Ebized

As the Falkens have fairly soft side walls you might find raising the pressure above the 'standard' 35psi works better. I used to use about 37/38 in the 19" Falkens I had on the 350. Whether that suits 20" tyres I don't know as I guess the profile is lower so less sidewall. As being indicated above by others, experiment by gradually raising the pressures from 35 and trying on your favourite bit of road with a few demanding corners, which should reveal what suits

Even though you dad will do the service for free, if he wrote out an 'invoice' on his headed paper with the list/cost of parts used and noted at the bottom FOC - family member, I'm sure that would count for as much, if not more than a dealer/independent stamp, to a future discerning buyer.

Ken Block likes to do those, going backwards before the tyres finally bite for the forward momentum, but he's got two extra driven wheels to help

It is difficult to understand why a non GT is perceived as 'inferior' when as others have said the Bose gets replaced because it dosen't work well; cruise is rarely used and leather seats need to be looked after and we have seen so many look less than pristine after a few years as they don't wear so well as the cloth seats, unless really looked after. I suspect it is only the absence of the leather seats that is off-putting to those in the trade or potential purchasers who believe that is a must have. If you buy a non-GT car at a good price but have an eye on a future sale, watch for leather seats being offered for sale - they do come up from time to time on here, as well as from breakers. For what you would have to pay, some way down the line, you could can make a good saving now

Traders will have their fans and complainants. In the worse cases it has led to traders being excluded from here. At the end of the day the size of 'appreciation threads' speak for themselves. The team receives many messages from the 'silent majority' about excellent, good, not so good, to downright poor service, which generally reflects postings on here by members. When something has gone wrong we try to sort it out behind the scenes as experience has shown there is usually a good reason which does not need to get blown out of proportion. It should not come as a surprise then that when a trader who has been found to provide an excellent service by a large number of members up and down the country is then critisized by those known to support a competitor, they will defend their position. As I have come to see over many years on here, and given we are a national and international forum, unfortunately the language used often can be misunderstood, or perceived as being rude. ZMANALEX has single-handed probably kept more members cars on here going with spares and advice than all the other traders put together. And I understand we are not the only place he serves. No doubt his reputation is what irks some but at the end of the day that is what the vast majority of members rely on - recommendation, and why they vote for him with their wallets.

The Bullit GT Mustang - still one of the greatest chases with a soundtrack second to none

Quite impressed with the paint match - not perfect, but I now have no nasty chips showing

Chris`I has installed one viewtopic.php?f=103&t=43182&hilit=camera

+1 BBC Business Editor. The girlfriend can't stand him, it's something to do with the way he pronounces his words Your g/f is spot on - he comes on I switch over

A real brown trouser moment and as you say, thankfully those around missed you and the barriers decided not to accept your advances. Glad you are OK

Yes - the 500ml (the 400ml is an aerosol). Or if you want to do a whole wheel you can go for the 1lt You could probably use the aerosol if you wanted but it would require a lot of masking. I find the tin is good for very small scrapes because you can just use a small paint brush (like an artist's brush) to apply it. The paint is quite thick too, so it helps to hide any roughness (I'd recommend a very careful sanding of the damaged spot and some primer if the scrape has gone down into the metal). I did once try to self-repair quite a long scrape and wasn't happy with results so ended up getting the wheel refurbished. As a general rule I'd say if you've got a mark bigger than a few inches or which goes deeply into the metal go for a refurb. Even then, the paint is useful if you want to make it look a better while you wait for the refurb to be done. So far..... after 10k miles I have avoided kerb scrapes, but I do have a few chips from removing the wheel nuts - some my doing some by others, but also a few chips caused by stones being thrown around in the wheels (I will blame Wales for that ). So looking forward to the pot of "wheelpaints" to arrive and raiding the toothpick jar But the design of the 370 wheels are certainly more difficult than the 350 Rays to do DIY fixes for kerb scrapes. I try to avoid scrapes by parking on the driver's side (not always possible of course) and then carefully reversing towards the kerb from quite far out using the wing mirror to check my position. I'm sure the neighbours have a right laugh at me taking an age to park, but I don't care if it keeps the wheels in good nick. I suspect most of us do likewise - but I park on the passenger side when I can and have the pasenger mirror angled down so I can see the kerb by the wheel (saves adjusting the driver's mirror). I also put the steering on lock to use the tyre as a 'buffer' to find the kerb before final straightening. I'm touching wood as I write this BTW the paint arrived today - good service but spent half an hour unpacking it and removing the sellotape round the lid

