 350z had. The brakes seem stronger but not as progressive.

Cos they're bigger and better Dont think they would be a straight swap. Best place to look is the US forums, they will have tried this by now. Not sure they will clear all 18" wheels though as they are monsters! Not really worth the effort IMO, better off spending the money on 2 piece discs and good pads

Dependant on budget - intakes (drop in filters), HFCs and freer flowing exhaust (inc Y-pipe).

Correct. You can move onto a new contract of the same value or more very easily. Will mean a slight tweak to your minutes/txt combo most likely unless there is a directly comparable contract. Customer services will sort it out very quickly. That or if you jailbreak I think it enables it.

Looking good guys and gals. Weather looks a whole lot better than we got at the DTM@Brands, I think I should have come with you lot

Yeah they're ok mate, pretty well made TBH. From the outside they look very good. Its only when you open them up you can see corners have been cut, but still well worth the money. Just dont go out without any backup lights as they have been known to just die. Always take a spare to get you home, even if its just an LED head torch or something. As a comparison, the Magicshines we have are the 900 lumen and cost about £60ea. The Joysticks we have are so much better made, but just 300 lumen and cost about £120ea. The Joysticks are so much more robust and I'd epect them never to fail, whereas the Magicshine I expect to give up at some point. They run hot and kill batteries quite quick (being so powerful). The chargers for the Magicshine are also a bit pants and wouldnt leave one unattended unless it was in a fireproof bowl/dish.

Now now, play nice

Both AK and I (and Amanda and even Fran I think) have a set of the 900 lumen ones. They are a lot more expensive than we paid though - you used to be able to get Magicshines for about 50 quid. Be warned these are not Exposure or Hope quality lights, they are quite cheaply made so dont use them as your only source of light on a night ride. We have ours backed up with some 300 lumen Exposure Joysticks on our helmets

Thethering is what you need, should be supported if you phone is up to date. Will be over bluetooth on a 3GS http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3574

Looks similar to the systems that Nurrish did/does.

Not true I'm afraid - but does work in most cases. I know someone who works very closely to these systems and its down to the license that the people who run them buy. Basic system can be fooled by lane switching, but the more advance features can be bought which will spot it

Personally they would have to be really dirty for me to want to split them. Most (if not all) of the lights I've seen that have been split open in the past have condensation - not that I've seen any of Husky's so he may be able to work around that. Something to be very careful of.

I looked for a set of coilovers and couldnt find any that didnt drop the car at least 20mm. If you want better handling then thats the way to go if you are already going to do ARBs. Why not do the ARBs and bushes and see how it feels?