Olly350z

Dont panic boys, the armotek models are made completely from scaled steel armor. If memory serves there 1/6th king tiger weights about 200kg

It can do but its rare, you're more likely to damage them by cleaning them with chemicals or contamination. My particular windows tinters say dont use the demister for two weeks to let it properly adhere. Not had any issues either and I use it regularly

Thanks Dan, was just always brought up that its not a dumb question if you learn from it. Guess thats how we built my old engine and why it took so long with me fannying around lol. Just this is the one thing I dont enjoy is when it throws up issues because I dont have the knowledge of VQs to understand them fully. Like just where this low idle has come out of nowhere

Where in W Sussex are you Olly? Littlehampton bud, right on the coast. But happy to travel for some Zed days with fellow petrol heads!

I could try and tie it in with the fitting of the plenum spacer... Would make sense for both to be off and then could look to getting it remapped the following month, would give a good indication of the engine health...

Thanks everyone, especially TrickyRicky and Dan for putting up with my dumb questions, do wish some of you were more local to supervise me haha. I love learning but this thing has bitten me everytime So Im going to look for another MAF sensor, change the plugs and lastly a new battery in that order and see if that cures my low idle, how does that sound?

Given my current track record with this car and how its bitten me every time with engine lights when Ive attempted something, how much of a DIY job would you say this is along with cleaning the PVC? Have to be honest Im rather embarrassed by how this car has kicked my backside everytime compared to the old Hondas...

So I think I hadnt plugged the MAF back in properly from looking through the pictures I took before hand. So this morning I took it apart again, tripple checked everything then did the pedal dance to clear codes. Started it up and now no lights at all... So does that mean ive cleared them and its not detecting an error? If thats the case then its good but Im still left with this lower RPM idle, going to attempt idle reset tomorrow. What else could cause a low idle?

I thought a dodgy thermostat only caused overheating, not underheating? However for the sake of £50 maybe I'll just get it done anyway It can do either depending on which way its stuck, either open or closed. Easiest way to check if a thermostat is goosed is dangle it with some string in boiling water. Youll see if it opens or closes

Id like to know what way as well...

Its never dropped that low before with a shake to it thats the issue for cleaning the MAF. I only used carburettor cleaner as advised on the forums and no metal wires were touched :l Will get the code reader in the week and see what it says

Refitted the MAF sensor and as predicted all its done is made things worse. Im reaching the end of my tether with this car. Since bringing out of storage and the body shop I've had nothing but warning lights all week. It started with an ECU light, which was O2 sensors again because of HFCs. I do have spacers before anyone asks so switched them off for the time being. Following day I had the airbag warning light, again switched off. Ive had the traction light flicker on and off as well despite being in crawling traffic.The car then developed a low idle, sitting in traffic you could hear it popping and banging with an idle of 500rpm. Switching the aircon on helped bring this back up to 900rpm. Pulled the MAF sensor out and gave it a squirt with carburettor cleaner as recommended on the forum. Plugged it in today and this is whaI'mim greeted with. ECU light ESP light TRACTION light And a fluctuating idle. At a complete loss as to how all this has come since its A.) Sat in my garage and B.) fitted spacers. Bar the idle it was ok yesterday for a short period

I went for limo tint on the back of mine

Gave her a gentle bath today after a night of brake bedding in last night, my new wheels were black! I've also pulled the MAF sensor in an attempt to see if its whats causing my dodgy idle. Cant say I saw any obvious signs of contamination but then its so small I doubt the naked eye could see it Some pictures And a little present so we're all stocked up ready for some shows!

Well Ive pulled the MAF out today and given it a qood squirt with carburettor cleaner and its now sat on the window sill blotting off which Ill refit tomorrow. No obvious signs of contamination but then its so small I doubt the naked eye could pick it up Noticed ive got a leaky rocker cover again so im wondering if the plugs are wet. Think my next modification may be a new cover, god help my wallet

Most people just buy bumper mesh for there aftermarket bumper, thats what I did. Got it quite chunky so it didnt look like chicken coop wire

The rear 3 can have any amount of tint on, not a problem. As mentioned above the stock front windows have a factory fitted tint which is around 20-25%. This was confirmed by my window tinters so wouldn't advice anything on the front. Dont forget to declare them too!