The local cats are well looked after. They are so grateful to the perfect clawing mat in the form of a lovely roadster soft top - pure cats heaven. Afterwrds, its onto nice warm car bonnets to have a cosy nap and when that gets cold, up a level to the perfect roof look out to spot the next warm bed arriving. But its damn inconsiderate that shiny surfaces have to be clambered on and off meaning those nicely manicured claws get blunted requiring the whole process to start again. Good job plenty of paths are around to save little bums getting pricked going 'off piste' so calling cards can be left, all nicely cleaned away before for the next visit. And it is a good job that there are plenty of plants about which must be regularly sprayed to let potential invaders know it is their garden. Unfortuantely it all too often has to be repeated as some inconsiderate being has chosen to replace the dying plants, which of course must then be remarked. After all, it is their territory. But despite all that hardship, challenges to their lifestyle are welcomed - especially when someone, other than those that they save their purrs for, has gone to the expense and trouble to keep them entertained. Wow, what a life eh?

Have a great day Mark, many happy returns

050A's are not directional, unlike the Toyos for example.

You did not say what the tyres were that you had on the rear before the change. If they were not 050A's and more of a budget tyre their softer side walls may have something to do with the tramlining you are now getting as the 050A's have quite a stiff side wall and combined with the worn front tyres that is accentuating the different feel. I have found that once you get some good heat into 050A's the tramlining effect reduces. (Something that is more noticeable on the 370, than I found on the 350, as the front end is more sensitive) But to fully enjoy your car a new set of matching front tyres is a must

Yes - the 500ml (the 400ml is an aerosol). Or if you want to do a whole wheel you can go for the 1lt You could probably use the aerosol if you wanted but it would require a lot of masking. I find the tin is good for very small scrapes because you can just use a small paint brush (like an artist's brush) to apply it. The paint is quite thick too, so it helps to hide any roughness (I'd recommend a very careful sanding of the damaged spot and some primer if the scrape has gone down into the metal). I did once try to self-repair quite a long scrape and wasn't happy with results so ended up getting the wheel refurbished. As a general rule I'd say if you've got a mark bigger than a few inches or which goes deeply into the metal go for a refurb. Even then, the paint is useful if you want to make it look a better while you wait for the refurb to be done. So far..... after 10k miles I have avoided kerb scrapes, but I do have a few chips from removing the wheel nuts - some my doing some by others, but also a few chips caused by stones being thrown around in the wheels (I will blame Wales for that ). So looking forward to the pot of "wheelpaints" to arrive and raiding the toothpick jar But the design of the 370 wheels are certainly more difficult than the 350 Rays to do DIY fixes for kerb scrapes.

As of today the restriction on pms before 5 posts has been removed so problem solved for keviswatt. See here for changes: viewtopic.php?f=0&t=52618 as for the rest of you spamming his post, just off to have my tea before coming back to ban you lot (The lovely Vik excluded though ) and thread locked

I feel an avatar change is overdue

the lot of you apologies keviswatt, put it down to the school holidays

Yeah, lay off our ace mechanic you wanna-be footballer

We know why ££££££££££££££££££££££££££££££££££££££££££££££££££££££££££££

Like to see the outakes where he dosen't get it right, or the tyres let go. Massive skills though

Yes - the 500ml (the 400ml is an aerosol). Or if you want to do a whole wheel you can go for the 1lt