That definitely a point to note, the drop has only occured SINCE changing the oil. Other then that its a consistent pressure whenever its used. Must also say that while Mark said it was Ok it was a visual and sound inspection, along with a bit of revving haha. Its no way a reflection on him or Abbey as they didnt even charge me Can I use brake cleaner on the MAF sensor? And any idea what this whoosing / sucking noise is everytime I brake?

Dan Im only theorising at the moment due to some of the issues, or concerns shall we say im having. Personally I feel that the 5w30 is very thin, its almost got the consistency of water. And I wonder if it is giving that protection once the engine is fully warmed up, on a long drive where it does get driven harder then pootling around town. What you must understand is that while Ive built my B18c after it died from oil pump failure, its taught me one thing, oil pressure is critical. Now moving onto VQ its an entirely different beast which I find daunting at times, no scratch that most of the time. Now from when I purchased the car and did an oil change I noticed a 10-15psi drop. As an example when cruising in 6th at 70mph / 2500rpm im only getting Id say 50psi indicated by the guage. On a hot idle after a drive id say its about 20psi. Different from when I purchased the car, so I can only assume it had a slightly thicker oil Now having been to Abbey, Mark said it was fine and one of the healthiest sounding he'd heard especially considering its an 04. Its now developed this lower RPM idle which in my head ive put down to a number of possible issues Plugs Coilpacks Maf sensor Vacuum leak Its obviously not been happy sat as its the third day and now the third dash light, now the wheel slip indicator. Noticed its coming on when light braking, as the Master Cylinder is making a sucking noise. All im after is brainstorming chap, Im not just going to go out and stick treacle in it haha

Yes ^

Yeah Rich had half a tank of vpower that friday night! Last oil change i believe it had Fusch titan pro, was definitely fully synthetic and bought from Opie Oils. I just believe its had a slightly thicker oil in it in the past. From dropping out what it came with ive lost maybe 10-15psi across the guage. I have to be honest I never knew about more indepth knowledge of the oil side, always thought 10w40 5w30 etc was the same. So what can I replace it with thats marginally thicker? Just marginally as I dont want to deviate too much from Nissans specifications

Evening everyone, or perhaps morning? So my Z has been sat for a number of months now but it finally came back on the road last friday. Ive noticed since then it has developed a low slightly rough idle. When fully warm it idles at 500rpm, with a slight cough and pop. Can feel the engine shaking slightly almost like it wants to cut out I should mention that it had its plugs changed 10K ago and the oil / filter changed around 2K ago. Any ideas on whats causing this? The car has always been run on Vpower and rarely driven hard, it has thrown a CEL every now and then but these have always been O2 codes due to the high flow cats. When you put the aircon on it idles fine at 900rpm like it should Also, I'm planning on another oil change soon, and would like to put a slightly thicker oil in for some piece of mind and added protection with rising temperatures. It does burn a little oil but not even near what nissan state. Can I have some recommendations for oil please All constructive advice welcome

Id be up for a swap but Id probably still want to put some cash your way or work something out, Ill be honest my K2 isnt the greatest fit. We've altered hangers so it no longer rubs anywhere as that was a night mare Before fitting of the high flow cats, it was a very deep burble like your K1. Normal driving there was no drone and even on WOT it wasnt really that loud With the high flow cats its become alot louder. Under normal driving its still very livable with with no drone. You can sit at 70mph and easily have a conversation. The one thing I dont like is at WOT its become very raspy Im looking for a K1 as Im hoping it wont be raspy and Id like to go louder. The high flow cats are japspeed as far as we're aware, they were second hand. Id say more then anything choice of high flow cat is the most important, look at either berk or ark, they have built in resonance chambers to help. But they're £500

Well today has sucked to be fair. Started off well with a drive down the alignment shop, which went brilliantly and the car felt awesome afterwards. Then it nose dived Started with the ECU light appearing, which I was 90% sure was the higj flow cats, which it was. Switched those off with the scanner only to get up the road and the airbag light decided to throw a wobbly, blinking away. So back down I went. Switched that off and then on the drive home was forced over in my right of way by a white van man and have managed to curb my 5 day old alloys. To top that off the car has developed a weird idle. When fully warm its idling at about 500rmp with the odd pop and splutter. Ahhhh. Any ideas about the idle guys? EDIT: Should probably mention its an O4 DE with 78K onnthe clock, last mini service only 2K ago. Im thinking about a slightly thicker oil and new plugs, any recommendations?

What price would you be looking for the K1 fella? Ive got a japspeed K2 and before I fitted HFCs it was a lovely deep rumble but has become very raspy now.